hello! just thought i would share a picture of my bsa b40. been in my family for 20 years and i know 2 of the previous owners. just got it back from having some essential modifications. see if you can spot the obvious ones! I would love to start doing some 'miller' rounds or perhaps traditional trials rounds, but need to register it........... any pointers will be very much appreciated. cheers
the rubber nipple is sticking on my whatever jet, preventing fuel from filling the bowl of the carb.....it gets stuck at the top. i tried freeing it off with petrol and the like but it doesnt work. it runs, ( the bike that is) then sticks again preventing fuel from filling the carb. can you replace this part?? the rubber part (nipple) does look worn and seems to be the cause of the prob but is it replaceable? and what is it called ?? if you can figure what i am trying to describe
NB do not use solvents to clean carbs because i am sure that is the cause
When i got the bike it did have a full kick,its because of the kicking back the problem with the kick start has come about. It has lost some of its stroke when you kick it, and if you bring your foot up fast and go for another fast kick its just slips. The stator has apparently been checked and repaired,sparks same place every time? A friend of mine has a 08 290 and kicks it gently,2nd or 3rd kick it starts. Do 250's kick back? When i kick it over it seems to have a lot of compression.
A worry i have is that if i sort the kickstart problem and it still kicks back,it will damage it again. Another idea was to swap stators with my friends 08,also check timing with a strobe.
hi mate mine does all the things u describe.... kicking back major bangs through misfire if doesnt start?? slips gears on second kick! quirks of a sherco i guess i have an 08 250..... do what B40 bloke says engage kick start gear and kick it harder!!! bye j:)
Try a truck tyre specialist. They have large patches with built in plugs. A bit like a dog turd made of rubber with a base on it.
Works for me every time.
which is also the same as a car repair............ not sure about n the side wall tho might not hold..... try a car patch... works same as cycle but stronger good luck! shame to chuck good rubber as it is so expensive
last saturday night my lock up garage was broken into and both of my daughters' motorcycles were stolen, she is heartbroken. One is a pw80 the pink and white version and in mint condition and the other was a ty80 runner but tatty...... have frame no's if i get any leads. shame but they must of been a bit stupid because they left the more expensive B40 behind??? just lucky my gasser wasn't in there too! but they cut off four big security padlocks from each corner of the door and then broke it off the runners..... any suggestions to what i can do to the next one i get to keep the thieving scumbags out??? i have decided not to keep that one after that. thanks in advance for any replies
should be riding.....depends whether i go and watch scott or not. if no scott (i.e. too much rain for the mrs....or me for that matter!) then i will be marking out saturday too. see you there!
funny as! i do stuff like that all the time, did the job this morning. had to saw the end off the twist grip tho.....bit unorthodox i think but did the trick! works and looks as it should, see if it's ok after i drop it a few times. many thanks. james
Just fitted new grips and then tried to fit some bar end plugs.....how do u fit it properly on the throttle side as to not affect throttle operation? i have been scratching my head for too long now and am lost, probably a simple solution but i can't think any more and gonna take them off and buy some new grips again! many thanks in advance, james
I have just bought a 125 forward kick Fantic twin shock, which I now want to make into a 200 model. What other parts do I require apart from the barrel, piston and head is it possible to remachine the squish in the head instead of getting one off a 200, if so what are the dimension etc. Any help with flywheel wieghts, carb settings, and igniton setting would be greatfully received. Finally what about the exhaust. Note this bike has the Fantic engine and not the Minerelli one.
I believe Mike Hann used to modify these bikes back in the 80's, does anyone have the details of what he did to them
Thanks
hi.... i don't know the exact ins and outs of all this work, but i rode a 125 framed fantic with a 156 engine and running gear and thought it was horrible, but then u might prefer it. they are completely different to the 200's and if that is the engine u would prefer try riding a 200...u will be amazed at the difference. surely buying a 200 is a lot easier and not all that expensive either. where abouts in the country are u? if u r near i'm sure u can come have a go on both, hope this helps j:) haha just noticed ur in fife! oh well.... best of luck
does any one know where i can get some new or recon calipers or new seals for my brembo calipers for my tyz? front bleed nipple is seized and rear has blown a seal, any help most appreciated. thanks
You should be able to make a flywheel puller fairly easily. From memory, assuming yours is the purple wheeled model, you need a strong plate of metal (ie, one that won't bend under strain) drill a centre hole and tap a thread in it to take a bolt which will screw up against the crankshaft. Ideally, taper the end of it so it doesn't damage the crankshaft thread. Drill 3 8mm in a triangle around the centre hole to match the three holes with 8mm threads that are in the flywheel. Put three equal length 8mm bolts trhough the holes and screw them into the flywheel. Be very careful not to screw them too far into the flywheel as if they protrude through the other side they will wreck the coil windings if you turn the flywheel. Screw the centre bolt through the centre hole and keep on until it touches the end of the crank. Keep on tightening and the metal plate will be pulled backwards away from the flywheel until it comes up against the bolt heads. Keep on tightening the centre bolt and it should pull off the flywheel. It helps to keep tapping the flywheel with a hide or copper mallet when it is under tension to shock it free as if it has never been off it will be very tight.
You'll have to work out lengths of bolts etc. The centre bolt needs to be longer than the other 3 and needs to be a strong enough thread that it won't strip, so 10 - 12mm? and the plate should be 8mm thich as a minimum? Similarly, the 8mm bolts need to be screwed into the flywheel far enough that they won't pull out of the threads under load, but not too far in for the reason above.
This is from memory as it was a long time ago that I made one for mine and have no idea where it is now, but it should give you the idea of what to do.
If you are going to buy one, there were 3 different flywheels fitted during the production run of the TYZ and they all take different pullers, so make sure you give the dealer the engine number so you get the right one.
Thanks woody that should keep me busy for a while cheers.
Hello people! i need some desperate help....i'm stripping my bike to change the crank shaft oil seals, i think that is what is wrong with it anyway??? (it's oiling up in the cylinder and killing spark plugs!) i can't get the flywheel off, do i need a special tool and if yes where do i get one! any advice would be of great assistance! the sooner it is fixed the sooner i can ride again!!!! cheers james.
Unless you are made of money, don't pull anything apart till you know what is wrong with your Z.
You need a much better diagnosis. I'll try and help. First off you need to describe the symptoms much more clearly. Why do you think it is "oiling up the cylinder" and what do you mean by killing spark plugs? There are many reasons for losing spark and changing the crank seals is probably the last on the suspect list and the most expensive to do.
If your crank seal on the clutch side has failed, gearbox oil will be getting sucked into the engine so you can easily diagnose this by the gearbox oil level going down with use and the exhaust gas being very smoky and smelling unusual.
Your spark problems may be something much easier to fix so how about some better information about what is happening with the bike.
basically when laboured it will rev up and then deteriorate until engine has stopped....then not start again until i have put a new plug in it and fine for a while then same again....and again lol on inspection plugs are black and very sooty and wet....smell not like fuel too. not sure bout smell of smoke i'm always at the not smelly end but it definately smokes! lots when laboured. haven't measured the oil so not sure about that...is that enough? cheers oh yeah and definately not made of money otherwise would pay someone else to do it or have a new bike! lol
You will need the specific flywheel extractor for this bike. I have not worked on a TYZ so can not comment on the exact nature. The flywheel (magneto) is located on a tapered shaft with a woodruff key, an extractor is needed to break the taper.
As for the oiling up - this would usually occur if the fuel/oil ratio was too oil rich, or the carb was letting in too much fuel, or the exhaust/silencer system was choked or the bore was really worn out or the clutch side crankshaft oil seal was passing - in which case you would not need to remove the flywheel. Bit hard to sort out without seeing the bike.
Bye, PeterB.
cheers peter, well fuel mix has been spot on; and i did wonder about the fuel and air mix but don't know the right settings or which screws do what! i haven't got a manual! some people can do it by ear but i can't, well not with 2 stroke n e ways. clutch side is off, waiting for delivery of the new seals just thought it best do both, any more thoughts please let me know cheers, james
Hello people! i need some desperate help....i'm stripping my bike to change the crank shaft oil seals, i think that is what is wrong with it anyway??? (it's oiling up in the cylinder and killing spark plugs!) i can't get the flywheel off, do i need a special tool and if yes where do i get one! any advice would be of great assistance! the sooner it is fixed the sooner i can ride again!!!! cheers james.
as it is so expensive
bsa b40
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
hello! just thought i would share a picture of my bsa b40. been in my family for 20 years and i know 2 of the previous owners. just got it back from having some essential modifications. see if you can spot the obvious ones! I would love to start doing some 'miller' rounds or perhaps traditional trials rounds, but need to register it........... any pointers will be very much appreciated. cheers