Practice lots, even spending hours riding on your driveway will pay huge dividends. Get a copy of the ryan young trials training DVD and watch it lots.
Mark there are many ways to ride a trials bike and many may be wrong for you. take all the advise you can get but be warned it will only be another person's preference. I would NEVER do what Pete suggests - follow the bars with your shoulders as it makes me swing my butt out rather than being centered over the bike - but that is just me.
I've had no issues with my plug. I fitted an Iridium and it has never fumbled. It often looks very sooty / black but it runs fine. Gap the plug at 0.6mm and I run 3-3.5 turns of mixture screw.
Lampkin's suggest a new plug every few rides and i can't figure out why.... if you run a very rich idle mix (four turns out) as they suggest perhaps they are fowling plugs? Perhaps they have shares in NGK?
Chris. Now i know times are hard..... but you have to go back to using the high octane gas. Not only does it burn better it also makes better electricity!
I seem to remember getting this some years back when a fan motor was stuffed.
Humm that doesn't read so good does it... ah i don't know what i ment to say... it is a tough technical motrocycle sport....you don't have to ride a clean bike to clean a section?
Cleaning everthing. Don't be afraid to move up a grade to keep the brain stimulated.
Agree with Peter - find someone to ride and practice with, preferably someone who is a better rider than you so you learn.
Flipp'n heck it is snowing at my place 250m above sea here in HB. I'd say the lads at the Kaikora 3d will be getting cold nads as it really does get cold there. Big cold southerlies for tomorrow are forecast. Brrrrrr. Still I'd rather be there than here. Sigh.
Welcome to trials - only the toughest bike to ride cleanly!
One trick for wheelie is to steer the bike with peg pressure. Press down on one peg and the bike will go that way.
When you hop the bike up throw your hips to the side.... then jerk the bars over so the wheel slightly over travels your hips.... so when it all lands you end up balancing again. Easy to type. Hard to do.
Turns. Avoid dropping your shoulder to the inside....... Very little weight on the wrists. Stand tall & slightly bow leg. Lean the bike onto the inside leg. Keep the outside knee out form the bike and DO NOT turn your shoulders.
New 4T bikes will not rev out because they have not been run in. Take it easy on the bike for the first few weeks, really easy! - the bike needs the time to run in.
When it is run in you will likely need to fit a smaller main jet as the bikes are sent out from the factory a little rich. Ask Lampkins for the mods to do to the carb. I did what was suggested by them to my Rev4T and it runs ssssssso much better for a couple of simple mods. Get a Jetsie mixture screw for the bike as it makes tuning easy.
Finally - did you make an error fitting the new kill button and perhaps now have a wire shorting out on the frame?
Rev3 2T had 5 exterior screws holding the mudguard on, plus one hidden inside at the front of the airfilter inspection cover. The 4T uses 2 fewer exterior screws. The hidden screw has a large tab of plastic going back up to the guard. The tab makes a really good wall for the air to flow around and it is stupid. Remove it and more air will flow to the air box.
You'll also see a couple of vents in the guard that are blocked with black covers. Remove these and silicon the mesh in place for even more air flow.
Get one get one get one get one. Got it? Brilliant little bit of kit.
what he said. Take the carb off to fit it as there is (in order they go into the hole) a very small o-ring, very small washer, then the spring. You will loose these so easily.
Two turns out is nice and crisp but stalls easy. 4 turns out (Lampkins recommendation) difficult to stall but a bit fluffy at 1/8th throttle. 3ish turns out seams out best and it starts easy.
FWIW..... also change the main jet to #112.5, raise the needle to the lowest clip position (and put the thicker of the two small needle washers under the clip for more lift), cut off the middle seat/guard support if it is still there to get air to flow to the carb. My bike is running really well with these settings.
Fit an Iridium plug.
Fit a proper kill button.
Valves appear to be best set at 0.09-0.10mm inlet, and 0.125mm exhaust for nice quiet operating
Blue is not good. It is likely someone has fryed the clutch. Remove all the steel and fibre plates and measure their thickness (call the importers for specs). I'm picking that they are worn out.... or.... your clutch needs bleeding.
I kow of a couple of lads in grades above me that are using the VEE Rubber trials radial tyres. They think they are fine and didn't notice any difference when switching to them. Appart from the lower price of course.
How quickly did you get it running again? 30-60 min is what you should have aimed for. However just ride it and you'll find out at the next couple of trials either way.
Oh..... and check the reeds... even a little water back pressure will crack them!
50w makes the clutch a touch heavier/more drag. The bike doesn't like being started in gear. I run Total Grand Prix 4T Fully Synthetic 10-50w motorcycle oil and get very little discoloration at 15hrs between changes. I change the oil filter every second oil change.
40w gave a lighter clutch/gear box.
ONLY use a quality FULLY synthetic motor cycle oil. car oils aren't designed for gear box use.
You'll need approx 800ml oil per change.
The HiFlo oil filters are good'ns, and is what i got from the Beta importer, most motorcycle shops sell them.
First - you stood the bike in water which cooled the engine casing down. When this happens the air in the box contracts sucking water up the breather pipe (this is a REALLY good reason to have the breather up high!). Warm the bike, drain the oil and replace with fresh.
Or Second - your water pump drive shaft and seal are worn. Drain the remaining coolant and white gearbox oil. Replace the part(s). Refill both and go.
Empty your tank and check the gas is/was clean. Flush if necessary.
Fit a new fuel filter.
Check the float valve for muck or damage.
Chech the floats dont have fuel in 'em.
Go find Billy T's words on how to adjust the two float tangs. Take some time to get this right. Do it slowly!!!
Then link the two side vent tubes together over the top of the carb with one tube. Put a small breather hole in this tube - on the under side, of the top of the u bend.
Hi all. Beta 08 250 4t. My kick start leaver broke the other week... a new one is here now so am happy. Has anyone else had a kick start break on them? Hummmm......there appears to be a silly stress riser machined into the stub shaft
Compression is probably around 10:1 or better. So with a good kick and throttle open, one would suggest a reading that was near 10 times your barometric pressure, or around 140-150 psi if you are within norm.
Beta's need fresh high quality high octane gas. Run fuel:oil at 70:1, and only use quality synthetic oil. Keep the air filter clean and properly oiled. Use an Iridium spark plug of the correct heat range. Keep it decoaked is a very good move. Flush the exhaust out with a bit of petrol to get goop out of the insides. Repack the muffler often. I retarded the timing on my 270 a but.
It was better, but never really fully stopped it knocking......
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Best Tip For A New Rider
in Trials Training And Technique
Posted
Practice lots, even spending hours riding on your driveway will pay huge dividends. Get a copy of the ryan young trials training DVD and watch it lots.
Mark there are many ways to ride a trials bike and many may be wrong for you. take all the advise you can get but be warned it will only be another person's preference. I would NEVER do what Pete suggests - follow the bars with your shoulders as it makes me swing my butt out rather than being centered over the bike - but that is just me.