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kimpybugalugs

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Posts posted by kimpybugalugs
 
 
  1. Yes they do make a difference. I use the dual set and they bike lugs down lower but more importantly it hangs on to max power longer. Can't advise on jetting on the TK as I use a Pwk 28mm jetted for a GG 280.

    If you want a more modern feel remove some or all of the extra flywheel weight.

     

    Thanks for the answer. 

     

    Has anyone put them on with the TK carb - if so what jets?

  2. Hi all 

     

    I have a 1984 TY250 Mono. As far as I can tell it is bog standard.

    It runs OK.

     

    My questions are:  

    Would fitting Boyesen reeds make much difference?

    Would they require jetting changes?

     

    I put some on a TY175 a few years ago and with jetting mods recommended by John Cane it made quite a difference.

    I'm not so familiar with the Mono so any advice appreciated.

     

    Thanks in advance.

  3. It's a 1984 TY 250 mono. It's got the shock with the remote reservoir.

    I've taken the preload to the max and wound the spring to it's tightest setting with the two locking rings.

    The back end bottoms out far too easily - I'm about 100kg with all my gear on. 

     

    Is there anything else I can do?

    Does anyone do a heavy duty spring?

    Should I put a packer  in front of the lock rings so they compress existing spring more? My guess is I'll lose some travel but it might be worth it?

     

    Should I lay off the beer and pies to lose a few kg's (I think this has to be a very last resort)?

     

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

     

     

  4. looks a good bit of kit as long as the dimensions are right for your bike.

    It does look good. I've emailed them to try and get some more info - especially the clamp size

    They do different lengths so it'd be a case of which is best?

  5. Hi,can anyone give me their opinion on wether its worth putting Ty250 forks/yolks onto a Ty175,

    are there any advantages/disadvantages in doing so? Thanks.

    I have put the TY250 forks and yokes onto my 175 and they feel vastly superior with my 110kg onboard.

    If you search through this forum you will find this discussion quite a few times.

    This swap worked out to be for free for me, if it was going to cost me a decent sum then I might not have done it.

    See here:

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34698-ty250-bits-to-a-ty175/page__p__261375__hl__%2Bty250+%2Bty175+%2Bswap__fromsearch__1#entry261375

    I sold the 250 with all the knackered bits from the 175 on it for the same money I'd paid for it in the first place.

  6. Have you checked the bolt that is above the selector drum on the outside of the casing, it holds a ball and spring that holds the drum in neutral. if its faulty then it wont help with selecting neutral. just a thought.

    Hi Andy

    Thanks for your input. All is working perfectly.

    As you're on here - what spockets are you running? I've done similar mods to yours (boyesens, uni filter, Sammy Miller tail pipe, pilot jet increase) and am currently running 13/52. I've got the option for new sprockets of 11,12 or 13 for front and 51 for rear and am not sure what way to go?

  7. I had similar results with the renewal kit I purchased from them as well. The problem with the one I recieved was that the new stainless bushing was not pressed into the gearcase cover correctly as it looked like the leaning tower if you had it sitting on a table so when I would snug up the cover screws it would bind the shift shaft and you could shift it out of neutral into 1st or 2nd but it would not release to grab another gear. You may want to make sure the bushing is true in the case or leave all the new parts that are in the kit in place and put your old cover on and see if it shifts, if it does then you may have the same problem I had.

    I quizzed them about your comments. As I have had nothing but excellent service from them and have recommended them to many of the guys I ride with in NZ.

    They tell me that there was a problem with your one and that the problem was rectified two years ago with a new jig.

    They also said they offered you a replacement and refund of freight costs but you wanted a refund because you had a mate that would make one for the price of a burger and fries:

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/35821-ty175-shifter-shaft/

    I have seen a locally done one here (in NZ) but it looked rough and did not come with the extra bits in the T & T kit.

  8. The part appears to be very good quality and as usual - excellent support from John Cane. I reckon it's worth it if yours is as knackered as mine was. I'm hoping to try John's suggestions one night this week otherwise it'll be the weekend.

    So, the suggestion from John Cane was have you tried it with the engine running? I hadn't but what possible difference could that make?

    A lot of difference as it happens....

    .... I fired the bike up and the gear change worked perfectly straight away.

    Now I feel rather stupid but am happy to recommend this mod to anyone with the sloppy gear lever.

    Thanks John. I'll be calling you soon for gearing advice and to place another order.

  9. I had similar results with the renewal kit I purchased from them as well. The problem with the one I recieved was that the new stainless bushing was not pressed into the gearcase cover correctly as it looked like the leaning tower if you had it sitting on a table so when I would snug up the cover screws it would bind the shift shaft and you could shift it out of neutral into 1st or 2nd but it would not release to grab another gear. You may want to make sure the bushing is true in the case or leave all the new parts that are in the kit in place and put your old cover on and see if it shifts, if it does then you may have the same problem I had.

    I've had a response from John at Trail & Trial - he's sugested a few things to try - so hopefully that'll fix it

  10. Hi All

    I've just got round to fitting the Trail & Trials UK gear change mod for the TY175 after having it sitting around for 6 months.

    I took all the old bits out, put the new bits in and followed the instructions.

    The gear lever no longer slops around like it used to. BUT - now I am having trouble selecting a gear.

    The leaver goes down to a stop or up to a stop but doesn't take bike out of neutral.

    Before I go back and start all over again does anyone have any tips/advice/etc?

    Thanks in advance.

  11. Has anyone fitted "Magicals" progressive fork springs to their TY250?

    If so what difference did they make?

    I'm 105kg would they be of any benefit?

    Same questions apply to the "Magicals" adjustable fork caps?

    The modded damper tubes are way beyond my budget but if anyone has any comment on them I'd be interested.

    Or should I just throw heavier fork oil in?

    Thanks in advance for your input.

 
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