andrewt

Does anyone know what wattage the lighting coil puts out on a 250 Evo ? Cheers Andrew

http://www.trials.com.au/content/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=993:jake-whittaker-crowned-2011-australian-moto-trials-champion&catid=38:results-national-events&Itemid=10

Hi - can anyone recommend a printer / company that makes good quality waterproof rider scorecards - name / website please. Cheers Andrew

I have always run my TY Monos on full synthetic oil at 60:1 & 98 Octane Unleaded Petrol. Make sure you keep the air filter clean.

Mick, Have done these many times....and have a mates 250 Pinky in my shed waiting for me to do seals Easy to get back together if you have all the parts - you should have (in order bottom up): Cross head drain screw (think there is a very small oring on this from memory) Socket Head Screw & Copper Washer Aluminium Casting Damper rod (internal thread at one end & multi hexagon the other) - has a narrow spring & narrow white plastic bearing on Fork Tube - has a white metal bearing on (20mm wide approx) 2nd white metal bearing (approx 12mm wide) - push fit in top of alloy casting Washer that fits in casting on top of white metal bearing Seal (fit new one) Spring clip Dust Seal (fit new one if damaged) Main spring Shaped washer (centralises spring) Spacer tube Large Top nut - some have air valve on Assembly: Make sure all spotlessly clean - if seals have been leaking you might have abrasive sludge inside. Put some fork oil on white metal beraings before you start assembly 1, Drop damper rod down inside main chrome fork tube - internal thread end first 2. Place inside Aluminium Casting & make sure the rod sits right down in bottom (also make sure the white metal bearing (20mm) is sitting correctly in fork tube as it goes into casting) - hold casting securely in a vice in soft wood - dont overtighten or crush it 3. Put socket head screw (with copper washer on) through bottom of fork casting & screw into damper rod - tighten to 3.0Kgm (You might need to hold multi hexagon end to stop it turning - I use a large bolt (nice fit in multi hexagon) with rod welded on to hold (were special tools around). Can use mild loctite if you want 4. Slide 12mm white metal bearing over top of chrome tube & down into top of alloy casting - it pushes down easily if all centralised 5. Then washer that sits on top of bearing (4) 6. Carefully slide new seal over top of fork leg (I use a thin plastic bag & smear of grease to make sure is doesnt cut) - slide down into the casting & make sure central & flat (& seal is right way up - writing at top) - I tap the seal down with a piece of PVC plumbing tube about 18" long - you can just about push the seal in without wacking it if it is square - make sure it is right down. 7. Put spring clip in - make sure it seats right in the groove properly or seal may come out 8. Slide on dust cap & make sure it is in groove -or will come out 9. Drop main spring in 10. Put shaped washer on top of main spring - then spacer tube 11. Make sure bottow cross head drain screw is tight. 12. Fill slowly with 299cc of 10w oil (+/- viscosity - I find 10w OK) 11. Compress spring & fit top nut - make sure you dont cross threads - tighten to 2.3 kgm Fit back on bike & make sure forks level in triple clamps & tight . Have manual - but all in Japanese ! Hope that helps. Rgds Andrew T