We rode in the scott trial last week and one of our biggest fears was a front puncture as they are very time consuming and a general massive pain to sort by yourself half way up a moor.
We did use a heavy duty tube with slime in it and did avoid punctures but you will never know how close you actually got to getting one.
I have since noticed that Nitromousse list a "plushie" for a Michelin x11 and Dunlop front tyre that gives 6 to 8 psi
These seem ideal for the Scott/SSDT
I know that a mousses historically were generally regarded as too hard and had little feel to them but they seem to have come on technically (so they all claim) in recent times.
Now I assume because of the popularity of hard enduros they offer the much softer options that give trials like pressures. They also list one to fit the tubeless rear, not too sure how that works but am more interested in the front at the minute.
Has anyone tried one of these from Nitromouse and if so what is the feed back ?
Has anyone tried a different brand that works well ?
If it is a Crapioli it should have a rubber bump stop at the leg where the spring is. As I remember, it was a form of rubber ring. I don´t remember any rebound spring in Crapioli but normally they act as rebound stops and should not give any problem.
my 315 has an annoying crack/banging noise on full extension
fork seals are good and checking the oil levels they seem fine as per the manual, oil was recently changed.
The manual does mention in the right fork section a "stopper rubber" I don't see it in any of the pictures or the parts diagram, any ideas ?
I also see that the left fork has a "rebound spring", this could be adding to my noises, do these generally give any bother ? I see it in the parts book but unless I am wrong its doesnt list it with a part number.
before a full striping I would like parts at hand or at least located as I dont want the bike off the road for long and although annoying its perfectly ridable.
it has always been a bit problomatic to start from cold but we always put that down to the fuel tap not turning off properly and it flooding the engine over time, this has has now been fixed.
The bike is hard to start cold but when it goes it runs perfectly but if you stop it hot its a pig to get going again.
had barrel off and all is good in there, tested ring sealing and all seems well.
carb is clean
plug changed
thinking it may be coil or stator, do these give bother and if so is there any way of testing them ?
The search function on this and many other forums is rubbish (they all use the same software). You’ll get better results by going to Google and adding ”trials central” to your search term.
after a few nights doing the search with google and "trials central..............." I have found more threads covering all my topics and other things I only thought about than I can believe.
so apologies to those who have looked at them and said "that has been asked 20 times before" and rolled their eyes
I was actually a bit embarrassed as the neutral selection issue it seems has been talked about to death
thanks, its a great site full of great info (if you can find it)
The search function on this and many other forums is rubbish (they all use the same software). You’ll get better results by going to Google and adding ”trials central” to your search term.
I read every post in "the clutch fix" with great interest and realise a lot are having dragging issues also causing neutral issues too. But our clutch did seem ok when cold, its nice and light and just slicked into first without even a jolt forward.
I will take it out and give it a good clean anyway but it seems its a Beta thing and we may have to just live with it.
I will also reduce the oil mix as recommended, better just check my 315 Montesa can run so low as I wont be making 2 mixes
12 hours ago, tshock250 said:
80:1 synthetic is more than enough, & is what most people seem to use. I have a ‘19 evo 300 & it’s a devil to find neutral.
I would be interested in this though, if anyone has the answer
22 hours ago, mcman56 said:
I have heard rumours that the latest model Evo has some minor change that makes it easier to find neutral. It sounded like a minor parts change. Does anyone have details?
it was only my sons first day out on the 300 after moving from a 125 Sherco, seemed a nice running, easy starting bike with obviously plenty of power, any set up hints or mods that make it better would be appreciated, (I am not very good with the search function on this forum)
had the 2012 Evo 300 out today for the first time.
couple of minor issues
the exhaust was spitting oily mess from the mid joint, I had the exhaust off last week and had fitted 2 new o rings. I will remove it again check the o rings are intact but refit with sealant to ensure a good seal.
will silicon do the trick or is there some else I should get ?
I ran it at 50:1 as I had it mixed, I think I better reduce the oil a bit as per the book. and repack the silencer.
clutch seems great, no dragging even when cold etc but while the bike is running it is very hard to find neutral from 1st, its a bit easier from 2nd
had the 315 out today and can report a vastly improved front brake
the lever has much more feel, before it was very wooden
it not as sharp as our Beta evo brake but still very acceptable.
I am still using the standard caliper, I suppose if I want more power I will have to fit a 4 pot but I doubt I will do that, unless I get offered one cheap.
I lost the 90 degree fitting on my Evo and replaced the breather with a one way valve on a short pipe (easily available on line).
I found one of the fittings from a bicycle pump flexible hose (the old fashioned ones) screwed into the hole in the top of the cap. Used a small piece of hose to get the right ID for the new breather.
Has worked fine ever since.
thanks
just found and ordered a 25cm length of 5mm OD stainless tube for £3.45
think a bit of it should do the trick combined with a short breather tube and one way valve
giving the Beta Evo linkage bearings a lube and a couple of new ones
for years i have been using good quality grease from a tub and using the end of my finger to push it in as I assume most do
although I turn the needle bearings, I feel that the bearing never really gets filled with grease as well as it could
does anyone recommend a good brand/type of spray grease that goes on in liquid form, therefore running right into the bearing rollers and then when left it thickens.
there are so many types of grease and almost all mention bearings, or maybe all of them would do ?
As oni nou suggests, they may even suggest a better type of bearing for the life it has to lead. Dont buy the cheapest on offer as these bearings take a hell of load in use.
my bearing only has a very bit of movement in it, so ok to ride for a weekend or two
so dont want to take the old one out and find the new bearing delayed etc, I just want it for the shelf to fit at my convenience.
I know the bearing is a GE12 but has another letter too as the "standard" GE12E is 7mm wide, the Beta needs a 10.4mm (ish) wide body and therefore a bit of an odd bod
I might end up just getting it from Splat but do like to buy from a few local bearing shops too and I just go in with the exact bearing code and not waste too much of their time searching for for what I know is an odd size.
seems to be the main culprit of the rubbish brake, I will order one and report back
I received my Ajp (large) master cylinder and a set of Galfer pads
The master cylinder was a direct replacement for the Gremica, the brake hose fitted straight on in a few minutes and bled up easily.
I haven't ridden the bike yet but the lever had much more feel to it, before it was very wooden and pushing it up and down the garage it now seems much sharper.
will report back when I get a good run on it and bed the new pads in.
any one tried a front nitromousse mousse ?
in General Trials Talk
Posted · Edited by ar22
We rode in the scott trial last week and one of our biggest fears was a front puncture as they are very time consuming and a general massive pain to sort by yourself half way up a moor.
We did use a heavy duty tube with slime in it and did avoid punctures but you will never know how close you actually got to getting one.
I have since noticed that Nitromousse list a "plushie" for a Michelin x11 and Dunlop front tyre that gives 6 to 8 psi
These seem ideal for the Scott/SSDT
I know that a mousses historically were generally regarded as too hard and had little feel to them but they seem to have come on technically (so they all claim) in recent times.
Now I assume because of the popularity of hard enduros they offer the much softer options that give trials like pressures. They also list one to fit the tubeless rear, not too sure how that works but am more interested in the front at the minute.
Has anyone tried one of these from Nitromouse and if so what is the feed back ?
Has anyone tried a different brand that works well ?
https://www.nitromousse.com/
many thanks