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Everything posted by prelit

  1. Thanks for the prompt replies guys, Does anyone know the material of the Fantic piston ring and if the barrel chrome, nikasil, plasma or something else? Cheers, Prelit.
  2. Hi Huski, I'm not wishing to run this piston in a Fantic barrel. I'm just after a 68mm to 70mm piston to run in an alloy barrel with a cast liner. Thanks, Prelit.
  3. Thanks Midlife for taking the time to measure those dimensions for me. I believe the the Fantic barrel was plated, has anyone got any experience with running the piston in a cast iron liner. I guess in theory the piston ring wouldn't be 100% compatible but can you get away with it? I bit of premature wear doesn't bother me. Cheers, Prelit.
  4. Thanks for the info and link Bilko, much appreciated.
  5. Hi guys, Can anyone help me with the standard piston bore size of the 240 (212cc) engine to the nearest mm. if anyone has a scrap piston available and has time I would also like to know the gudgeon pin diameter, crown height from pin center to piston crown and the overall piston height. These can be just a ruler measurement. Thanks in advance, Prelit
  6. prelit

    Drayton Bantam

    Thanks for all the replies guys, Thanks to Bezaboy for the info. on his Drayton. Anyone else know the 'ready to ride' weight of their Drayton that they care to share? Cheers, Prelit.
  7. Hi Guys, Does anyone know the weight of a Drayton Bantam ready to ride with fuel etc. Thanks, Prelit.
  8. Thanks for the response, I have had in the past belt driven camshaft sprockets that were anodised but the belt quickly wore the colour off and began to wear away at the alloy teeth. The later ones were described as been HARD anodised and these still look perfect after many thousand miles. The new ones were available in many colours, red, blue gold, black etc. So the question is are modern rims HARD anodised or just a coating as you say for the aesthetic look and corrosion resistance? Thanks again.
  9. Hi guys, I'm after some advice on anodizing wheel rims. I've got a pair of good condition old rims off a early Gas Gas I believe, the rear is tubeless but is the older type with the spoke nipples through the rim. The rims were a dull silver colour as common on most bike of that era. I took them to a small local Anodizing company who reversed the anodizing process so I could get the rims polished. They now are nice and shiny with no scratches. I took them back to the anodizing company to have them done black, I asked the knowledgeable gentleman to HARD anodize them but he was very reluctant and advised against it due to a high copper content of the alloy. He said there would be a real risk of losing the rims during the process but would be happy to do the normal anodizing process to turn the rims black. Question is will the normal finish be durable enough for wheel rims? Are most rims just anodized not HARD anodized? Thanks in advance. Prelit.
  10. prelit

    WES Exhaust

    Turbo, you are a star, thank you so much for the taking the time to measure, photograph and post. Cheers Prelit.
  11. prelit

    WES Exhaust

    No problem turbo, thanks Prelit
  12. prelit

    WES Exhaust

    Thanks turbo that would be great, thanks for your time, Cheers Prelit
  13. prelit

    WES Exhaust

    Hi guys, Big ask but can anyone with a WES exhaust on a TY175 give me some approx. dimensions? I'm looking to fit the main box to a Bantam but need to know if it will fit before l purchase one. I only need rough 'eyed' in figures of the main box excluding the entry & exit pipes, the dims l need are the total length of the main box including the cones, length of the main rectangle section, height & depth of main section. I also would like to know the approx. angle of the lower section of the exit cone as this will be close to the frame between the swing arm pivot and damper top mount. Anyone got one for sale? Thanks in advance, Prelit.
  14. Hi guys, Can anyone help me with a starting point for the idea compression ratio for a d14 Bantam with a b175 centre plug head. Thanks, Prelit
  15. Hi Guys, Tighter wound coils to the top, this will slightly decrease the un sprung weight. Prelit
  16. Hi guys, Sorry can't give you the trade name of the 'woven' material. I rang Villiers Services who did my shoes yesterday and asked the question but they send the shoes to a 3rd party for then lining process. I believe the 3rd party is a supplier who services the truck and trailer industry. The description Villiers Services gave was 'Woven Sintered'. The material is light brown and has metal (brass?) particles in-bedded. As I said the brake performance now is the best I've ever experienced with a drum brake and would recommend this lining material, talking with some other guys who have also tried this material complain of them been a little too 'grabby', however I like the aggressive feel at very slow wheel speed as it instantly transfers the weight. The brake is still nice and progressive. I've not tried them wet as yet. Cheers Prelit
  17. Hi guys, Sorry for the lateness in feed back. I did eventually have the shoes re-lined with oversized woven friction material. I spaced the shoes from the cam with shims so once machined to the hub dia. l would have some lever free play and no binding. I also drilled some small holes through the shoes and lock wired them closed although l don't think this is was necessary now. The material was far easier to machine than l feared. I gave the tool a quick sharpen for the final cut. Anyway the brake after a few applications is by far the best I've experienced. Very progressive and powerful with a nice firm lever feel . With 1 finger pressure will perform nose wheelies. Cheers
  18. Ok guys some feed back and thanks for all the interest. I made up a 2.5mm 'wire' cable rather than 'rope' however it was galvanized rather than stainless which I believe is slightly stronger but does have the advantage of been easy to solder with normal flux etc. It also wasn't pre-stretched. This made a good improvement to the feel at the lever but didn't noticeable give me any extra power or bite. I was thinking at one stage of trying 3mm wire but now l don't think it will offer much more improvement, Anyone using 2mm core currently may benefit from going up a size, just make sure it's wire not rope. So I carried on with the NOS shoes and slowly sanded down the high spots. I must have chalked the shoes 10 times and this got me close to full contact. The cam has to more more than ideal to take up the clearance but it would have to do as the lining weren't oversize to start with. I then cleaned the hub and shoes with brake cleaner and gently tried to bed in rather than the normal dragging the brake whilst you just ride round. So up to speed and brake fairly hard down to near stand still and repeat several times. Allow to cool and repeat the process again. So rather than 'glazing' the shoes this bedding 'should' if you believe the theory transfer some friction material to the drum surface. Well the result was encouraging, although the brake at present isn't as good as I hoped for it is a vast improvement over the Montesa hub and a vast improvement over the first installation. Slow speed nose wheelies to position the back wheel are now possible. I'm still going to try the woven material arched to the hub, I hoping the grabby feel will help rather than hinder. But first I may re try the shoes Villiers Services did just to see if the bedding procedure was a fluke or not. I will keep you informed. Thanks guys, Prelit.
  19. Again thanks for the responses, B40rt, The back plate is Fantic but not the 300 floating cam type which have different shoes as you say. I'm going to send the shoes back and have the done in over size woven material and try to machine them back to hub dia. In the meantime I going to make up a cable with pre stretched 2.5mm stainless wire core if I can obtain some. This can't do any harm. Woody, I guess the surface speed at 800rpm is quite high at a 125mm dia. The standard Venhill universal front brake / clutch kit uses a 2mm inner cable, does anyone know what the standard Fantic / SWM etc inner cable dia was? Currently my cable is 2.5mm but the 'rope' type rather than the 'wire' type. I believe the rope type to offer more flex but also will be prone to more stretch. Cheers guys, Prelit.
  20. Hi Guys, Thanks for the tips, The brake cable is a self made new (Venhill). I went up a size in core wire. The outer cable has been kept as short as possible and the abutment point made stiff. I tried to fine a length of pre-stretched inner but couldn't obtain any. So I don't think the I have too much energy lost to flex./compression. I did extend the operating arm with 2 extra clevis points. plus 10mm & 20mm. I've tried the standard length and the plus 20mm and it makes little difference. Obviously the plus 20mm point gives a mechanical advantage the expense of a mushy feel. I was told if I try to machine the woven material to use brake cleaner to keep the tool cool and use a high speed. Thanks, Prelit
  21. Hi Guys, Brake with NOS lining are slightly better despite not been bedded in. However even with chalk on they don't bite like the first few applications with the chalk on the Villiers Services supplied lining. No where near 100% contact at present. Timdog, are the beige lining you've had success with woven? These have metal (brass wire?) embedded in them. If so were they arched to fit the hub dia. by machining down from oversize before fitting? If not did they bed in quickly? I believe the grey material one's supplied are what are used in fork trucks. Cheers, Prelit.
  22. Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies, The latest is if I chalk the linings the first few applications are really good, nose wheelies no problem, good feel, just what I wanted. However, this is short lived. I spoken to Villiers Services who have said that from time to time they do get a hub that don't work with this material for no reason. They recommended to bed the shoes in more and try and transfer the compound onto the drum. Alternatively they have a woven material that they have good results with. However, this material not easy to machine if you have the shoes done oversize. It is possible if you know what your doing. This material is a beige colour. It quite course with metal particles embedded in it. I've used this material in the past without arching to the drum on the Montesa hub, although the braking power was better I felt they lacked feel and were grabby. Someone mentioned he used to wet the hub prior to a trial and this helps calm the grabby feel. I'm going to try the NOS lining next, I will shoes currently fitted lined with oversize woven material and machine back to dia.if the results are still poor. I will report back. Thanks again, Prelit.
  23. Hi guys, I've just fitted a Gremica 125mm front hub to a Bantam to try to improve the braking power over the previously fitted Montesa 110mm hub. The hub had very little wear, max dia was measured at 125.5mm and surface was free of any damage, I used a new NOS brake plate and cam assembly with oversized shoes arched to to fit the hub. The lining material was recommended by Villiers Services to be the best for trials. I also opened the brake plate spindle hole 0.020" to allow the plate to centralise with the brake on before tightening the spindle. Now what I expected was a significant improvement in braking power but in fact the braking is no better! New wheel bearings. New cable. Domino levers. Now I've only been up and down the road dragging the brake on but I expected more. I quickly dropped the wheel out and looked at the linings, it looked as if the contact area was good judging by the shine on the shoes as the material was matt after machining down to size. So I chalked the linings and repeated, sure enough the contact area was good with 100% contact. A few more trips up and down the road dragging the brake on to try and bed in resulted in no better performance. I was also alarmed at how cool the hub was too the touch. The lining material is a grey colour, very soft and when machined produced a fine dust. It machined real easy and I just had to keep the tool dressed to produce a nice finish. The hub surface has been bead blasted. Anyone else used this lining material? Is there any better material available? I have the NOS shoes that came on the brake plate, these obviously aren't arched to the Hub Dia. but maybe they will be better. They look a more course lining and are brown. Any other comments? Thanks, Prelit.
  24. prelit


    Hi Guys, Does anyone know to a uk supplier of the Tubliss system? Thanks in advance. Prelit
  25. prelit

    Rear Hub Studs

    Hi Guys, Tried every thing!!! Left to soak in paraffin for 3 days, twatted the end of the studs every day whilst in soak, heated stud/boss as hot as I dare. Never had anything this stubborn before. Well I gave up and had to machine out on a dividing head & re tap. It looks as if they were just normal studs, after I machined the core out then the thread could be picked out. After I re tapped the threads look ok and I'm happy enough to use on my Bantam project as this hub will give me a right foot back brake. Thanks for you help, Simon.
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