manz

Funny thing is - talked to my dad yesterday evening.. he said "don't bother with the too grabby clutch. I bought a new bike " I don't see how fitting a bigger master cylinder would help against grabby movement, as then you'd have even more fluid moving with the same ammount of finger movement.

Bike's a 01 270 rev3, and the clutch is totally on/off. It barely slips, grabs instantly. It's very nice for steps, but (clubman) turns are a pain. The bike hasnt been ridden much. Using atf in the gearbox. Going to change that to elf htx740, and change the friction plates. Softer springs would be good? The clutch doesnt drag, nor slip. Adjusting the lever's position helps a bit, but not enough. So my bet would be getting a smaller master cylinder. But from where? Ideas?

You're probably running boyesen reeds? Bending reeds or reed restrictors isnt a good idea. The reeds should seal, not stay open. You won't get a power increase bending out the restrictors, you will only get worse sealing, meaning that filling of the combustion chamber isn't as effective as the pressure drops. Hence, less power. This most likely also causes carburettion problems.

I agree with JayLael, great work! http://www.trialscentral.com/user_photos/a...ges/image12.htm ^^ gives a good view of the steepness. Thouse long rock-sections must be really heavy to ride.. I bet the plastics manufacturers cheer... 270 riders... ooh.. thats 250 rear mudguards a day... for a whole week! ;-)

This is also a problem with the 2001 rev3.. The compression ratio is too high on theese bikes, or the cdi advances too much. Acctually all betas detonate. Even new 05's. Solution? Higher octane fuel. A little richer jetting. Oh, And trials bikes tend to clog up. Try running on a (closed) road, highest gear, full throttle (dont overrev though, and stop if it knocks wery much). Until the engine gets hot. (or open up the cylinder head and clean ) If the bike doesnt run at all when pumpin the throttle (ie, unrideable), the its probably the CDI-Unit which is toast.

Yeah I know, I've been trying to get nice photos from local trials and it looks like we're riding football sized rocks.. I Can't belive there isnt _any_ tv-coverage. The gratest trial in the world and the men in suits doesn't care? Anyway, thank you Andy for the pictures!

Hey Andy, I guess you take requests? Could we see a little more of the sections? A little more (wider) angels etc. It would be easier to get a picture of what the guys and girls have to go thru, for us who can't be on the spot. And, does anybody know if eurosport covers ssdt, and if so, when?

The sollution is pretty simple. Get hold of a (i use copper) tube, and put outer threads on it, which fit the drainplug. Then lean the bike to the right side, remove plug and attach the tube, and lean the bike back. It will drain all the oil, and won't spill. Just my 0.02

Well. I hope you dont think i change a 200

I had the same problem with a rev3 2001. It wasnt the stator (200

yeah well, tried that already. (thank god). Wouldnt be nice to notice that you've spent 230€ on parts which didnt help just to notice it was the plug cap the cdi box is around 110€....

Well, got a new stator plate. And a puller. Woodruff key was in place, we exchanged the stator plate for a new one (around 120

It cures clutch drag mainly because of it's thinner. Plates dont stick together. I've heard rumors of fibreplate swelling when using synthetic oils, but im not sure on that one. Im running ELF HTX 740 gearbox oil in my mont and rev3. It's thinner than hydraulic oil, even at room temperature. Costs quite abit, but runs _really_ nice.. Br, Robin

Hmm, havent checked the stator plate.. but now when you guys mention it... Althou i need to get an magneto puller. So you are sure it isnt the cdi box? Also noted compared to my montesa that the spark is weak. I fail to see it would be the woodruff key, as the magneto sits _firmly_ in place and timing at idle is ok.

Just got hold of an 2001 rev3 270. It's been ridden wery little, and otherwise in good condition. It has been standing in an warm garage for about an year, been run twice during that time. We emptied the tank, changed gearbox oils (previous owner had been running something wery thik, clutch was dont freeing at all as cold) to the same elf 740 i use in the montesa. We also changed spark plugs, cleaned filter, and cleaned the carb.... Then we got to start it... =) IT RUNS LIKE SH*T. Pardon my french. At idle, it runs quite ok. Open the throttle abit (very little), still runns ok. Give it a bigger blip on the throttle... heavy misfire, detonation. Checked float level, which was ok. Raised needle. Still same. Noticed that when it gets warm, and we stop it, it fouls the plug. Even if its not wet. We dont have a magneto puller tool so we werent sure that it was ok. Then we hooked it up with a storbelight, put "piston top" position markers on the casing, and on the flywheel. At idle, it fires about 2cm from top (on the flywheel), give it a little more, it goes earlier about

Hi, Even if the bike feels "slow" revving at neutral, doesnt mean that it isnt jettet right. You should really run it at third or fouth gear with the throttle wide open. It if revs out then youre close... =) If it outrevs without power, then its lean, if it doesnt rev, then its getting too much fuel. Settings depend on what restrictors you've removed. BR, manz

Well, I did check out the bike, noticed it really was a 2001, and got it It runs nice, and I've already got some goodlooking bruises all over. The front exhaustpipe was changed to a non chromed one.. but everything else was ok. I'll leave this thread open if other people are wondering about the same thing. -Manz

Thank you guys! I'll take a closer look at the bike tomorrow.. I had a quick look at it last week, and started surfing. One thing for sure is that the front section of the pipe is black. Tank was red.. Didnt notice what make the forks were, but they had the same "wierd" color that the new bikes have. and front so the pipe could have been changed (due to damage etc). If it's an 2001 then my bultaco 325 -75 is getting a new pal -Manz

I'm gettin an used montesa trial bike, and my biggest problem seems to be people who think their bike is newer than they really are.. Ie, no chrommed pipe, rear break calipers look like -98 (claming model 2001). So id would like to know if there is a way to identify the year of make, from a frame/engine serial number? -Manz