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farmer58za

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About farmer58za

  • Rank
    Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Cheetah

Profile Information

  • Location
    Worcestershire
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Thanks for the info! I will post with the GRA Regards
  2. I have a good friend in South Africa who has a Greeves 250 Anglian (Frame No. 24THSA...) The original swingarm bolt has been replaced with a piece of Metric threaded bar. I've done a bit of reading on the 'Net and what I have managed to find is that the Anglian swingarm pivot bolt is 5/8" UNF. Is that correct? Thanks in advance
  3. Just as a comparison: I was directed to this site today for Mikuni settings for all types of 4 strokes http://www.braigasen.com/Mikuni_jetting_chart_four_stroke.htm There are Mikuni settings for a Trials Cub as well. Regards
  4. Hi Wezzo There is a needle jet that is part of the main jet holder, into which the jet needle protrudes. You haven't stated that in the jet sizes above. If the needle jet orifice is too small, you could get leanness and a flat spot at 1/4 throttle, especially where the throttle is snapped open. To get to the needle jet, remove the carb slide, main jet and washer, then tap the main jet holder upwards so that it exits through the carb throat at the centre. The main jet holder is also the needle jet and will have numbers on the side, such as P-6, P-8, Q2, or similar. The number range goes from around N-0 to R-8. Each number has a specific diameter and diameters increase with higher numbers in the range. Higher number - bigger diameter- richer Before you take your carb apart, try the following to see if you can improve the response from idle to midrange: Turn in your idle mixture screw 1/2 turn. That will richen your idle and possibly affect the way the bike picks up. Regards
  5. Adrian Interesting: I have the original sales receipt for frame No 1518, dated July 1967, which was originally purchased by the gent who owned my Cheetah. Regards David
  6. The current REH forks are completely new, using much thinner oils. I'll start with 180cc of 15W (because it's on the shelf at home!) and see what happens. Thanks for your responses.
  7. Hi All. Can anyone point me towards a good starting point for oil capacity and weight for 1960's REH forks? I'm thinking 200cc of 15W per leg. Thanks in advance David
  8. Yes, bought those tools except the hub locking one. Will make that up from an old intermediate clutch plate.
  9. Thanks Will be giving my credit card a bit of a work-out
  10. Hi all I purchased a whole bunch of new bits for the clutch on my Villiers 37A today. The crank seal on the drive side of the crank looked a bit worn so I got a new Viton one . Is it fairly easy to pry the old seal out of the crankcase end? The old seal looks like it is a standard rubber/nitryl type. Is there any special precautions I should be aware of? Thanks in advance David
  11. The Motoplat flywheel should have a small hole in the face that corresponds with a similar hole in the stator at the firing coil. You push a small (2.5mm or so) drill through both holes to lock the flywheel at the firing point. Hopefully, that should measure as the correct distance BTDC. If not, pull the flywheel and advance or retard the stator on the 3 adjusting screws, replace the flywheel (not too tight) and check again before tightening the flywheel. Remember, right hand side Montesa flywheels have left hand threads on the centre nuts. All data I have for Montesa gives 3.0mm BTDC Regards David
  12. Thanks Andy Forks look spot on but the current shocks are waay too long. That's how I got it. Rode a trial on Sunday and the front end was very twitchy and wanted to "tuck in". I have found a good pair of softly sprung 12" Boge Mulholland shocks that should fit ok. I reckon it'll be like a different bike. Regards David
  13. Hi all Does anyone know the standard lengths for shocks eye to eye and forks top yoke to spindle on the Cheetah Villiers trials bike? Thanks in advance David
  14. Hi All Which way round does the points cam go on a 37A motor? The cam I have has a "1" stamped flat on the one end that could indicate the direction of rotation. The cam has a steep ramp and a much flatter ramp on the other side. When the cam is put in with the "1" on the outside face pointing forwards, the steep part of the ramp will be effective for the points closing. The Villiers manual is not much help, but I'm sure the solution is something that every Villiers owner (except me) knows. Thanks David
  15. Lovely bikes Brian. Are any of your bikes fitted with a side stand? I'd like to put one on mine and need some guidance. Regards David
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