I use wurth dry chain lube and have done on all my bikes road, race or trials, best product on the Market in my opinion it's clean, no build up etc. I also use wd40 after a wash tho on the chain and other parts. WD40 could be used as a primary lube but as stated it would need a few applications in my opinion before riding and even then may not protect enough
Another one to bear in mind could be the Norwich Viking trial at Santon Downham on March 13th. It's part of the Beginners & Wobblers series so should give you a good idea of what you could expect. We usually have a range of P65s, twinshocks and moderns.
For what it's worth I think it may help to learn on a modern bike for the reasons already given. However, I think it's important to really enjoy actually riding the bike - if that means it needs to be a T/S or whatever then go for it.
Dellorto, air screw to the left of tickover screw. I've got that 4 turns out. Thanks.
Sounds about right. Have you tried adjusting the mixture screw - by the way on that carb it's a fuel screw - by richening it up a bit? In this cold weather it might need a fair bit of adjustment. The other thing I had last year when it was cold and damp was the carb icing up. The bike would run but never felt right, particularly low down. I got round it in the end by riding around as best I could for 10 - 15 minutes to get some heat in the engine and then leaving the thing switched off for 5 or so minutes so the heat got into the carb. It was fine after that. Maybe something to think about?
Can anyone tell me what jetting I should have in my '04 315? I've stripped and cleaned the carb and the bikes running ok but seems a little "weak" off the bottom end? Cant see any wear or damage to needle or slide but I can change 'em if needed. Not sure what jets are in at present. Any and all advice on carb set up will be greatly received!!! Cheers guys.
I like zip-ties to hold the rear fender for the back 2 screws, I use 2 or 3 small pieces of black duct tape to seal the gap at the fender/airbox junction
If it's a 2000 it should have the PHBL carb rather than the PHBH. Carbs are marked as such but easy way to tell the difference is where the mixture screw is. PHBH mix screw is back (airbox) side of carb. PHBL screw is engine side. Throttle stop screw (tickover) is in the middle.
PHBH spec for a '99 is 135 main, 46 pilot. Mine's running a 130 main, 46 pilot.
When you say you've cleaned it have you taken out the 2nd pilot jet down the hole that the obvious pilot jet is screwed into? There's another one down that hole that has got some tiny holes in it that block really easily - One of the little joys of the PHBH carb.
ok having just removed the seals, another question on a similar theme...
the writing on the bearings, facing out on each side or out on one side in on the other?
I done the dogbone with the writing out on each side (which was my interpretation of the manual), but on the linkage on the swingarm that the guy has done for me ones in ones out....?!
All mine were flat side outwards when I took it apart so that's how mine has gone back together. I've never even thought about it till now. Just had a look in the manual and there is a diagram of those bearings which looks like the lips maybe should be outwards as you've done them. If mine are the wrong way round then nothing has suffered for it in the 2 years since I did them. They are all looked great the other day when I had them apart. Be interested to see what anyone else says.
Just to clarify the manual seems to show linkage bearings have dust seal lips to outside. Swing arm pivot bearings seem to show flat side of dust seal to outside.
Yesterday, despite being in the process of re-fitting their local store here and having no stock at all, they organised the collection today from Romford of 2 cans of chain lube and the hand delivery to my door just now. How's that for service?
Credit where it's due. They were some of the nicest, most can-do bunch of people it's been my pleasure to meet recently. And they followed through with what they promised to do. Bunch of stars.
Thanks to all who have posted in here! I'm new to petrol powered trials and this has been a massive massive help in looking for a first bike. I've been glued to this forum over my night shift and god not much work done!
This thread has helped and given me an insight into the different bikes.
Taaa
Bongo
Welcome and let us know what you go for and how you get on. I'm not sure if anyone else has suggested it but it's always a good idea to join one of your local clubs. Go along to a couple of events, have a chat with some people and have a look generally what's going on. You'll see what bikes are popular locally and see what the sections look like. You'll probably find that with your experience you'll be looking at the more advanced stuff straight off - A lot of bike triallers do very well at moto trials.
Super nice work, and he was able to swap the chain, from right to left, to accomodate the Japanese engine. If you got the skills, it can be done.
Oh yes. I'd forgotten about that one - very nice. I suppose with something like a TY or KT, or something similar, back wheel in the Montesa frame it would be reasonably straight forward to get drive on the left and still have a decent direct-pull rear brake.
Putting a common Jap 4 stroke engine in would be tricky as the chain is on the wrong side. Maybe one of the European manufacturers like Moto Guzzi or Ducati would do perhaps - they had drive on the right hand side. I presume you've seen the SWM chassis' with the Guzzi Stornello engines in them - Nice Guzzi SWMs - something like that would be pretty good I'd have thought. Failing that a Beta or Rotax 2 stroke engine, if you could find one, of course have drive on the right side too.
+1
Trials around Kings Lynn for photography
in Trials Photography
Posted
Page 3 if you can see it OK.
Eastern Centre Gazette