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p@ul250

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Posts posted by p@ul250
 
 
  1. Hi Ben

    No you will not need to bleed the brakes after changing the cover's. Just make certain that the reservoirs are level when you remove the old cap and have some water handy to rinse off any spills as soon as you have fitted the new one's. Brake fluid eats paint/plastics.

  2. I have come across a french blog about sidecar trials. It is packed with photos and chat about building outfits and can be found at " le-side-car-trial.allmyblog.com" It's very good ! and has certainly given me food for thought.

    Hope this is helpful. I have purchased a wheel for my side car project and drawn up some plans. I will start cutting steel next week.

  3. My son and I both ride 2011 Evo's and neither of us have had this problem. But a friend of mine has! In my own opinion it's down to the pads used ( we use Galfer) and how you ride. I tend to have my toe on the brake pedal and I think this stops mud knocking back the pads/pistons.

    As for the pedal/lever catching, Have a close look at the Top Hat bearing/bush. I have had part of the lip/rim brake off and this led to the type of catching you have described.

    I hope this helps

  4. Hi Rob

    I used at kit from Tank care products www.tankcareproducts.co.uk It came with a very powerful detergent plus an acetone like cleaner, Two pack epoxy liner and full instructions. all for under £50. It seams to work OK so far.

  5. Cheers Rob

    As you can see your bike is a little lower in it's numbers than mine by 545 on the engine and by 538 on the frame. I wonder if they came over in the same batch?

  6. Woody

    I wonder whether Bultaco carried over the old style top yoke for some time on the Mk3 Model 49. I also have one and it also has the top yoke with U bolts. When I got the bike it had stood in a shed in the High Lands of Scotland for thirty years. Mine has engine number M-4903170 and frame number B-4903144. The bike was complete and very unmolested,even still having the triangular silencer in place when I got it. Oily's bike is a dead ringer for the one I have. Would love to know how close the numbers are ?

    Paul

  7. The add is at www.trialsads.com/listing/1649/1969-bultaco-sherpa-html Hope that helps if not go www.trialsads.com >browse>for sale>Motorised trials bikes for sale. and look at page three.

  8. Air box is open topped, there should be a perforated plate, a flat foam filter and a wire spring thing to hold them down. The seat base should be glass fiber and wood. But they do look like they are home made. Don't bother with getting the triangular silencer they make the bike run like sh-t.To much back pressure! I'm at sea at the moment but will be home at the weekend. I will take some photos of the side stand and the old foot pegs that I have in the work shop.

    P M me your email address if you wish and I can send you photos direct. Have you had a look at the photos I have in the add? my bike started out in about the same state as your's

  9. The plate's look like the original one's. But the pegs that are welded on are not correct. Best thing to do is get a set of pegs/mounts from Bultaco UK and weld them on to the plates in place of of them. I was watching that bike on ebay as I also have a M49. If you have a look at the Adds on this web site you will see how mine looks.

    Bultaco UK will have most of the parts you need. But the side stand is like hen's teeth. In the end I had to make one.

    Good Luck with the rebuild.

  10. Karl

    The air box mod's In this stream really do make a big difference to the throttle responce and the bike really revs out.

    I find that the best thing to do when the bike's been dropped is to hold the throttle wide open and kick it over three or four times before trying to start it. Also check out the float and float needle,our bike was a pig to start hot after a spill and would some times just cut out usually just as joshua was called into a section. In the end i found that the float didn't float! As it had absorbet petrol over the years. I now drain the carb when the bike is put away.

    Paul

  11. Hi Karl

    The talon ref No isTR370-60T-415. Talons phone No is 01935 471508. I also had to replace the spocket gard (the one under the swinging arm) i fitted a SHARKFIN from <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> (<mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central>) at

  12. Hi Tony

    Yes have done ,one of the first things i did with the bike when my son started rideing two years ago was stick a 60 tooth sprocket from tallon on.

    I've also carred out the air box lid mods i found in your other post/steam on carb flooding and can recomend them.

    Has eny one out there found a source in the UK for the VEE-RUBBER or HUTCHINS 2ply tyres that tony recomended elswear?

    regards Paul

  13. Tony thanks for the quick responce. :D I`ve now had the clutch apart and fitted one extra plate, just not had time to try it out yet! I`ll let you know how it go`s. I hope the seurgery went well and you`r feet up agen soon :wacko::D

  14. I have ordered a couple of parts from GasGas to convert my sons GG50 to a full manual clutch.

    MIT 50032064 2mm Steel Clutch Disc

    MIT 50032052 1.5mm Steel Clutch Disc

    While I have not converted the clutch yet, seems like it will work fine.

    I'll let you guys know next week.

    By adding one or both of these plates to the clutch pack you will basically take out the slack needed for the steel balls to "ramp up" and engauge the auto clutch. (I'm sure that made no sense at all!)

    Hi Tonyp884

    Ive also ordered the parts you have and would like to Know, do you remove the balls from the clutch pack when you add the disc/discs?

    reggards p@ul

 
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