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nickyburnell

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Posts posted by nickyburnell
 
 
  1. It does, but there isn't. Small end is great, piston good in bore and inspected, pin nice and tight. Big end no float.

     

    No excess smoke, heat, exhaust in tight.  It is a reed valve one, nothing in there that shouldn't be.

     

     Strange

  2. Hi all. Got my engine back from Steve Sell recently. Sent to him as I wanted gearbox sorting. New rod kit, all bearings, small end etc. New rings, piston (std) and bore OK.

     

     Have obviously had barrel off to put engine in frame, new gaskets. Have pulled down again to check rings, all good.

     

     Jetting and fuel mixture make no difference to noise. Bike pulls well, all of the exhaust is new, runs nice at walking pace and pulls fine.

     

     So is this just a normal Ossa thing?

     

     Video below

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. It's the evolutionary laziness of the western world. Mum, dad and gran used to go on holiday in motorbike and side car, now they need a car that's, "easy to get in and out of" and a blimmin great box on the roof. Cables are fine and no clutch is so bad that it compares to 10 hours a day in a 50/60's Scammell. People are just not up for effort anymore.

     

    Regards

    Victor :)

     

  4. Thanks.

     

    Well! Throttle done, 10t to do, went to change the reeds tonight, check the picture. To say lucky is an understatment. Wonder how long thats been rattling about in there. Considering there is a small aperture bit that goes on in front of that bit, someone has been very carelesspost-5424-0-05810100-1440104175_thumb.jpg

  5. Well done! Seems Irish to me but as they say don't knock it till you've tried it.

     

    Just make sure the master cylinder can return fully, If there is no free play between the push rod and Master cylinder you will have problems and most likely it will bind on when it gets hot.

     

     

    Yes: Update, had to slack rod off a bit to get full return as it was binding a little. So over adjusting to bleed seemed to be the key, then back off again..

     

  6. Carb improved it, 150/55 too high a no. though, 135 better it seems.

    Wasn't right though, had an aftermarket rear silencer and let someones son have a go. He fell off (full front brake in the mud, REALLY) and snapped the exhaust off. Ran perfect from then on! So it's so much more than just the carb. Pulled the barrell, bore looks fine but small end play and too much big end float IMO. Engine now with Steve Sell for a full rebuild and re-shim of the gearbox.

     Mikuni worth doing? Yes, although my Amal seemed in good nick there was an improvment.

     

     Not sure where Inmotion get their carbs, but also check out

    http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/

    Get some jets while you are there, and you will need to convert the airbox hose

     

  7. Both MAR's I've owned with Mikuni's and original carbs have managed almost no throttle at all (tickover even if set higher) and then taken full throttle from that (below) walking pace.

    From the girlfriends perspective, a new rider, never ridden bike before, she prefers and has more control with the cable clutch and brakes of the Ossa.

  8. Hi all. Got an Ossa MAR and a Gas Gas TXT250 (99).

     

    The Ossa will do tiny throttle openings, soft power at nearly a stand still. The Gas Gas is a little fut fut at this speed, needing clutch control. Before I start messing with carb jettings on the Gas Gas, is this normal, just the way a modern is?

     

     Thanks

  9. Just done this, IMHO strange design in that the pistons need to be out a fair way even with new pads.

    Many people saying they only get a dribble, this in my case was simply because the actuating rod was not pushing far enough into the master cylninder, judging by the rust it never had. Pop the peddle off and adjust it up lots. Then pull pads out and push all pistons back in so flush,  jam someting in to stop them moving out. Then as there is now long enough stroke on your new adjusted pedal pushrod do a couple or 10 open and shut bleeds, keeping the master topped up. Now put the pads in and do it again, then use the brake to push the pads forward, then bleed open and shut style again. Worked for me.

 
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