drop5

I've had the same problem with the water pump corrosion.I've replaced the clutch housing and am now trying Motul factory line coolant. This is the only one I've found that mentions aluminium and magnesium alloys on the specification and is organic. I think the pro cool only said aluminium alloys. is the water pump magnesium alloy? Unfortunately this is going to be a long term thing i'll know if is any good in six months to a years time..the plus point is the factory line is bright red and matches the front mudguard, one has to colour match if one can

It depends on the conditions ie rocky or muddy, and to some extent on your weight. Down here its mostly mud so I run 3.5 PSI back and 6PSI front. I'm no lightweight at about 16 stone. use a trials dial pressure gauge 0-16 PSI as a normal one is inaccurate at low pressures.

If the leaver has play side to side the needle bearing is worn. If the bush at the back is loose the bearing probably needs replacing as water gets in . Not expensive to replace,also change the bush as this is probably worn. The easiest way to remove the leaver is to remove the swing arm, only takes 10 mins. And you can grease the swing arm bearings while its apart. Trying to remove the leaver without removing the swing arm is a nightmare.

I weigh-in at around 16 stone and the 250 has more than enough power to pull up any hill. The 270 has a sharper power delivery, not ideally suited to a novice. The extra ballast is not a problem going up, it's the going down that's a problem,all that momentum and beer to try and stop.

I've found the the vee rubber tyre has a very hard sidewall and a hard compund, not good for muddy conditions, but Ok for enduro bikes. The X11 is very good. The IRC competition tyre is my favorite as it has a slightly harder sidewall, which if your like me not the lightest rider around ( 220+lb) is a advantage and works well in the mud and lasts a bit longer than an X11. I run these at around 3--3.5 lb with no problems.

for a bead breaker i use a couple of 6" quick clamps, the orange ones from screwfix, about

I had one of those once but it just wooden go.

This may be a bit obvious, but it

dont forget to drain and clean the carb,depending how far in you went,the petrol may want draining out. Change the oil and run the bike up and down the gears for a minute or so and then drain the oil, repeat this till it comes out clean. Water may have got in to the crank, some bikes have a crank drain under the skid plate. electrics should be ok, check the plug for a spark. as you can see i've had this problem myself. keep trying it will start eventually best of luck

sounds like the stator. either get it repaired or get a new one. search this forum for STATOR for more info. quite a common problem with betas. hope this helps.

The MCIA has a lobbying campaign. If you wish to let your MP know your views on this bill visit the site below. It may not make much difference as the bill has apparently past it

Steve. The oil does the gearbox and clutch. To change it warm the bike up. Then remove the plug in the bottom of the engine via hole in bash plate. Check the seal round the plug if ok then replace.The fill plug will be similar to the drain plug, and I think on shercos is next to the water pump? Refill with recommended amount of oil. Clutch drag is quite common on trials bikes. Check the little plunger on the clutch lever is able to return fully, tiny bit of play when leaver is out. Some people screw in the adjuster to get more travel, but if the little piston does not return back past the hole to the fluid reservoir then the system can

I know a lot of people recommend cleaning the carb very regularly, but when I

if the bikes had a good soaking dont forget to change the oil. change it and run the bike for a few minutes,drain it again if it comes out clean ok if not repeat til its clear.

I know this is not a political forum,but this government just brings in legist ration to appeal to