oh great thanks ill try some what atf is it and can you buy it from ebay , one other thing any tips on putting new pistons in front caliper i did back break perfect but front one is really tite and iv already nackered one set of seals regards ste
Hi,i use the vice method to press in/out the bearings,using a smaller size socket at the front and a larger sized socket at the back than the bearings to press out.
Then just the vice to press the new ones in,Think you will toil without a vice,you dont want to be hammering them.
Try splatshop on the net you will get all the prices you need.
Hi,i believe it is a fire screen,i use the jitsie filters and was told you did not need it with them as they have it as part of the filter,they seem to breath better and you notice less engine brake.
Coolant level,remove the plastic tank cover and the bottle is marked min,max
Calipers you should be able to free of,some wd 40 make sure you remove the pads
Fan,join the two wires that go to the thermo switch if the fan runs then faulty thermo switch,if it doesnt then wire a 12v battery to the fan wires to check the fan
What do you mean HT lead? Do you mean the plug wire? So you are saying measure from one of the primary terminals to the plug wire?
I have tried the tickover thing. In the past this has gotten it started but the bike is screaming. Probably 2500rpm or more. I do have a pretty fast idle going. And this does help. But does not cure this problem at all. And the reset is key to know just in general. It helps if it doesn't start on the 2nd or 3rd kick at any point. But again....... doesn't solve my starting problem after sitting for a while.
Can one of you guys try kicking it and watching the spark on your bikes? And notice how hard you need to kick to get spark and at what point does it spark?
Thats right mate any terminal at coil stick the other in the plug cap
All the checks were ok apart fron the test on the alternator coil which should be 0.7 to 1, and i get 1.4,but i get 14.4 volts at tickover so spot on.
I plan on going out with it today so will see what hapens,yesterday took 6 kicks from cold then started 1st kick all day,let me now how you get on.
I use the adaptors on a 2002 Sherco. They may not look as clean as a new top fork clamp but are hidden under a big pad anyway. They work well but add height to the bars. I used the Protaper adaptors. Factory Suzuki/ Ktm Protaper bars have a very low rise so the height ( and sweep) worked out to be the same as the Renthal trials bars that were on the bike. I like the fatbars because they are a little easier on the wrists and arms.
Thanks for your reply,thats a good idea for the bars,cheers
I got mine 3 months ago and like you found the clutch a bit on off at first,i changed the oil to the recomended elf htx 740 , you get at bvm,after a few rides i must have got used to it as it does not bother me now
Im using 43 rear sprocket as aposed to 41 stock,slows it down a bit in 1st
I changed the stock air filter to the jitsie one,you can do away with fire screen and it seems to breath better
Stators: Depends on the years, I believe the dodgy ones came from about 04 onwards. I replaced mine when I got it whether it needed it or not. Secondly, if you look after them properly, you minimise the risk of failure. Keep the timing side as clean and dry as possible, water and dirt are you biggest enemies. If the casing is excessivley wet inside the whole lot comes off for a dry and a clean, this also lets you look for "other" leaks. My old man's 04 needed Stator and CDI replaced not long after he got it but have been fine ever since.
Corrosion: Again, I believe year specific. Coolant wise I always try to use distillied/demineralised water with an organic based anti-freeze/coolant, minimise the chemical reactions. If the bike is going to be lying a while, I'll drain it.
Carbs: Yes the mikuni carb is crap but if you take the time to do the mods, keep it clean, strip it down every three or four outings you don't get leaks. A big part of the "Carb Issue" is your air filter make sure you have a clean well oiled filter every time you go out.
It's not rocket science and every marque of bike has it's own idiosyncrasies but good maintenance and bags of TLC minimise the the potential problems.
Either way, for the guy who started the thread, take your time, ensure that what you spend your hard earned on is right for the money and that you are comfortable with it. As quick a check as any I've found to give insight into your prosepective purchase is to whip the float drain off the bottom of the carb. If it's clean inside chances are the guy knows what he's doing and you might be onto a good thing.
Hi,slapshot
i would not say the corrosion issues were year spacific have a look on recent postings in the bete section
like i said i liked the beta but these issues put me of buing a new one
anyway good luck to the opening poster on getting a new bike
Shnaft, can I comment on that, even though I don't got my new Beta yet?
I'm in the electronics trade, so from that point of view my thoughts:
Electronic components rarely 'just fail'. It is some change that causes failure. Now, those changes may be small and crucially, within the normal operating conditions. However, changes they are. In the case of a stator plate these changes may include water (a common substance in trials!) and earthing issues. It's fair to say that is possible to minimise the impact of both of these with scrupulous maintenance. I'm not suggesting for a moment that 'it's all our fault' or that it's OK for Beta's to suffer these more than others (it may be that Beta do not have enough safe margin in this area), but I would trust a very well looked after bike to be less prone to electrical failure than one less so. In particular, with regard the earthing of any part of the electrical system.
This is all from a theoretical point of view, but hey!
Graham
Hi,graham
Interesting point about the earthing,i was looking through a recent post in the beta section and a guy came up with an interesting point regarding the earthing of the kill switch on the beta
im not knocking the beta i had one,just that they dont seem to fix the issues,you still get people having stator probs on 08 bikes,the mikuni carb on my old 96 techno leaked fuel and more than 10 years later they still leaked
ive done the carb mods before
i was only giving my opinion that between the two on law of averages there were less probs with the montesa
Both bikes are good bikes but every single one has it's own foibles. If you get a good bike that's been well looked after you don't get this multitude of problems, my 02 Beta has none of the problems because it's taken care of. Be patient, look around until you can find something nice and clean.
Did not realise you could prevent the stators packing in or the coroding issues,please explain.
Hi,check your radiator fins are not blocked with mud etc,had this problem with a mates beta,turned out that the voltage to the fan was only 8 volts instead of 13.8 and the fan speed was slower ,hence the fan could not cool the temp down,we rigged a car battery up to the thermostat and the nutral to the fan negative, started the bike and the fan then worked perfect this cleared the fan of any fault,moral of the story was the stator was only giving out 8 volts.
Trials Clutch
in Montesa
Posted
Dexron 2 or 3 ebay has it for