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nickyburnell

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Everything posted by nickyburnell
 
 
  1. Looking at one of these tomorrow. Any pointers, horrors etc? Ta lots
  2. Looking towards the winter, as the MAR has a bit of a false neutral thing going on: Who in the UK is the expert at engine teardown and re-build? Can deal with most of it but bit daunted by the shimming of gears etc as above. Thanks
  3. Thanks, they do say, "jettet for model", so here goes.
  4. Hi again. Got part throttle fluffyness on 75 MAR250. Amal carb. Had it apart, done all needle heights, all possible air screw combinations, never right. Air screw fully in gives nice no throttle type torque. At full throttle all OK, just on part futtt splutter. Never stalls, always starts first time. No air leaks, although compression when kick starting seems a little easy. 50 to 1 synthetic. Thinking of a Mikuni carb from Inmotion. Any input appreciated. Thanks
  5. Hi, got a nice MAR here, gears on right. I can see that the swap of the gear lever is simple. Any parts needed to put brake on right? Also appears to have two neutrals, one between 3 and 4 as well??? Many thanks
  6. Thanks, top man now has the bike for work.
  7. Any links or places to purchase please? Need to see diagram of kickstart and gear select. My kickstart spindle can be pushed into caseing with no kickstart on, and gear lever just pulls out. 280 climber Many thanks
  8. Anybody reccomend the best shoes, or material for a no brakes MAR. Thanks Nick
  9. Nick, Trying to get good brakes is a common problem, on all the old bikes. One of the most common mods is to shim the pivot point, of the brake shoes. Your brake arm only causes one end of the shoes to expand. The other end of the shoes are on a fixed pivot point. As the shoes, or pivot point itself, wear down, the shoe surface is getting further and further away from the drum surface. This can cause the shoes to only touch the drum, on a small area of their total surface, typically toward the end where your brake arm is expanding them apart. Down on the pivot point end, the shoes may not even be coming into contact with the drum, no matter how hard you pull the lever. The mod is to make a shim that fits over the pivot point. This open up the shoes, on that end, placing them closer to the drum surface, when at rest. Ideally, you want the entire surface of the brake shoe, to come in contact with the drum, when you apply pressure on the lever. You can make the shims out of soft brass, tin, etc. I have even heard of folks using brass bullet casings. However you accomplish it, done right, it will make a HUGE difference in you brake performance. Many thanks, makes sense, single leading shoe sort of thing... ANy recomendations on brake material? Nick
  10. Hi all. Anybody ever had any success uprating, modding or making them work! Ossa MAR, I am quite heavy and it has no brakes. Is there a recognised disk, or bigger drum mod? Thanks to all Nick
 
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