lian

So, can anybody recall how look his clutch under top-hat? (My post #15). Thanks.

@heffergm I read here in clutch-threads about dot convertion and it seems like making clutch lever lighter (i don't know 100% but want to try, and i have spare brake piston kit to try). @baldilocks Thanks - what difference have you felt? and since rubber boot is outside of m/c bore, i thnk there's no reason, from what kit it came - mineral or dot? Question about slave cylinder seal - see picture below: Mine now has only 2 o-rings on that protruding rod, but in manual it's seen one more seal (green one #11), that i have bought last year and wanted to change, but when i've removed top-hat (slave cylinder piston) i didn't seen it, so i left as it was, with 2 orings, just changed them by new. I used mineral oil all time since i bought this bike. And lately i've removed clutch cover again (when was struggling with my main problem - slipping clucth) and tried to put this green seal inside top-hat (like i showed in 3D in right side). But i don't understand how it need to work - it just sits inside hat at the bottom and don't do nothing special, just pushed hat a little further to 10 fingers, just like i'd put a thick washer under this hat. It also does not fit on this rod instead of o-ring. How this all needs to be in proper view?

One more question - to convert clutch m/c and s/c to DOT 4/5 from mineral oil, what do i need to change? Only m/c piston kit Dot? And can i use brake piston kit in clucth m/c, i see they are the same in dimensions (i have a spare one), because it is for Dot? Or i need replace whole master cylinder? And do i need to buy new Clutch Slave Cylinder O-rings (2 pcs) - MT280432047 or they accept both mineral oil and dot? At Splatshop it told: "Special oring for the GasGas TXT Pro trials bike clutch slave cylinder for use with Mineral oil or Dot 4, just make sure you use the correct oil for the rest of the system as using other types of oils may cause the seals to swell", but it can't be chosen mineral oring or dot, so i assume it is the same?

Tyre are ok Slave cylinder moves freely, had it's 2 o-ring seals changed lately. I had waterpump leakage once, but cleaned them and sandpaper too (along with metal ones), and since then i changed 2 fibre disks to Surflex but no change in compare with old ones, so i don't think it is because leaked wterpump. I will order that belville spring and will see if smth change. Need to wait couple of weeks to deliver.

Did you mean this - №5 MUELLE EMBRAGUE TRIAL / CLUTCH SPRING - MT280232015. I usually order at Splatshop UK, but i can't find this part number at them... Is this "spring" deforming when clutch dis/engaging and will somehow become more flat with time or what? But even if it flattened now, when i give good burst of throttle, without clutch lever pulled or my basket is thicker (all disks are closed so must be good friction), there is no good pull of bike. It pulls but at that blip of throttle i gave - i'd must flip immediately. All syptoms telling like "your clutch is slipping - basket is thin", but all measures is in correct range. So weird.

What spring? I don't see any spring inside, just disks, plates and fingers, which form "belleville spring". Do you mean this? If so - i wrote i measured it in some variants (14, 17, 18,5mm tall)

Ofcourse i have a free play and yes im using proper gasket. About oil - most of the time i used ATF, just in past year start changing because this weird clutch slipping. So it starts even when ATF was inside.

Do you mean slipping the clutch while reving or just only keep throttle? Because i've wasted much time with sand paper too..

Hello, i have problem with clutch pick-up. When im droping the clucth i can't get a good jerk (burst/spurt..don't know how proper on english). It feels like clucth disks are worn out and it slips. Before that i could pull a wheelie at 5th gear and at 1st make a good sharp "jerks", but now bike just like for easy clubman rider, it has pick-ups but soo light - i don't like this. What i did to examine: My clucth is old (2006 Raga 300), but i changed 1 plate in past 3 yrs. I just measured clucth basket - it is 9.75-9,8mm thick and 10 fingers are 17.5-18mm tall (like was stated on Jim Snells site 17 +/-1mm). I have 2 new fibre plates (i think it's "Surflex" - 3 disks kit from SplatShop) and 1 steel plate, so i swaped them around in different combinations and tried agin and again - nothing changed. If basket was thicker than needed (10mm thick and fingers 14mm tall) - lever just was hard to push, but no sharp pick-ups on revs, just the same as with proper thikness with light lever. If basket was 9.6 and 9.7mm (fingers ~19mm tall) - lever was so light but veeery low pick-up when droping the lever. I used ATF Dexron III of different brands, used Ipone Box 2, Motul Transoil 10W30 - same feelings. With Motul 10W40 (i think it was synthetic 7100 or smth like this) droping a clutch was a bit better, but not as it should be. I done sand paper all my disks - no changes, bled the cluth line for some case to be shure it not affect - line is ok, but no changes. I don't know what's wrong with my cluch disks. Easy way just buy new original pack but it's so expensive with my currency exchange, so i need to be sure i tried everything.

Thanks for advice Steve. Will try that all. Is this that bearing - http://trialstribulations.net/images/products/gaskickshaftbearing_1024x768.jpg and what is bush? Can you give number from manual? By the way - how to pull out this bearing from engine case? Do i need strip engine or just can somhow pull it, knocking on it (on bearing)?

ok, I will search for crack.. but didn't seen, is it need to be really visible or even some really small is enough? so, water+clutch - how it affect? Motul 5100 10W40 pulls bike good... atf/transoil/ipone - pulls poor, so are clutch disks Really spoiled by coolant and water? And is it possible to inspect it visually? Or clean somehow.. any thoughts? Thanks.

Hi all. BIke is 300 Raga 06, my problem is - i have not sharp jerk/pull, when dropping a clutch lever. So i can't do precise jumps, jap-zaps especially, because wheel is just riding, not jumping quickly. All appears like when clutch plates are worn and slipping. But clutch basket is in required measurement and i can pull a wheelie even in 5th gear without clutch help, just suspension and throttle. And lever's pull did not became light, like when thin clutch basket. I'm using oils: ATF Dexron3, Motul Transoil 10W30, Ipone Box2. All fells the same, i mean weak bike's jerk on dropping a clutch, but it was really good last year with ATF and Transoil. I had a coolant leak into gearbox 2 times in past three months (seal problems), so gearbox was filled with "milk". I cleaned it and rinsed engine with 250ml of Motul 10W40. Surprisingly, with 10W40 clutch drop was a blast - really sharp and good jerk on 1,2,3 gear. I liked it, but with this oil lever became more stiffer, finger tired quickly. Strange that so different behavior of clutch with 10W40 and my other oils, but, as i wrote, last year it was all good with my usual oils. What could happened - maybe mix of coolant and oil affects somehow on fiber disks or what? Do i need new clutch pack?.. Question 2. My kickstarter seal (green one, from outside of clutch cover) became seep oil and about last 5-7 rides almost dropped out of his seat. I changed 3 seals in that time - all did the same and all is ripped by the kick - i see spring inside of seal. I don't understand.

http://youtu.be/ejyOVDjZCz4 1. You can see it on video, maybe give me some suggestions after? 2. Pads do not return back - does it mean air is inside and pads was pushed but after releasing lever, air is enlarged and pads just don't move because there was not back force of fluid (or something like that...) Sound on video is shifted somehow, more info under video frame on youtube.

Yes, it was free play.

UPDATE: Problem with seal on MC, i have ignored, air do not enter in hydro-line, only some bubbles are getting in MC through 2 holes. Another problem/question. Have bought new AJP caliper, because in old one seals on pistons didn't take pressure, even with new seals. Idk why.. So, 1. Inverse bleed it, carefully, 3 of 20ml syringes with "pulse technique", after that bleed it in usual way, from up to down - 1 m.cylinder of fluid. Lever got good feeling, almost no spongy feeling, no air out from plastic tube but... But after i release lever, i can't turn wheel - it stuck like i'm pushing brake lever half-way. Bleed one more cylinder, but this problem left, wheel don't turn free. What does it mean, why pistons do not return? 2. Disassembled caliper and assemble it again, inverse bleed the same way, but now lever is too spongy and even can't get pressure after few m/c bleed from up to down. No air out from tube on a caliper bolt, this is strange, and no pressure too... And i noticed that brake fluid is seen under the 2 pistons, when im pulling lever, pistons get out a bit and around them is a little bit of a fluid, too little. I don't know, maybe it drop there when i inverse bleed it, because some of it was leaking out from bolt, when i pushed from syringe, but i wiped it always with towel. If fluid didn't drop from bolt, could it be that it leaking from under pistons and therefore my lever became flabby and i can't get pressure? Could it be something with new caliper - seals on pistons? (i pushed pistons full back to caliper's body when disassembled it in 2 halves, but i beleive i couldn't damage seals somehow by doing that, just pushed it back.. it was not too easy, they went hard).

By the way, that seal i have marked on a picture - is it actually seal or dust seal to prevent getting dirt inside? Which from they two is pushing the liquid and stops it from getting to outside? And when lever released, first seal (like skirt) is in front of 2 little holes in cylinder with Dot4, or overlaps one of them?

I removed that brown dirt just in case, bore looking smooth and clean inside. Maybe i should clean it with a piece of cloth, but i didn't. Didn't seen dirt inside also. Have tried wind the thread on a piston under that seal, to increase its diameter, piston got inside the bore harder and stuck, but when i greased seal with brake fluid, it started to move freely inside, so i could pump it by lever and watch for a leak. It is still leaking.. Maybe i wind too little of the threads and seal is still not fills the bore completely? If there is scratches (from what??), they should be really impressive to cause leakage or even if they are tiny little lines they will do that? Can someone inspect their levers to see is there a bit of fluid or not?

The bore is not scratched, and leakage started even before i start to disassemble and inspect the problem. Could be that old seal rubbed a bigger bore inside mc and therefore new one can't fill it and leaking? Lewis, yes, how did u know?

Hi everyone. I noticed my front brake became plush, so decided to bleed it, but after some time of process i found that brake fluid is appearing on the exterior of piston (marked at the picture). I thought it is due to the marked seal has worn out, but decided to bleed to the end... The end was not so lucky so i bought new kit from splatshop and installed it. But to my disappointment the fluid leak is appeared at the same place and bleeding the brakes is impossible - i pumped lever long time and already have no bubbles out of caliper, but lever is plush and a bit of fluid present at the exterior of piston again. Some time tiny bubbles comes out of 2 little holes in the master cylinder, i assume it is because of that leakage air comes in. What do you think caused this? Rebuild kit couldn't be defective..so it must work fine but no PS. one thought - since seal is not blocking fluid and let air in, maybe put some thin layer of something under it to enlarge seal's radius and it will densely pack an inner tube in MC? Could this solve a problem?

Hello everyone. I bought a pitbike recently and thinking to set up on it 14"/17" wheels instead of 12"/14". And i have an idea put trials tire on rear rim to increase traction. But i cant find any 14" trials tires in Google. I was wondering - maybe something from 50cc trials bikes will fit? ...just found specification of GasGas 50cc - rear wheel 14" and Michelin tire on it. Anybody know where i could order it? Thanks.

Spokes gradually weakened, and at one point BAM - and I push bike home. Return rim to its original state is impossible as long spokes on it (tried, but..). Spokes rotates with nipples when trying to unscrew them - seems like nipples got rusty inside and outside Tryed WD-40 inside nipple - not helped, clamped spoke with pliers through rubber to increase grip - still rotates with a nipple. Any other ways to unscrew them?.. I can't buy new pack of them here in my country - do not selling anything related with trials( Maybe i can use from MX or enduro? Who knows size/diam of spokes and nipples? But i would prefere use my spokes to return wheel to normal state.... Thanks.

I have watched old pics, when i just bought the bike and tryed to see is there that distance between frame and swingarm.. But unluckly there was not good angle of shoot to see that, but i think, all was end-to-end.. Only this pic show this point, and i think there is no distance... right? Therefore, if so, i will need to unscrew bolts that keep bashplate and frame, and turn in swingarm axle bolt to make frame end-to-end to swingarm? Is it right sequence? I tried lean more right while doing wheelie, but it is impossible to keep bike straight.. too many efforts wasting and in the end it lean to the left - it's not the solution. But i will see if the peg will be in proper position after a turn axle bolt, i hope it helps, because all seems to be normal, hm.. very strange.

Ofcourse full hard kick is required, but first, it is recommended to find point of compression and then kicking. I had same problem and last year have broken kickstart gear because of slamming on a kick...( Couple of months of push-start But another side of succes is right carb setting. So even if i got to know how to start bike from a ground, i usually cant start it when i stall in section - there are times then 1 or 2 kicks not help and i have a 5 from loosing a balance. So i have a question in this way - carb setting, cause i think it provide me problems with 5's after stalling... Often i suffer from engine roughness work - especially after some jumps (bike changes position from horizontal). It is like bogging and going to stall if i will not turn the throttle couple of time and wait, but this is losing of concentration , time and energy. Last year i asked here about it and thought i understand all (mixture bolt setup), but now i clearly do not understand consequences of my changes in carb, i mean, cant undertand the way it work now, cause i thought it will be contrary. So, if i had bogging sound it means mixture was too lean, but my mixture screw was near 90'+45' out to fully closed - not good, needed changes. I decided buy richer pilot jet (to Keihin) and got 48 pilot instead my 45 (or 42, don't remember). So i thought i need to change my mixture screw to about 2 turns out from full in to add more air to new setup and then slightly change to desireble engine sound, but now i need to use (!!) 90' out from full in to engine work without bogging!! I have now more fuel stream but need to almost shut air intake... Foolish! Besides, in this fuel screw position, my exhaust start popping and produce more smoke (like it is too rich), and spark plug is black, but if i turn bolt from 90' from full in to 90+180' (very hot here, it must want more air, but...) - that's all, even on idle bike working like it is going to stall. But with all that signs of rich mixture (popping exhaust, black plug, a lot of smoke) i cant turn mixture screw out to increase oxygene, but it all need to be contrary! Maybe i missed something? PS. i noticed one thing - to may fuel drop, floats need sag too much lower than it need, am i right? (if upside down, they are parallel to base line like it need to be ok). What this pointing to? Only in this position fuel start to drop.

Strange, i tryed nail varnish but not black.. so fork leg have leaked in 1st day of reassemble

Lowbrow I ride not hard, so i think i couldn't bent swingarm with my style - easy trials, parapets/drop offs below 90-100cm, etc. Stecks Wheel spindle is straight - have cheked it out the wheel. I can't compare with another swingarm - no dealers, only 1 mate in other town.. laser1 Photo is old, but now sproket set ok, it is maybe just camera angle:) Spark Mushroom head bolt is ok, and swingarm axle seems to be good too. Axle set in engine clamps without something suspicious, and goes through frame side "holes", so i can't notice any skewness of swingarm in link "frame, engine clamps, frame". But is it ok to have some distance between frame and swingarm from 1 side (left).