Regardless of what you intend to do carb wise - you realy do need to sort your ifgnition out correctly first.
The red wire - was just some windings put into the LT coil in order to produce some voltage for a brake light
( normal lights worked off the other coil which you discarded)
Your LT current needs to come from Black wire - so wire the whole thing as I have described. If you eventually need a cut out , and it is always best when sorting out problems to leave it off as it is one less complication - but when you need it - just T into the black wire you have taken to HT coil. You are probably using a plastic junction box - or terminal blocks to connect your black wire from engine to black wire to HT coil - just run an additional black wire from the black connections at junction box to cut out button - which when you press will just actually earth out the black to ground ie handebar.
Once you have wired corectly as I have said - try to start again.
If no joy - please do final ignition test - BEFORE - you start playing with carb:
Dis -connect all the wires from engine at your junction box. I think you have already stated you have saet points to 15 thou - you should have done this by loosly assembling flywheel - but making sure it is home on shaft/keyway.
Turn flywheel clockwise - until points can be seen through 2nd window - check with 15 thou gauge. I use a filed down one ( in width not thickness!) so it fits easily through flywheel window. If points not correct adust until they are.
Next - as I have said dis-connect all wires from engine. You now need a continuity tester / or bulb battery home made job - anything as long as you can determine by light going out - or needle of meter swinging - that points are actually braking the circuit( this will not work unless you have dis-connected all wires at junct box)
If bulb is not going out completely ie you are not getting clean " break" at points - you must sort this out.
Now is the time to also check ignition timing ( although unless a mile out will not stop a Bultaco from starting.
Using a plug depth gauge you can determine exact time point are opening etc.
The re-connect wires and try
Thanks John , right on it this week , daft question but i presume when the buld goes out that when it should be 2.5-2.7mm BTDC ? ..yes !
Quick question John , how would the kill switch been wired using the standard colour system ...just incase i have mine ass about face ....and is the voltage coming off the black wire [to ht] the same as the red wire [rear brake light] ?
Right Greg - I always tend to try to go back to standard - and often when new non standard bits are fitted this may lead to a problem - so yes I suspect carb as well.
But first.
1) You say you have replaced LT coil. Colours that come from original Bultaco LT coil are as follows
Black - goes to HT Coil
Green - goes to earth - I always use bolt that hold HT coil to frame.
Red - on later models is for Brake light only - leave disconnected. Tape up.
Leave any cut out wires off at present ( they will later just be a T of the black)
The light coil you have removed - not needed would have had a yellow wire from it.
So first - just change over the wiring from what you have - to what is correct.
The replacement coil [from a good source] had the Black wire acting as a ground for the kill switch , as I found out when I first wired the thing [as per standard spec] and had NO spark at all ... at least now I have a great spark , even though the colours are wrong to the Bultaco Std.
2) Did the machine run OK with this carb before - or have you bought it as non runner ?
The bike ran for a few seconds then fowled the plug major league , but when the crank is full of clutch oil & petrol thats not surprising [crank case seals in wrong way & totally shot] ... so me being foolish believed the "its the old petrol" excuse #310 and bought it as a runner when clearly it was not ... big big leason learnt here , make sure the bike runs for a minimum of 10 mins , you get a proper test ride to check all gears and dont believe anything your told ...even if it is your DREAM bike !
When I got it home , it ran for another few mins [major smoke] and after that it came appart ! ,,,, am so convinced its the carb , as nothing & i mean nothing ties in with the spec for a VM26 taken from the pro-flow.com chart ! which is why in a depressed state i ordered a new VM26-74 from the US .... this time next week and i hope to be posting a different thread !
Guys , thanks for all the help , like you say this is such a basic engine and should be easy to problem solve BUT only if the parts are good to start with !
Iam going to look at this for you - merely fotr the reason to keep me away from ACU work and maintain my sanity.
Cheers John , would help my sanity too !
Step one - Forget blowlamps, aerosols etc to get a Btultaco started - total nonscence.
Ok , that was pub talk lol
Step two. Please post exactly what you have had done. Or what you have had done . I mean exactly.
Complete strip-down , all new seals , in the right way [checked with manual & Dave R] , piston is still at original size and so Dave could'nt give me fresh set of rings , so it all went back in but cleaned up nicely yes there is some play but its still got compression! ... no damage to liner etc ...all very carefully put back together !
Step 3 - Tell me what carb you have on it - exact details
Now this I suspect is the cullprit .... its a Mikuni VM26 with 208 stamped on the side and heres the big worry the slider has "3" stamped underneath , rest is as follows :-
Main Jet #170
Needle # 5D5 ..clip set at 4 from bottom [or second down from top]
Pilot Jet #30
rest unsure , float level has been set as best i could to 15mm when fully off , ie: fuel is stopped !
Step 4 - What ignition - ie - have you changed from standard - the usual mistake made.
Replaced LT coil , Red to HT coil , Green to ground , Black to cut-off switch , big fat spark & fresh NGK plug .... removed the lighting coil as its not required . New points [set to .015"] condensor and ignigtion carefully set so points start to open at 2.5mm BTDC [set with head off & using dial gauge]
Step 4 - If standard - tell me how it is wired up ie - what colours you have put where?
Only non-standard thing is removing the lighting coil cos it looked damaged and is'nt going to be used !
Just answer these questions first please and we will try and save you some money
Cheers John , I've never know an engine like it , bike is sat in the garden in the sun to get some "heat" into the hole engine , carb off , plug out , at lowest of stroke to open transfere ports and let heat into them as well .
Any help , greatfully received , may have jumped the gun but have a new Mikuni VM26-74 [brand new] on its way over from the states , e-bay warning , never go on there after a few yars lol .
Hi Neo , am just wondered what made you think of the change ? ...am thinking my non-starting issues maybe down to the carb and looking to either a new Mikuni or Dellorto .... but can I find any concrete facts at to which is better or easier to problem solve ..let me know how you get on all best Greg
Well after rebuilding my 198 Bultaco engine [all new seals etc] and spending the last week carefully putting it back together and not even rushing the final assy today , the bloody thing still wont run ..... not a back-fire ...nothing ... zipppp !
Plenty of spark , fuel is there and am annoyed / fed-up / going back to 4-stroke & leccy start as soon as I get this
bloody lemon going !
If anyone knows the ins/out of a Bultaco engine and can help , even if its "try this carb" I would be so happy to
hear from you , am more than happy to bring the bike over to your garage !
Other than that , constructive comments apprecaited !
Alt , I have a Miller Hi-Boy frame if you need pics to compaire , I was in the same boat a few weeks ago thought I'd bought some mystery bike and sent images over to Sammy Miller & he confirmed it was a Miller frame [thank god] ...there was a thread i started in the classic pages ...might be some old info there ...any help just holla ..
Oh gawd. Duckhams chainguard. Why oh why did we have to put up with that stuff? Your mate wasn't the first to spill it on the floor.
Probably because at that age , if anyone told me any of the top flights used it ..then I rushed out o buy it ... anyone need some bright YELLOW fantic pants ? ...am sure a work rider whore them in the British lol
Love the dishwasher idea though ... must remember to allow for that in the kitchen re-fit ...but thats only if the engine rebuild does'nt sink all the money first !
Just a funny thread to keep the sprits up ... whats the funniest or most bother you got in , using the other halfs kitchen [or mums] to help prepare or fix your bike ?
Mine , was the look on my mums face , when she came back from shopping to see a pan of black oilly goo on the cooker and me trying to lower a chain into it ... yes you've got it ... good olde "Link Life" ..what ever happened to that ! ... did I get it in the neck or what ... almost as much trouble as getting caught in the bathroom using the shower to spray the "Gunk" off my frame ... thinking back , what was I thinking ...should have been using Jizzer LOL ,
Come on lads lets here those "crankcase in the oven" classics ...
All best
Greg
Ps, Is it true a dishwasher makes a wicked engine cleaner ?
Hi ya Big J , if I can get my Miller framed bike anywhere as nice will be happy , right now I concure with everybodys sentiments here , I made a BIG mistake in taking the previous owners remarks that "its a runner" too literally , yes it did run but would'nt go further that a few yards before dying and fouling the plug, so heres my lessons learnt [so far]
# 1 ... its not a runner unless its belted up n down the track for at least 10 - 15 mins and stops / starts ok everytime !
# 2 ... if its been standing for sometime and looks like its be neglected ... dont even bother trying to get it started [if it wont after a few kicks] ... strip-it , I have just wasted a whole week nackering myself trying to get the bike going with no joy ... so today it came appart with some surprising finds , main one being the clutch oil smelt more of petrol than anything and yes, the crank seals where well shot ... no wonder it fouled plugs ever kick ! ... crank was full of a petrol / oil mix and definately not 40:1 ... least it wont go rusty and least I now know what the main problem is !
# 3 ... you cant rebuild these motors on a budget , am already spending cash like it went outta fashion and not ridden the bike ... like a fellow rider here spening
Hi Scraggy , have just bought a Bultaco and can honestly say theres no problem with parts for them , otherwise I'd be in deep stook , really depends on your budget .... keep an eye on e-bay and make sure you have a good , enigine fully warmed up test ride on the bike before parting with your money , I did'nt and a week later still trying to get it running and spending more money ...
Have a 198A 250 Sherpa , with all sorts of issues , has [i believe] a VM26 Mikuni carb which I think is ready to hit the scrap-heap , wrong slide cut-away [#3] wrong pilot jet #30 thats just for starters .... has had me going round in circles so going to buy a new carb , question is should I stick with the Mikuni or try something else .... if anyones using a VM26 , would love to know what your basic settings are before I loose it !
Next major issue is the "spark" ... had the Mag off today and the coils look like they;re been in a battle field and lost , lots of scored insulation on both coils LT & Lighting [not used] so they are knackered ... next question , repair the stator with fresh LT Coil [will remove the lighting one for good] points , condensor or junk it all in favour of an electronic ignition kit ?
If the answer is YES go electronic whos kit to use and are they easier to set-up than the points system !
Many thanks in advance of your replys , had nothing but trouble with the bike this week and would love to see the end of the tunnel soon !
All best
Greg
Ps, if nothing else my leg muscles are toning up from all that damm kicking lol
Can you help , did anyone other than Sammy Miller make a nickel [or chrome] plated frame for the 250 Bultaco Sherpa 198 series ?
Cheers
Greg
can post a picture later , but just wondering as I know Mike Whitlock did make frames for the TY's & RL Suzukis , did he ever build a Bultaco frame or was this always Sammy's business.
Wanted Bultaco Mechanic In Hants Area !
in Classic Trials
Posted
Thanks John , right on it this week , daft question but i presume when the buld goes out that when it should be 2.5-2.7mm BTDC ? ..yes !
All best & thanks a lot !
Greg