lian

Im about my 3rd question - tryed yesterday to regulate carb fuel-mix bolt by screwdriver to find that point when bike will move smooth without jerks. But i dont know in what position previous owner leave it so could you explain me, what position it need to be open from fully involute position (if it describes somewhere in manual i'd like link). Maybe it will affect kickstart work! And what for that switch cloud/sun that i wrote earlier? Thanks.

Great explanation, thank you!

Good idea with metal cut, Thanks. By the way, i think it would be better put 2-3 shims on bolt at fastening place of silencer rather pull it away with bull's force...

I astonished that rear wheel is rubbing silencer while loaded before or after jump!!.... How GG engineers could allow this bug? Besides, if a naked metal silencer is adapting to wheel's shape with time, cover plates from plastic or carbon just wear into holes from rubbing. I already rubbed a nice hole in cover so need to epoxy. But is there a solution how prevent future wearing? Thanks.

As i figured out - thing that kick start hitting a footpeg is usual in GG, so kickstart lever positioned right. But even on neutral im jumping on lever alot (not jump ofcourse)... In case of very hard and quick push on lever and quick open throttle at same time, i finally can engage engine, but it take so much strength and my energy so if i'd stand on bike and try to start it in section - i'd definitely have a 5. Don't think i can't start bike, on Sherco i can start it while stationary in section but on GG i think its not a problem with kickstart...somewhere deeper i think, causing that damn jerking, so before drop off im worry - if it shut up while my front end will be already airborn?... You see..

Hi everybody. Recently i've changed my Sherco 2,9 by lil'younger GasGas so now i have adaptation period to '06 300 Raga. But immediatly i faced with some really big differences. 1st - kickstarter pushes stiffer then Sherco's and have less motion to engage engine (in lower position it hits footpeg). I need to kick it much harder than Sherco's to start, but it dont start the bike from 1st kick, even after some more tries it wont start, choke on (i.e. i won't start bike without dabbing if it shut up while i standing) The difference between engines capacity is 20cc (280 sherco vs 300 gg) so i dont think that GG's compression cause this problem with kicking the starter. 2nd - fan on GG works to loud and so often so i dont remember i noticed similar work on Sherco. I changed antifreeze to G12 red 1:1 with water and these days didn't open throttle wide.. What does it mean? By the way, now i have switch with marks cloud/sun - what for? 3rd - while riding sometimes i feel jerking, like fuel periodically dont go to carb or air filter is dirty. Filter is ok, fuel tank' cock is ok, carb seems to be clean. Any problem with jet or mixture regulation or smth more? Is 1st question may be linked with 3rd post problem? Thanks for any help

I had this problem too! And furthermore my brake pedal was set a bit higher than needed so it was really hard to put foot tip on it in time and usually i didn't do it! Lately i set pedal lower and start feeling it more comfortable so only one thing has left to do - concentrating on rear brake pedal when going to brake or when going to get on some obstacle and brake. Just before take off i'm thinking about foot tip but keep it near pedal and when airborne slide foot tip to cover pedal and push. I was making habit of foot braking about 5 months, so now i usually do it automatically but sometimes need to think about it. Good luck.

im getting angry after every 7-10 failed tries falling to bash guard and stop doing it, when only thing i hear are knocks fallen on edge suspension... Maybe lower tire pressure making wheel feel more sensible or contrary? What move will be more teaching - japzap on lil border or instant splatter on it? Or maybe will be better just ride on smth like small halfpipe and make bmx-style stop rear wheel on the top (fufanu)

I rode trials bycicle before and its rear wheel closer to pedals than motorbike's rear wheel to foot pegs, so i just have old habit of feeling WHERE the rear wheel is and cant put it precisely Learning now how to get over one little stone to another, jumping on the rear, but always dont get exactly up on second stone, afraid to overjump the gap (little) lenght. Even when trying to jump to road's small border, dont get on it, cause if i was on pushbike, i'd be on border, but trials bike's wheel is bit far.. What useful exercise make me put the rear wheel precisely and how to reteach myself from pushbikes habit? Thanks.

200 pounds!! f* s**t..! Can i extract engine just removing skid plate? Or i need pull out it from the frame's center, taking out radiator, fan and other? Engine prop to rear fork by 2 clips (i think..) do i need remove swingarm? Thank you.

Could someone help me with link of disassembling bike (i.e. manual how to put engine out of frame)? Thanks.

My mate asked me put this here and ask your advice. He have GasGas04 txt 280. After one usual ride we took our bikes again next day and gasgas start making strange noises while revs are come down. We thought it may be clutch basket rotating in dissonance but inside it looks good, nothing is not loose. I see gasgas clutch system 1st time and i suspect that hex-nut bolt inside in center of clutch basket keeping whole basket screwed in? He thought it can be something with gearbox, but i don't see any signs - gears switches good up and down. What else? This video with noise helps to understand my question. It hears more right side from engine.

thanks Chris, but i did it, even sandpaper and baked it i actually can brake but cant do it instantly... so finally i tend to buy new pads and wondering what brand. i heard about Apico, but heard about it not good responses, so only well known Galfer or new to me - Talon. Whats better?

Hello everyone. I have now Galfer pads and don't really satisfied by front braking. I did all to increase braking force, but brakes is still dragging a little and don't have instant effect (maybe they are too old - i got 2004 Sherco with them already). I decided to buy some other pads and got to know here at forum that Galfer are best )) but i already have them, so i found on ebay Talon pads. What can you say about them? Can i boldly buy them or will be better to buy new best Galfer? Thanks.

Thanks for everyone. It was missed chain lock and for that reason split link don't hold good both chain's sides. Now got to find lock.

Hmm, noise coming from engine as i can hear moving on speed, but not from lower side or backside of bike. I started bike standing on stand and turn 5th gear, giving gas, and heard no rattle. If it could be chain link, noise will be all the time in any gear..

Lately i found weird noise from left side of bike wile running 4th and 5th gear. Noise is getting faster as i giving more throttle (frequency is about 3 times per 2 sec on 30 km/h. As faster speed, more frequently rattle), but when i shut throttle it disappears (i'm running on momentum), so it's not chain, wheels etc. At N and when clutching while 4/5th engine works fine too, w/o knocking. Rattle is metallic sound, like knocking 2 screwdrivers about each other. What it could be? Sherco 2.9 2004. Thanks!

Thank you. Sad xperience.

Im just first time hear about tube-type rear Michelin tire, so im asking because of this. Im not joking)

My friend accidentally got for me Michelin rear tube-type tire instead of tubeless. Can i use it without tube or it will pass air? If so, will i feel much difference from tubeless while riding trials? Only one thing i know for sure - it will leak so fast when got puncture...

+1 I recently bought myself TRP shock insteed of Sherco stock and need advice to correct setup. I made couple of hours easy test ride and didn't felt perceptible difference between this and sherco 04 shock... i want get enough lightness with shifting rear wheel and more quick unloading suspension while jumping, what i need to turn in or out? At original shock it was only spring rings, so i simply don't know what affect this tuning: Orange "twisting spool" Screw at the pic's bottom I weigh 70kg (+ ~5kg when equip) and bought Standart version of shock, at what position i need to set spring rings to have correct sag, cause standart shock's setup have difference from TRP's rings. By the way! Will i be able use this TRP shok for Sherco on Gas Gas, 4 example. If not, what difference between shocks of different bikes brands?

Hm, strange thing u're telling, but Thanks, i will check plates. In clutch piston camera on handlebar could be problem causing hard pushes or just plates?

Oh, why do u think clutch plates are warped?? I think they're fine. Or not?? I used Silkolene and most - Esso 2T oil but now start to buy Motorex. Piston not really goner. After some acid on the cilynder to remove aluminium and some works at piston it runs good. Piston not robbered a lot. So what can be with my stiff pushes? Which way i need to think?

Clatter was caused by rubbing piston (i think i forgot shake the jerrican before ride..) I was obliged to make restoration works on cylinder. Pic1 Pic2 Sometimes, not always. I don't see any defects with clutch inside... My clutch lever is pushing harder then need to be (i have friend's trials bike to compare) so after 15mins effective pushing lever, while doing some technique, my finger become not mine anymore.. refuse to bend! Does somebody had this kind of problem? Clutch line is without air! I tried to regulate bolt, but if it unscrewed to easy push - bike becomes deaf when pushing lever stationary, if bolt is srewed in full - bike not deaf when clutch in, but finger is suffer a lot! Since clutch rings are not worn-out, maybe there is something in piston camera and spring? Maybe spring is too stiff? Is it possible?

When i start bike after night stand or just after a lil brake all seems to be normal, but after few minutes riding appears problems. Symptoms: 1. Rattle in engine. Seems in cylinder. In addition for that reason become deaf at N gear, but even on any gear just shut off while ride (after couple mins riding). One more thing - when i rde out garage (engine rattling already i think) i open throttle but bike gave no traction (appeared one time).. Short video with sound of engine before and after - Rapidshare (sorry i changed names of video files occasionally. works bad means good and contrary) 2. Shifting gears become harder even with clutch lever pushed to handlebars. I use 10 W 40 oil as told in manual, 450cc Aral. Maybe 1 and 2 points linked? 3. Rear suspension become completely nothing. When i sit down on rear fender it must be springy and swing me little but it almost didnt swing. Two yellow rings on suspension set in normal to me point and i rode with them on that position long time without change. What might be the problem? After disassembling an engine is it possible to reassemble it with same cylinder head gasket or necessary to order and set new gasket? Thanks for any help!!!