farmer58za

Hi Big Dan It's a '75-'76 (model 152) Frontera mk. 9 250cc, according to this page: https://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm Will send a PM Regards

I have used petrol mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinners or, neat lacquer thinners. Let it stand for a while and slosh it around every now and then. You will see it working as the (clear) thinners takes on the colour of the gunk it is dissolving. Regards

Contact a friend of mine: Richard Yamane, via Facebook. He's in the USA and works on a range of classic bikes. He should know who can help you with a sprocket. https://www.facebook.com/richard.yamane.7

PMK, that's a very nice and special bike. RT360 is a good motor. Well done!

Interesting looking silencer that! Nice Lotus too!

Thanks Larry!

Is that the Ormstown Vintage Fest? If so, I was there in 2016, invited by Helmut Clasen who was competing in the Cross Country. I was working in Montreal and took a trip out there for the weekend. I met Mick Andrews, but I missed the trials event. David

Thanks Larry s.k. and motovita Thanks for the replies. Yes, they sold thousands of those in the early '70s, especially in the US. Every now and again, one pops up here in the UK. I'm looking for one to finish a project... Enjoy your Hodaka, you can make those things fly! Regards

I have a slightly OT question: Do you know what brand that universal plastic tank is?

I do as feetupfun said, using paraffin. After drying out, I still give the dry filter a good beating on my hand to dislodge any last bits of dust.

Looks very Cheetah-esque, but enough details are different to suggest it's something else, or even an earlier/later Cheetah development. Maybe Mick Whitlock could be contacted to ask? Does it have a frame number?

Yes it is.

I gave this some thought when doing the conversion but as as my bike is a '68 (post- '65 design), it wouldn't be eligible for pre - '65 anyway. Then, on a purely practical basis, the Yamaha YDS3 carb is, at latest, off a '67 bike so it's older than my bike!

I've fitted a Mikuni carb to my Villiers 37A, to replace the Villiers S25 carb. Must be a 24 or 26mm - came off a mid'60's Yamaha YDS3 and it went in with a small amount of adapting, as well as just a slightly larger pilot jet and main jet. After years of messing around with difficult starting with the Villiers carb, the Mikuni gives starts from cold in 2-3 kicks, plus first kick hot starts, good idling and no dribbling. Just a better carb.

Central Wheel Components +44 (0)1675 462264

Thanks for the info! I will post with the GRA Regards

I have a good friend in South Africa who has a Greeves 250 Anglian (Frame No. 24THSA...) The original swingarm bolt has been replaced with a piece of Metric threaded bar. I've done a bit of reading on the 'Net and what I have managed to find is that the Anglian swingarm pivot bolt is 5/8" UNF. Is that correct? Thanks in advance

Just as a comparison: I was directed to this site today for Mikuni settings for all types of 4 strokes http://www.braigasen.com/Mikuni_jetting_chart_four_stroke.htm There are Mikuni settings for a Trials Cub as well. Regards

Hi Wezzo There is a needle jet that is part of the main jet holder, into which the jet needle protrudes. You haven't stated that in the jet sizes above. If the needle jet orifice is too small, you could get leanness and a flat spot at 1/4 throttle, especially where the throttle is snapped open. To get to the needle jet, remove the carb slide, main jet and washer, then tap the main jet holder upwards so that it exits through the carb throat at the centre. The main jet holder is also the needle jet and will have numbers on the side, such as P-6, P-8, Q2, or similar. The number range goes from around N-0 to R-8. Each number has a specific diameter and diameters increase with higher numbers in the range. Higher number - bigger diameter- richer Before you take your carb apart, try the following to see if you can improve the response from idle to midrange: Turn in your idle mixture screw 1/2 turn. That will richen your idle and possibly affect the way the bike picks up. Regards

Adrian Interesting: I have the original sales receipt for frame No 1518, dated July 1967, which was originally purchased by the gent who owned my Cheetah. Regards David

The current REH forks are completely new, using much thinner oils. I'll start with 180cc of 15W (because it's on the shelf at home!) and see what happens. Thanks for your responses.

Hi All. Can anyone point me towards a good starting point for oil capacity and weight for 1960's REH forks? I'm thinking 200cc of 15W per leg. Thanks in advance David

Yes, bought those tools except the hub locking one. Will make that up from an old intermediate clutch plate.

Thanks Will be giving my credit card a bit of a work-out

Hi all I purchased a whole bunch of new bits for the clutch on my Villiers 37A today. The crank seal on the drive side of the crank looked a bit worn so I got a new Viton one . Is it fairly easy to pry the old seal out of the crankcase end? The old seal looks like it is a standard rubber/nitryl type. Is there any special precautions I should be aware of? Thanks in advance David