I have used petrol mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinners or, neat lacquer thinners. Let it stand for a while and slosh it around every now and then.
You will see it working as the (clear) thinners takes on the colour of the gunk it is dissolving.
Contact a friend of mine: Richard Yamane, via Facebook. He's in the USA and works on a range of classic bikes. He should know who can help you with a sprocket.
Motovia and answer to gas tank , on the gas cap stamped Kerch mf Michigan Wisconsin , , I don’t know if original screw on cap fits leaks a bit , no other stamps on yellow plastic , I have others tanks ,,same I picked up at bike shop went out of business .there blue in color . Very cheep to purchase if you look around standard pump gas does not effect it ,, This yellow tank came with bike with cap . Cheers
The last few years Mick Andrews came to our club for our Vintage Fest, he was riding a super nice Hodaka for the trials.
Guy
Is that the Ormstown Vintage Fest? If so, I was there in 2016, invited by Helmut Clasen who was competing in the Cross Country. I was working in Montreal and took a trip out there for the weekend. I met Mick Andrews, but I missed the trials event.
Hi farmer58za . Tank , It’s often sold on eBay cheep ,, these bikes when brand new in 1970 ish cost 500. USD .now in the states a collectors , this bike is related to super rat , hodaka ,, , it’s a 50 year old bike , heaps of fun ,cheers
Thanks Larry s.k. and motovita
Thanks for the replies. Yes, they sold thousands of those in the early '70s, especially in the US. Every now and again, one pops up here in the UK. I'm looking for one to finish a project...
Hi , you all , a 1970 hodaka ace 100 , ,, custom mf to road toad , , with big sprocket , big Han bars ,, will just about crawl , it was a frame up ,,project . Just got the shifting working , working on orig tank , is next .. , the parts market is hot ,, right now , original parts are Exp$$$ , went on trail riding today , for hour , ,,,
I have a slightly OT question: Do you know what brand that universal plastic tank is?
Mineral turpentine is what I use, followed by a warm solution of dish-washing liquid then cold water rinse then wrapped in absorbent fabric and squeezed then allowed to fully dry out by evaporation
I do as feetupfun said, using paraffin. After drying out, I still give the dry filter a good beating on my hand to dislodge any last bits of dust.
Not wanting to ruin anyone’s day but if you are riding in any form of competition then these carbs are not allowed on pre65 class bikes. ( I think, strangely that Tiger Cubs may have been given their own loophole on this but I don’t understand why ! )
I gave this some thought when doing the conversion but as as my bike is a '68 (post- '65 design), it wouldn't be eligible for pre - '65 anyway. Then, on a purely practical basis, the Yamaha YDS3 carb is, at latest, off a '67 bike so it's older than my bike!
I've fitted a Mikuni carb to my Villiers 37A, to replace the Villiers S25 carb. Must be a 24 or 26mm - came off a mid'60's Yamaha YDS3 and it went in with a small amount of adapting, as well as just a slightly larger pilot jet and main jet.
After years of messing around with difficult starting with the Villiers carb, the Mikuni gives starts from cold in 2-3 kicks, plus first kick hot starts, good idling and no dribbling.
Just a better carb.
I have a good friend in South Africa who has a Greeves 250 Anglian (Frame No. 24THSA...) The original swingarm bolt has been replaced with a piece of Metric threaded bar.
I've done a bit of reading on the 'Net and what I have managed to find is that the Anglian swingarm pivot bolt is 5/8" UNF. Is that correct?
Hi. This is a ‘fit and go’ job from Meridan Off-road, however it’s never as easy as that is it. Jets are
pilots 22.5
mains 100
needle 4D20 middle posn, 3
slide 2.0
I’ll read the Amal manuals tonight, as you suggest, and yes I think it is rich looking at the plug.
This is the first Cub I’ve ridden since I was 9 ( Mum has one), and it’s a project my Dad started 45 years ago and didn’t finish before he died. From the promising start made this week getting it going after an extensive refit, it feels like a lovely balanced bike.
Hi. This is a ‘fit and go’ job from Meridan Off-road, however it’s never as easy as that is it. Jets are
pilots 22.5
mains 100
needle 4D20 middle posn, 3
slide 2.0
I’ll read the Amal manuals tonight, as you suggest, and yes I think it is rich looking at the plug.
This is the first Cub I’ve ridden since I was 9 ( Mum has one), and it’s a project my Dad started 45 years ago and didn’t finish before he died. From the promising start made this week getting it going after an extensive refit, it feels like a lovely balanced bike.
Hi Wezzo
There is a needle jet that is part of the main jet holder, into which the jet needle protrudes. You haven't stated that in the jet sizes above. If the needle jet orifice is too small, you could get leanness and a flat spot at 1/4 throttle, especially where the throttle is snapped open.
To get to the needle jet, remove the carb slide, main jet and washer, then tap the main jet holder upwards so that it exits through the carb throat at the centre. The main jet holder is also the needle jet and will have numbers on the side, such as P-6, P-8, Q2, or similar. The number range goes from around N-0 to R-8. Each number has a specific diameter and diameters increase with higher numbers in the range. Higher number - bigger diameter- richer
Before you take your carb apart, try the following to see if you can improve the response from idle to midrange: Turn in your idle mixture screw 1/2 turn. That will richen your idle and possibly affect the way the bike picks up.
frame number is 1516 with the 6 over stamped with a 7
it has a plated frame and greeves barrels and head
look forward to the advise
ab
Adrian
Interesting: I have the original sales receipt for frame No 1518, dated July 1967, which was originally purchased by the gent who owned my Cheetah.
Regards
David
The current REH forks are completely new, using much thinner oils. I'll start with 180cc of 15W (because it's on the shelf at home!) and see what happens.
I purchased a whole bunch of new bits for the clutch on my Villiers 37A today. The crank seal on the drive side of the crank looked a bit worn so I got a new Viton one . Is it fairly easy to pry the old seal out of the crankcase end? The old seal looks like it is a standard rubber/nitryl type. Is there any special precautions I should be aware of?
What Model Is This Old Bultaco?
in Bultaco
Posted
Hi Big Dan
It's a '75-'76 (model 152) Frontera mk. 9 250cc, according to this page:
https://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm
Will send a PM
Regards