lian

Lately i start notice i can't make straight wheelie... but last year i could. 1-st i thought i lost skills but when i have try friend's bike it was very good and straight. So i switch back to mine and again - wheelie to a side. I checked visually my rear tire and it was askewed a little like slash "/" (picture showing exaggerated tilt, picture have normal wheel). I put it off and turn axle contrary. But it helps just a bit.. tilt is present but a little less. Now i don't know what could cause this... swingarm is magnesium so it can't be bent/curved.. no craks. And it is not loosen spokes - wheel is always tilted in one side (spokes are hard). Need help pls!

I use epoxy in my scraps - i have a lot on 1 leg, so one time in about 2 months i put epoxy (for metal), leave for a 1 night and sandpaper it to a smooth line.

Hello everybody. Pls help me understand and find the reason... When hitting obstacle by bashplate, bike become stalled at once! It may be just falling from rear wheel on bash, or just trying to exit from sitting on bash by pushing bike forward but come back to stone and making a little hit, did not not made exit to the end. Strange phenomenon I fought it is carb, but it is ok when i checked it. Electric?? ----- A little prehistory: I have Kokusan Digital System V2, and noticed one strange thing - when i touch connector that is worn on the commutator and press a little in some direction, bike working on idle, begin losing RPMs, when i stop pressing, it may gaing RPMs again, but may just stall ----- So, after hitting an obstacle, i can not start bike with kickstarter, until..... i strongly press connector to commutator. After this 1-2 kicks and im riding again. Sad( But commutator is not strongly attached to frame inside, so connection between commutator and connector does not must feel some hits and juggle... so maybe i am searching in a wrong place? But from other side, how describe that fact of pressing connector to commutator and made bike finally started after bashplate hit...?

agreed! I dont understand how to make this? it is not possible to put it in http://fps.ua/forum/download/file.php?id=2415&mode=view

Tanks, willthink about it. Now i have other question - can i start bike without kicksarter, by running it down the slope and sit, dropping the clutch? Really want to ride, while part is coming from other country...

Can i set kickstart leaned more forward to have more motion to easier engage 300cc motor? Like this:

I have filter already.. This is my carb - i was told (and read on this forum) floats need to be parallel to carb line, but my seems to be not. Original floats pisition Now it parallel with finger help Does it cause the problem? How i need to fix that? Thanks.

Want to add my question on this subject. I have Keinin too and it have 2 nipples to let petrol out - one on the gear shifter side at the bottom of carb, and other on the opposite side near center of carb's height. So i have hoses on this 2 nipples and if bike fall on side, fuel is leaking from that nipple at the bottom of carb, but some time ago i started to admit fuel drop on the ground, where im training jumps on a border - there's asphalt so splats clearly seen on it. I stalled bike on gear, raise it on the rear wheel, front up like im doing high wheelie and wait. Few seconds later fuel start leaking from that other hose on the back side of carb, but first hose was dry as in normal condition. Pair of months ago there was no fuel leaking and splats from bashguard to the ground (bash now is always dirty from dust sticking to spilled fuel mix) and while i was wheeling there was not leaking too, even if i rised bike at stalling just like i described. Carb is cleaned few times, air filter cleaned, all seems to be normal... Also.. i think, this is outgoing from petrol leaking - i have a problems after jump on something (bike is in nearly vertical position before landing) - motor starts to hesitate and lose revs, like it going to stall (or out of fuel). Sometime it disappear in 10-15 secs - i need to waste my balance on waiting!, but sometime i stall. Many times have regulated fuel/air mix leaner or richer... nothing changed, just have a worst motor work after bike's vertical positions. Need an advise! Thanks.

+1 with breakage, but not case - pawl gear. i went home and open tech doc on my pc from march 2009, but later saw that doc at http://www.trialspartsusa.com dated june 2010 and there is different instructions about kickstart shaft alignment. what way is needed and why schemes are different? ps. how much can it cost (only pawl gear)? adding a picture.

by a new pipe is a sooo last decision, i can't spend 300+ usd, but Thanks for advice toofasttim, im in center of Ukraine, but was in Lvov couple of times. so perhaps i will chose your variant considering the most easy way of repairing dent. i dont know where to find specialists with torch and other.. so i need to cut exactly at previous weld line? will argon weld it back or titanium need some different welding type? and i will do protection like Copemech's. cheers.

Thanks all for variants! i tryed for interest freeze water in pipe in refrigarator, but it doesn't have effect, maybe mininum i can't see. spark, lowbrow, i suspect it will be needed to weld both holes to pressured air will not exit, but how to let this pressure in pipe? i will not do it myself i need to find someone but dont know who yet, but i need to understand process.. i find that methods hard to make and hard to find good specialists in this, especially with titanium material. i lean more to cut and weld back after restoration pipe's shape. but anyone know what type of weld i need to find to titanium? argon? with some defined electrodes? houseape1000, yes wheels is tiny) i have thought about some kind of metal angle, but at Cope's Sherco i see visualisation of my ideas. will need to do it too. after hit i have heard some kind of strange sound like metal ding or smth like that. Thought something happend with piston or rings after crash and they dings, but in garage took out pipe and piston looks ok, so what sound it may be? Maybe it is exhaust from cylinder in "new" redused shape of pipe caused such noise? Tryed to start bike without pipe to listen but was surprised by huuuge blows of sound from cylinder hole... turned it off immediatelly!

I have tryed to stand in here (16kb) and didn't hit brake in time so go forward and hit pipe with my and bike's weight So now my front pipe looks like this..... (202kb) It is much deformated and i think the bottom end power became flabby. What do i do to recover its shape? I have thought about cut (how to?) near the deformated place and somehow push it back.. but is it the only way? Besides, what welding will work on titanium material? And for the further safety, what kind of protection is possible to make or buy to avoid such foolish hit? (mostly i ride on indoor type of obstacles - "street") Thanks.

Thanks to u both! In the article is good advises and in last post is desired explanation what those bolts are! )

I got Ohlins shock and want understand is it adjustable? All it have is one bolt on the top and one on the bottom, so please somebody explain to me what is damping and preload? And what i don't need to touch Thnx!

You don't need to pull handlebars up by your arms, like in bike trials, here all is doing engine and suspension with your legs. Arms just hold the bars and pull it just a little up and forward. Right timing in dropping the clutch/jump with rebound of suspension - thats the key.

I learning jap zap to and learn it already about year. Now i finally got it how to do it right, but anyway, need more practicing. You need to have constant revs while pulling little wheelie, but have revs under slipping clutch. When you going to touch obstacle by front wheel, your body need to comes forward and holding that constant revs you just hit the obstacle and simultaneously jump/pop the clutch releasing quick blast of power. Your rear wheel want to jump of the ground. Now i am looking for advise about at what times i need use jap zap or splatter? Maybe some height is too high for jap or it depending of position i'd like to be after getting on obstacle? In many cases splatter and jap zap is almost similar by technic to get on a obstacle about 50-60cm (i always do splatter), so i wonder what is commonly use for it and safety for have 0 dabs? Thanks.

Recently have read that cylinder can be warm more cause carb did not regulated right - give richer mix. And from long work on rich mix will generate snuff in engine and muffler. It cause decreasing power, shoots from silencer and overheating cylinder, so cooler will work almost always... Check mix, maybe I need too...

Thank you. Better will buy some N.Y. presents)

Are there different rims for TT and TL tires?? I didn't know. I have tubeless rim. Yeah, H.C. too

Sorry 4 the question maybe already was on forum but i need quick answer... I have an offer to buy front/rear tires for a very cheap price form one enduro rider here. But they are from not heard for me brands - rear Metzeller tube type 3.50 - 18", front Barum 21". In case to have them to snow riding with tenons or have as spare tire it would be good, but im confused by width of rear 3.50 and tube type. Anybody knows how it use TT tire on rear in trials? Thanks!

elctb, i have the same "problem" but don't know why it always whirl and sound like spaceship...wiiiiiii! and 300cc model too.

Thank you, laser1, very cognitive. Will grasp...

Yesterday managed take off carb. It's clean inside. I have Keihin, fuel screw position is 360+180' from full turned in (clockwise), jet is "K" (like star) 45, if i remembered it right.

Silencer is fastening to top shock bolt, to rear brake cylinder and in one place almost above carb to right frame tube. If i will add 10mm of washers to top shock mount, then that 2 places (under frame tube and at rear brake cylinder) will not fit with silencer's fastening places, am i right? Or not?....

Wow, nice manual and video-library, Thanks. But... on video he didn't adjusted idle speed after each iteration. Is it ok to do like he did? By the way, that bogging sound i met sometimes (while bike rode jerky) and after giving more and more throttle, engine just bogging lower and lower and finally shut up. But bike actually rode well some time, between this annoying incidents... How it may to be explained?