Wouldnt mind hearing what the problems are. Bet some of us could help.
Aaron
Something was wrong with the primary gears.It was making a knocking noise and vibrated pretty bad when the clutch was let out. I was very discouraged because my bike was damaged during shipping and then after riding it twice it sounded like a freight train. I took the bike back to Don Hubbard and it has been repaired in less than a week. I figured it was going to take a month of dicking around before they would send a new primary set. I am pleased with the way this was handled by everyone involved.
I left the bolts out. They're in my toolbox next to my jet kit. I ordered an '08 but it won't be in for a month so I can't tell you if they have the same issues as my 05. Only way to know is to pull out the clutch pack and look at the tabs on the fiber plates. If they have the rough finish polish them, clean them and put them back and it's a world of difference. Don't just remove two springs without polishing the tabs. That would be a colossal mistake. My theory is the heavier springs are a stop gap fix for the poor bearing surfaces on the fiber plate tabs. If I'm correct then just removing the springs without polishing the tabs will cause clutch slippage.
I've been riding for two years now with four springs and the clutch shows no slippage yet. I thought I felt some yesterday but it was a patch of ice. I'm about 220lbs and ride the clutch constantly It is soooooo good now and my clutch finger doesn't get tired after four hours of riding unlike the the stock clutch. There is one thing that you may find with the clutch and that is the oil is particularly important to the engagement characteristics. A lot of guys will tell you to use automatic transmission fluid. I tried that once in a Beta and the clutch was so grabby it was almost impossible to ride. I use Spectro Golden-Gear oil now and I love the clutch on my '05. After you get a few hours on the bike for break in you might want to change out the gear oil. Sorry to say that if it is the gear oil making your clutch grabby it will take a few oil changes to purge the gearbox of the bad oil.
It's too bad you're not in my neighborhood. I'd have that clutch pack out of your bike and you lovin' that machine in no time. Let me know how it goes and If I can be of any help.
Dan
Dan, my bike started knocking so loud I took it to the Dealer to get repaired. Did you dress both sides of the tab or just the side that gets pushed on under load? I took mine apart on sunday and dressed just one side and cleaned out the glue between the friction pads, but it was making so much noise it was making me sick. The dealer has assured me that it is going to me made right.
Moto Tassani VForce3 carbon fiber reeds. I have them on my '05 and they really smooth out the grunt at the low revs. Makes it much easier to pull higher gears when going really slow.
The other thing I did to my Beta and I'm not sure if they've fixed this on the '08s or not was to pull out the clutch pack and dress the tabs on the fiber plates. Beta clutches have always been sticky and used large springs. That was a mystery to me until I decided to figure out why the Beta clutch was such a bear. When I pulled the clutch out and visually inspected the plates under a microscope I was horrified.
These are photos of the fiber plate tabs with about three months of wear in. Essentially these are bearing surfaces that must slide to engage and disengage the clutch. It's apparent that these are forged but not dressing the tabs leaves an uneven surface. When the clutch is engaged these ridges are driven into the side of the clutch basket slots grabbing as they go. This causes the clutch to slip. as more power is fed to the clutch more side torque drives these ridges harder into the basket. The green between the ridges is residual adhesive from the fiber material. The fix that has been used is heavier springs to force the plates to slide together. On the opposite end when the clutch is disengaged the plates don't have the heavier spring pressure to push them apart so the plates stick together because of the side torque. This also makes the release much more sudden then it should be as a moment with the engine torque released will allow the plates to separate suddenly. The other issues caused by this is uneven wear of the clutch basket so even replacing the plates may not fix it on an older bike where the plates and basket have worn into each other.
What I did to my bike was pull the clutch pack out and dress the ends of the tabs with a jeweler's file. (every toolbox should have a set) and then polish with a polishing stone. I used a Dremel tool but a hand stone will work just fine. Wash the plates thoroughly before putting the clutch pack back in. Soapy water works fine just make sure you rinse all the soap off as a last step so it doesn't damage the tranny oil.
I left out two clutch springs on mine and have been riding the bike almost every weekend (except winter) for two years. No clutch slip and the engagement is super smooth and consistent and I weigh around 235lbs and really beat on the clutch. It's worth it for any Beta owner to pull the clutch pack and have a look.
Dan
Dan, when you left 2 springs out, did you put the bolts in or leave them outs as well? My '08 270 clutch is inconsistant and grabby also chatters/chudders and is about as noisy as a Ducati dry clutch with the cover off. It also vibrates to beat hell. I just got the bike and have only ridden it twice. I'm not too happy about it either. Thanks,
Thank you for taking the time to get those pics. I'd have to say without closer inspection the WR250 is the source of the SY250F motor. Might be easy to do the swap. As far as the 125 goes, the 200 would be a waste since I would be building an electric start vesion anyway and I'd source the BBR parts to make it happen.
Man, I have a lot of research to do...
I've never ridden an SY250f or a WR250, however, the gearing is probably going to be a major problem. Traditional trials gearing puts the first 3 gears close togather and 1st gear is pretty low, 4th gear is a large leap from 3rd and 5th is like a normal wide ratio from 4th. The cam profiles are way different, the Sy is going to have little or no overlap for max low end. The carb is also completely different one of the main differences is that a trials motor uses a small throat bore to keep air flow velocity high at low rpm. A WR/YZ motor is a screamer with a rev limit at around 13K an SY is probably going to give out about halfway there due to cam profile and carb flow limits. You might be better off buying 2 bikes and swapping motors. Like I said before I really don't know the specifics of either machine just generalities. Of course you may have known all this already.
You rode Don Hubbard's then. He and I have been back and forth, in emails, discussing the fine points of the bikes. I believe that his, and mine, are the only 08 models in Texas. Danny, at MotoMex, has one of the two 07 models for sale, at a discounted price, since it is used. If you interested, you might go that route, and spend a little less.
I ordered an '08 270, we'll see how I like it. I'm looking forward to riding it at Rio. The next couple of years will be interesting to see how the 4 strokes develop.
Double "D'OH" because the Beta is the right choice!
After so many years on Scorpa, it was tough to consider changing brands. I loved all my Scorpa, and they are great bikes. But, when it comes to the 4-stroke, my SY250F wasn't in the same league as my new Beta Rev-4T. Smaller, lighter, better power, better handling, better turning radius, better build quality, better clutch action, etc. The only complaint I have about the bike is the horrid ratchet noise the kickstarter makes, until you get your foot off the lever, after the engine starts. You kick the bike, it fires up, and you swear parts are about to fly out of the engine. Then, you let the kickstart lever return to it's normal position, and all is well.
I got to ride the bike that came to Austin. The power delivery is much smoother than a 4RT, and it did feel to be about half the size. I didn't notice any excessive starter gear noise, but my 315R makes quite a bit of racket so I may just be used to it. I really liked the bike, but it cost just a little too much for me to spend. You gonna have fun though!
Is it worth the extra money for an '08? I there any difference besides the carb and plastics? It may be worth it for resale value alone. Anyone out there who's had both I'd like to hear from you. Or should I buy a an '06 Sherco at half the price?
I am wondering if the new 250 fi is going to go to trials, I think it might if it proves reliable. I believe the 5 valve engine to be a good design, I have a WR400F and like it. But four valves are probably enough. I haven't seen the new 250 and don't know the weight comparison between the two. What do ya'll think/know?
Neil King
The new WR250X and WR250R from Yamaha with EFI run the same 4-valve motor.
Personally, I'd like to see a sidevalve two-valve trials motor, as it would lower the center of gravity of the bike. We certainly don't need twin cams and four valves given the rev range of a trials bike.
Isn't that what the gasgas 4t is supposed to be? I think that 4 overhead valves was a great advancement for a single cylinder engine, and multiple cylinder engines for that matter. Kind of like the reed valve for 2 strokes.
I am wondering if the new 250 fi is going to go to trials, I think it might if it proves reliable. I believe the 5 valve engine to be a good design, I have a WR400F and like it. But four valves are probably enough. I haven't seen the new 250 and don't know the weight comparison between the two. What do ya'll think/know?
Checked the timing, it was in the middle position, advanced it to maximum, somewhat better. How can you tell which flywheel? I was thinking the same, maybe time for a top end kit, just haven't ridden these for years, the only thing I can compare to is my last bike, 03 yz450F, and I don't think they are in the same category.
Try keeping that 450 in a section, you'll find that an underpowerd 250 works better. Try taking that 450 up a 30deg hill with mutiple 2' steps. You can come out alive on the underpowered 250, multiple broken bones on the 450( at least I would). No they are not in the same catagory, I bet that 450 is fun to ride though.
Hi guys, ive sold the enduro bike and got myself a 2000 montesa 315r! Went out on it yesterday for the first time and it was wicked! Got some probs with the old girl tho, its running like a bag of nails!?!? Its hunting on tick over and stalls, wont really rev either! Have taken the carb off and will give it a clean tomorrow, have cleaned the air filter to.. I no nothing about this bike, has anyone got any info on carb settings, what mixture to run it on, what gear oil to use and how much?? is there a manual i can download fom anywhere! Need a cheap helmet to if anyone knows where to get one?? I am lovin the trials my only regret s not selling the expensive KTM sooner! Everyone should have some trials iron in the garage! Thanks in advance!
Acdelco, sounds like your bike is doing the normal clogged slow jet lean surge. I've had my '00 315r for a year now. The slow jet clogged very easily, I must have cleaned that carb 5 times the first month. Stock setting on the air screw is 1 turn out. If the jet is partialy clogged turning the screw in all the way will help. I ended up drilling the jet out with a small jet bit. It was a lot better but still clogged again, so I drilled another size larger and all has been well. But the screw is 2 and a half turns out. Another thing to check is the o-ring on the air adjustment screw, if it is cracked it will leak causing the same problem as a clogged jet. Elf 740 oil is the best for the gear box, it is expensive but the clutch might actually work. I didn't sell my enduro (wr 400) but I don't ride it very often since I started trials. If you don't have knee/shin guards get some and don't ride without them. Every time I ride without them I land on my knee or shin on a rock. So far every time I think I've gotten better than the bike I learn that with the proper technique the bike will do what it is suppossed to do. Have fun!
I've done manual labor most of my life, so I'm in fair shape. I used to play racketball years ago, trials riding gets my heart beating just as good as racketball. When I'm practicing by myself, I don't rest as often as when I'm with someone. Wrestling the bike trying not to fall down, falling anyway, picking myself and the bike up, that gets my heart going.
Well............. get a damn bike and get crackin or as in my case wrecking. Wondering what bike to get? If you have a lot of money, get a new one. Or like me(that means no money), get the cheapest thing you can find. Want to know what class to start in? Anyone crazy enough to ride in a sidecar need to start in the master class!!!!!
It's obviously not rocket science but there must be a systematic approach to getting it just how you want it and if everyone rides them standard why bother making them adjustable?
I feel that a systematic approach is easiest to do if you start at one end of the spectrum and work your way to the other end. The less rebound dampening you have, the easier it is going to be to hop, and harder to control on rocks and logs plus cause traction problems. So, you might want to start with as little dampening as possible and move up from there. But first you will want to set the preload to where you want it, then make the rebound adjustments.
I'm about 220lbs and ride the clutch constantly It is soooooo good now and my clutch finger doesn't get tired after four hours of riding unlike the the stock clutch. There is one thing that you may find with the clutch and that is the oil is particularly important to the engagement characteristics. A lot of guys will tell you to use automatic transmission fluid. I tried that once in a Beta and the clutch was so grabby it was almost impossible to ride. I use Spectro Golden-Gear oil now and I love the clutch on my '05. After you get a few hours on the bike for break in you might want to change out the gear oil. Sorry to say that if it is the gear oil making your clutch grabby it will take a few oil changes to purge the gearbox of the bad oil.
315 Bars Etc
in Montesa
Posted
I put on an SE atv mid bend and like them.