gordo

Hi folks, Thought some of you might enjoy seeing my winters project. Not sure how many of these you see over your way, but not too many in these parts.

This is the set I was looking at, but the dia. of the springs was too big. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Hi folks, Saw a new pair of Red Wing shocks that would fit my bike. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. Affordable, yes, but are they any good? Thanks

My take on this issue is that when these rules and classes were put in place, a decision had to be made as to what was considered Vintage. Back then, the decision was made to go with twin shocks and drum brakes. I think it is really that simple. No one even thought about the idea of conversions back at that time, because the "new" monoshock bikes and next, the disc brake bikes, were truly modern, when the rules were made. Recently, on a different forum, I read where an enduro rider was asking how to convert a front disc system back to drums, so that he could race in a particular class. Not that much different then the twin shock debate, in my opinion. And it won't give him any advantage. But somewhere along the line, a rule was made. And at that time, disc brakes were a modern novelty. Where I compete, in observed trials, the rule is simple. Twin shocks and drum brakes. So a 1960's machine is competing against a 1980's TLR. Obviously there are differences between the two bikes, but they do both have twin shocks and drum brakes. In my case, the TLR beats me every time. But the truth is. If he and I switched bikes, he would still beat me with my early 70's machine, because he is a better rider. And I think that is the case most of the time. I think some people truly enjoy playing with their bikes, to make them different, or what they perceive to be better. But chances are, those same people are just bored and probably would be better than most on any bike they rode.

Hi Folks, Does anyone know where I can find this decal, as well as any others that belong to this model Penton Mudlark / Wassell? Thanks

I didn't think about the old mounts being in the way. That's correct. They will be. I just hate to cut them off. As it is now, with the new pegs, I have to lift the peg in order to get a full kick on the kicker. I read or heard somewhere that a good position for the pegs is in line with the front and rear axle. Does that sound about right?

Hi folks, I am using longer shocks on my Ossa MAR. They give me more ground clearance and make turning easier, but they raise the pegs up as well. I was thinking about lowering my pegs. Just wanted some feedback on that idea. Thought it might bring my center of gravity down a bit. I put some aftermaket pegs on that are wider and have a lot of grip. These pegs ended up being higher than the stock ones which doesn't feel comfortable. Just thought lowering them even more might be better. I'm not that tall, but I feel like I'm too high and bending too much to get to the bars. Just an experiment over the winter. And I'm going to leave the stock mounts where they are and make new ones, so I can go back to the way they were.

I have purchased two pairs of Goneli fenders from Europe. The price was very good and the shipping wasn't bad either. And they got here quickly. No problems.

I have an Ossa and a Yamaha with Tube Type D803's on both front and rear, original stock rims. Not sure what is available in your area, but Tube type Dunlops are very common here. I run 4 pounds in the rear and 6 pounds in the front and have never had a problem. I saw a write up on the Pirelli saying how great it was for trials. I'm glad I posted this before I bought one. Now I'm back to IRC or more Dunlops.

I would if I could find one, here in the states. Plenty of 4.00 - 18's, but can't find a single 2.75 - 21. I've had very good luck with the Dunlops. I just thought I would like to try something else. I certainly don't want a hard compound, and didn't realize the Pirelli's were. Thanks for all the advice.

Am looking at purchasing the Pirelli MT43 tire for my vintage Ossa. Was wondering what would be a suitable match for the front. Also, may sound stupid, but how important is the front tire, as far as performance and $ are concerned? You can spend $25.00 - $100.00, for a front tire. Just curious what you folks think.

Quote - Other option is to use a Pirelli MT43 radial wich can be used for tube or tubeless applications and is quite cheap at about

Here it is: http://www.trial-club.com/ossa.3274.0.html

Lots of choices out there, but since you have already narrowed it down to two, I would definately go with the TY. Not only because parts are so available, but because they are a great trials bike. I have an Ossa that I like, but it has been costly to keep up. Someday, I will own a 175 TY. Always wanted one. I have recently aquired a Penton Mudlark. Do you see many of them in the UK?

Hi Folks, Just wondering what everyone is running for tires on their vintage trials bikes. I'm using Dunlops, but was wondering if there is a proper vintage tire out there.

Here's the 1983 Championship on video. 35 minutes long. http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...85468051222934#

I would also be interested in the entire series on DVD.

Hi Folks, Saw this video and was just wondering if this was still popular over your way. Looks like a lot of fun, but I've never seen it, here in the states.

Thanks for the web site. Lots of great photos to look at and figure out years and models. Great information.

Should I not be concerned about the type of fuel? Should I just use 93 octane unleaded? I was concerned about the additives in pump gas and racing fuel is not a local option. But I can get it if it's a better option.

It is a 73 Explorer. The Explorer was basically a trials bike with a larger seat, tank and counter shaft sprocket. The bike starts and runs well during an event, with a new plug. Over the winter, I think I'm going to buy a Mikuni for it.

Right now the air screw (now that I know it's an air screw) is out less than one turn and I am running aviation fuel and Golden Spectro at 52:1. I'm due for more fuel, so if you folks think a better oil or ratio is better, let me know. I'm only using Golden Spectro because it's what I always ran as a kid. The bike is basically an MAR, with an Explorer tank. It is used for trials only, so maybe my ratio is wrong. 52:1 is what my 85 TY350 calls for. I'm wide open to you folks giving opinions. Thanks

Does anyone out there have any specifics on tuning the Amal carb on my 73 Ossa Explorer? I asked this question in the Classic Trials section, but recieved no answers. Is the one air/fuel screw an air screw or a fuel screw, and how many turns out should it be to begin with? My Clymer manual doesn't cover the Amal. Can't seem to make plugs last long. I'm running Denso IW24's. On a different note, I noticed not one person suggested an Ossa, for 'Best Twin Shock Ever' I like mine and thought they did quite well in their day. But I guess the early 80's produced some far better bikes. Obviously from the response, Fantic was the favorite.

I have an Amal carb on my 73 Ossa Explorer. There is only one screw on the carb that adjusts air/fuel. My question is: since the screw is on the jug side of the carburetor, doesn't that make it a fuel screw? I always thought if a screw is on the aircleaner side of the carb, that made it the air screw. But there is no screw on that side of this carb. I have received different advice on this issue at events. If I back off on this screw, am I making it leaner or richer? And, what is a good method for adjusting these old carbs, (other than discarding them). Thanks

Hi folks, I posted this earlier this week, but for some reason it was taken off. I had one response and would like to hear from others. I am looking to replace my Amal carb with a Mikuni on my 73 Ossa Explorer / MAR. Can anyone aim me in the right direction as far as what size and model, as well as what size main and pilot jets. Also I would like to hear from people that have done this, and how it changed the throttle response. Thanks