The 315 and 4RT footpeg brackets are definitely different. Bent my 4RT ones and even though 315 brackets look the same, they aren't. Ended up with Jitsie brackets (10mm back) and Raptor footpegs (10mm lower). I thought the bars were too low as well so put on some 5-1/2" rise trials bars. Had on 4-1/2" rise before I changed. What a difference they made. Also rolled them forwards a bit more as I was feeling too cramped on the bike (I'm not that tall!). Most of the time you are not standing straight when you ride (more crouched) so you don't want to go too high with the bars.
I have run a top quality motocross chain on my 4RT for almost three years of two weekly rides. Is not even half way to it's service limit so has been good value (was almost 3 times the price of a 'cheap' chain). Saying that, will probably look at the DID VT2 x-ring chain when this one has worn out. I imagine that will last even longer with very little maintenance for the small increase in price. The VT2 is a narrow x-ring and will fit the 4RT with no modifications (unlike o-rings which are wider). The VT2 is claimed not to have the extra drag of the o-ring chains.
Cover is available here and not too bad pricewise. Should have the new one in a day or two but will have the hole welded up with a patch to use as a spare. Hopefully clamping it before welding will prevent the warpage ... will seek the welders opinion.
Managed to put a hole in my 4RTs clutch cover today Will price up a new one but suspect they won't be in stock. Anyone know for certain if they are aluminium and therefore weldable?
I use 10 weight mineral hydraulic oil for the gearbox/clutch on my 4RT after the price of the ELF oil went up to $82 NZ per litre (hydraiulic oil = $32 fr 4 litres). This oil meets CAT.3 specifications.
Tried ATF initially, some clutch grabbing when cold but OK once warm. Hydraulic fluid seems just as good as the ELF. Reading the specs, is designed for complex geartrain and clutch systems ... sounds good to me. Was recomended to me by PeterB on this site who has been using it for years in his GAsGas with no issues. I will continue to use it.
I replaced all the suspension bearings (they are needle rollers) and packed them with a good quality grease. I pull it all apart and regrease every 6 months and so far, hasn't needed it. The bike does go through water deep enough to cover these parts on occasion. Bought the bike second hand (2 years old) and the needles rollers were all rusty and siezed so maintenance is they key. About 30 minutes to remove rear wheel. pull apart, regrease and reassemble.
I only use the ELF oil as recommended by Montesa ... works very well. Is more expensive but I change it ever 30 hours (longer than recommended) and haven't had any issues. It comes out as clear as it goes in.
Helped a friend prepare a Montesa 248 twin shock for sale. Waterblasted it so it looked lovely, then coasted it down into the garage. Having only ever had my 4RT, I didn't know about old trials bike. No brakes when wet ... demolished a lawn chair and ended up parked on top of the trailer. Only injury the lawn chair but will stick with 4RT brakes.
I have the Jitsie hangers on a 4RT. Slightly back and seem a bit lower with the Raptor pegs. Position suits me but not all that noticable. I do really like the kickstart now clearing the footpeg - used to have Hebos on the standard hangers and the kickstart didn't clear them. 10mm back may provide extra leverage on the frame but I can't see it being an issue. The frame and hangers certainly look strong enough. 315R and 4RT hangers look similar but are different ... I know, I tried.
I used HEBO stainless pegs for a while on my 4RT - as mentioned, the kickstart does touch them but nevertheless, much better than the original pegs. Have now gone to Raptors on Jitsie (10mm back) hangers. The Raptors sit a little lower and for me are very comfortable.
Bought a 315 master cylinder when I bought my used 2005 4RT ... didn't fit it till about 8 months down the track. Definitely a difference. Easier clutch pull and more progressive engagement. Possibly harder to start in gear but I never do anyway so no problem. Glad I did it.
Have just fitted a Jitsie DB killer to my Montesa 4RT ... has noticibly reduced the noise. The exhaust note is deeper now and there is less of the Montesa 'bark' when revved. Power completely unaffected (the DB killer replaces the rear restrictor on the bike and doesn't work by strangling the exhaust).
Was just looking at my chain last week and thinking the 08's have a different chain to previous years because mine isn't stretching nearly as much as they used too.
Anyway be careful fitting larger snail cams, they are thicker and don't allow the spindle to go through the nut as far as the original adjusters, moving the screw in the original adjusters is the way forward ....and it's a lot cheaper, or buy a new chain with what you save on new snail cams
V-Mar has snail cams specifically for Montesas - they are machined so they allow full axle nut engagement. Have some - they are very nice (and always instal so they are pointing up).
Further to Tim's reply, trials in NZ are run under a licensing scheme which covers insurance requirements (especially for farmers good enough to allow their land use). Day licenses are available. There are bikes available to hire if required. As Tim says, plenty of events this year, basically every weekend. Should be fun.
your reading them wrong im afraid , hl isnt zeros it is the power map on that disc. 250 is the std map all zeros, ex is exh restictors , ha is altitude,ml is the soft one. if you read the manual it tells you
Thanks Munch,
Printed out the manual this morning and see what you are saying. Will try the ml map and see what I think.
Just bought a HRC programmable throttle body ... came with a CD with 4 maps on it. They are 05rtlex0, 05rtlha0, 05rtlhl0, and 05rtlml0. All ep2 files. the "hl" is obviously standard (everything 0) and the "ex" looks like the extra power map (lots of pluses) but anyone know what the other two ("ha" and "ml") are like?
Want a softer response off idle but happy with mid and top end as they are? Or can anyone recommend a good clubman map?
Sounds like a good product. Does it also act as anti-freeze in the winter? Are there any draw backs when the weather becomes cold do you know?
Is added to the engine oil so can't see how it would act as an antifreeze. Intend sticking with the 50:50 coolant/water even though this company does a coolant. Also not keen to use it in the gearbox/clutch which they say it can be used for. (reports of it stopping clutches burning). Not adding anything to the ELF oil I use, clutch is perfect as is.
Bought a 2005 4RT about 3 months ago now. When I first got it, let it idle when starting up until the fan came on. About 2-2 1/2 minutes. Read an ad about a product known as 2 Two 2 Cool ... claims to reduce engine temperatures. After reading all the claims and testimonials (only bad comments from people who haven't tried it), I decided to give it a go (is fairly cheap especially for the small amounts used for a 4RT).
Now it takes 6-7 minutes for the fan to come on when starting and the frequency it comes on during a trial is so much less. Just my experience.
Was reading in the July MotorcrossDiGital online magazine that Termignoni has done an exhaust for the 4RT. Anyone have any futher details? Is it quieter?
Will price up a new one but suspect they won't be in stock. Anyone know for certain if they are aluminium and therefore weldable?
Footpegs/handlebar Height Adjustments
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by stkman
Hi Sam,
The 315 and 4RT footpeg brackets are definitely different. Bent my 4RT ones and even though 315 brackets look the same, they aren't. Ended up with Jitsie brackets (10mm back) and Raptor footpegs (10mm lower). I thought the bars were too low as well so put on some 5-1/2" rise trials bars. Had on 4-1/2" rise before I changed. What a difference they made. Also rolled them forwards a bit more as I was feeling too cramped on the bike (I'm not that tall!). Most of the time you are not standing straight when you ride (more crouched) so you don't want to go too high with the bars.
The spacers may just do the trick for you.
Good luck fnding something you like,
Andrew