PAULIE

Im building some now... [url=https://postimg.cc/xcN6FLMp][img]https://i.postimg.cc/BQMRbg63/IMG-0183.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://postimg.cc/0rBtfVMJ][img]https://i.postimg.cc/Wb2QsKsS/IMG-0186.jpg[/img][/url]

My VIN didnt have a match either. For a 2012 model the 10th charachter should be a "B" if it was made in late 2011or a "C" if made in early 2012.

Avoid buying an obscure bike. I was eyeing this 90's Fantic near me because it is clean, very low $ and approriate for the basic plonking I do but research revealed parts availablity is almost nil. I then bought a '10 EVO and although it is considered ancient (as far as EVO's go) I'm very happy with it.

What was found to be the issue?

I'd say a Beta EVO of any year because the model has had a long run without major changes. Some might say this is a bad thing but it results in tons of knowledge and great parts availability. It's surprising how many parts from the years 2009 - 2022 are the same.

Suspension is too soft for my 240lb so in goes some stiffer springs. 85N/mm is the grey ...and a little bling on the way home

The clutch works fine when moving so I'll live with it. When cold with engine off I put it in 4th, pull in clutch and break it free with a hand turn of the wheel

There wasn't a ton of play so I added only one .005" (.12mm) shim. Rode it today and it drags just the same.

I'm not good enough of a rider to notice the age difference Even a much older bike would suffice but the parts are too hard to obtain now.

Had a 2020 GG 280 and now a 2010 Evo 290 (Oh the HORROR!) Even though its a lot older I like it better. Starts easier and the power is more friendly A 250 Factory would be the bees knees Someday

With a cold engine, when I plug the jumper into the connector fan comes on and when unplugged it turns off. With engine warmed up it works as it should cycling on and off so it seems good.

remove this cover Starting from the thermo sensor on radiator, trace the wires back to the connector under the cover you just removed. Fab a jumper cable and disconnect the connector. Start bike up and plug jumper into the connector end that is coming from the CDI box near the carb area. If fan does not turn on the fan and/or thermo sensor might be in need of replacement

Last week's test ride revealed a good amount of clutch drag. It's just enough that neutral cannot selected at idle. Going to check the actuator free-play first and shim if necessary ("the mod"). Then the plates and basket

Interested in feeling how this changes things...

Congrats, start a thread! Wheel bearings are easy out and in.

The manual of an '07 Rev calls for a BR7ES. I wonder why they changed. The tip of "P" plug extends into the combustion chamber thus taking up space and raising the compression ratio some. Maybe that was what they wanted.

Just went through a lot of this same stuff on my new bike. It amazes me how people can let their machines go. I have successfully used both a vice and a hydraulic press to install bearings. With a proper sized socket doing the pushing of course.

Congrats on your new machine!

This morning, enlarged the pinch point gap of the shift lever, installed rear bearings and changed the trans oil. Only 400ML overfilled it past the window so had to drain some. No signs of water. With it on 2 wheels again took it outside to feel the suspension. Both ends need some add'l preload for my weight. Next up up is adding coolant and taking a test ride! The f.d. gearing is 11/40 which sounds fast but we'll see.

Repacked the silencer with the Jitsie stuff and replaced front wheel bearings and tire

Indeed. I searched for other modern trials bike dyno graphs but came up with nothing.

Thanks. I believe it is a 2010 because the radiator fill is in the front. 2009's had the radiator fill behind the radiator and off to the side.

I would have guessed a 300 made well over 20 but it's not even close. The graphs show how differently trials-specific engines are tuned compared to their MX and Enduro cousins. And given these numbers, it seems crazy how 300's are often considered to be too much for the average rider.

New impeller and hoses cleaned and regreased swingarm and steering, and new oil in forks (to 120/60 heights) Removed/inspected carb and it was spotless inside. WD40 and a toothbrush work great at cleaning things... new Dunlop mounted and fender attached using threaded plastic buttons. Will switch to zip ties if they dont hold Next is replacing F&R wheel bearings, mounting the front tire, new Dot 4 in all the lines, coolant and trans oil.

Came across this EVO while searching for a new bike/winter project. It needs lots of attention but it runs great! Initial purchase pics and what has been done so far... The tires have 2014 date codes and are pretty hard, especially this Vee Air filter was filtering/hanging on for dear life and ready to fall apart...got to it just in time She is a 290. The cylinder bore looks fine and a quick peek through the exhaust port revealed no scuffing on the piston so the jug is not coming off