the_moggster

Thanks Big Bird I can find mention in the manual of 3 bushes, Guide bushes, Slider Bushes and Fork Bushing, although I think 2 of those are the same thing possibly. .. Did you do the back up rings as well. Cheers

Hi all Just about to service my Showa forks, does anyone have a anything to add/remove/suggest to the list of the parts that should be replaced as part of the service. I was thinking :- Oil Oil seal Dust seal Centre bolt sealing washers Right leg fork bolt o'ring I see in the manual it mentions 2 specific tools are they both a necessary purchase before carrying out the service. Fork damper holder Fork Seal Driver Any thoughts. Cheers Moggster

Hi Chuck Sorry I ment to ask you to clarify your low end throttle response concerns. Do you mean in terms of engine pickup, squirtyness, sharpness, etc ??? Mog

Hi ya I didn't fit the carb, but have rebuilt it and fit new jets and slide, I will try and take some pictures of it today and post them later if not I will definitely get round to it at the weekend when I have a few other jobs to do on her. Been out again and still no problems with plug fouling, there was one point at which it wouldn't start and I think that was because I let it lie over and it caused it to flood. Couple of kicks with the Throttle fully open and it started no problems. Will take the plug out at the week end and inspect the colour. Cheers

Hi Guys, Gees haven't been on here for ages.. life has been up and down and not have time to out on the monty for ages, so sun was out sky was blue and life is good and monty started second kick.... been stood for nearly 3 years. Bike went all day yesterday sweet as a nut, no plug problems at all. The PWK carb was already on it when I brought it, I can find details of which one and the jets etc if anyone is interested still.

Hi all.... So sorry i haven't return sooner to bring this topic to its conclusion with a solution, just been so busy and haven't been out on bike for ages, but (touch wood) got it all sorted out now and about to get out riding again. Ok so... I replaced the worn slide and while i had the carb stripped to replace the slide i printed off a blow up of the carb and parts. And it was as i dismantled the old slide i noticed something, I can't for the life of workout how i missed before. The needle, despite having adjusted the clip position several times, wasn't held underneath the plastic shroud, between it and the top of the slide body but was instead through the top of the plastic, down into the slide, between the spring and the plastic, meaning the needle was a minimum of 6 mm high regardless of clip position, much to rich in the running! All put back together and so far ,,,, big difference and no fouling so far... which i would have expected to have happened already at least twice! So there is a possibility that it was the worn slide and no doubt this was a contributory factor to the overall poor running of the engine and there is a possibility that i just didn't put the needle back in the right place previously, however i don't remember moving it from the position above the plastic, as far as i can remember this is where it was when i stripped it down and adjusted the circlip in the first instance after buying the bike (previous owner ran the bike with a hotter plug to counter the fouling), in fact having just looked back at the pictures of the worn slide you can see the needle is sticking out the top of the slide despite the spring being firmly in place on top of the plastic collar in the top of the slide, according to my interpretation of the carb diagram it should be held in place by the plastic collar, which in turn is held in place by the spring. Hope that makes sense. On top of fitting the new slide and repositioning the needle to below the plastic collar and in so doing lowering the position of the needle by around 5mm I have also fitted you Boysen power reeds while i was doing it all..... So take your pick of what resolved the issue... Contestant No.1 New slide, (improved engine running in general) Contestant No.2 New Reeds, (smoother pick up, sharper and more power) Contestant No.3 In correctly positioned needle.... This one seems to be the most likely cause of the major issues of plug burn out! Cheers Simon

Hi Guys Sorry for the delay in my posting any progress or lack of it would be more accurate. Problem, when warmed up (hot) engine starts to sounds dull as the throttle starts to open and then you have to keep revs up a bit to keep it running, as it dies on tickover, eventually almost always underload, pulling up a climb and then opening it up to climb a step at the top it dies and stops and won't start again. If you leave it for 10 mins it will start again and run for about 10 secs and then no matter how much throttle you give it, it won't rev up it just dies. If you put a new plug in it fires up straight away and runs fine but this doesn't last long... The plug you take out is dry but heavily sooted! Have tried cleaning the fouled plugs (15 of them now) but brushing and cleaning with carb cleaner doesn't seem to work, they run ok for a short while and then they die again. Ok What I have tried in order to resolve the black sooty plug burn out issue on my 315. Replaced the Air Fliter with new Dual layer Jitsie. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Tried running slightly lean on the oil mix. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Stripped, and cleaned carb. Checked Header pipe for blockage. Repacked rear silencer. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Checked and cleaned Stator, fly wheel and coil. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Replaced Stator unit. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Replaced Needle and idle jet. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Lift the click on the needle one notch above middle. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Tried different positions with the air screw. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Ok were to go now??????? Check reed block? Reeds? Run a hotter plug? Change CDI unit? Spark plug cap? Ignition Coil? Middle exhaust box replace? I'm Going to do the slide and also the reeds as the slide is worn and if the reed block is coming off then i will upgrade the reeds to Boysen ones at the same time. Cheers all I will keep ploding along with this... p.s it is seriously cheesing me off now!! and my dad keeps saying "should have brought a beta rev 3" !!!!!! arggggghhh

Id be interseted as i currently dont have the sprocket or brake guard fitted, esp if they are cheaper than the carbon ones. Black or red. Cheers Simon

Hi Stork, Slide is Shocking!! not see one worn like that before, run with out an Air filter i think, well thats only thing I can think of! I hope we are both right on the needle and jets being the cause of the rich running, will find out tuesday I hope, if they arrive, if not i will be out riding with some spare plugs!! Cheers Simon

Definately think that lip on the slide isn't correct, and does anyone else think that this wear is likely to have been casused by running the bike without an airfilter, at sometime in its past. Don't think that this wear on the slide is responsible for the running rich as it is more likely to leak air passed the slide with this wear. Anyway I have ordered a new needle and jet to see if that helps and they look a bit worn and going by the damage to the slide it is possible that the worn needle could be the culprit for the rich running, also going to check the float level. I will keep you posted ticket2ride Lovely Day for a ride, shame!!!! Happy Riding

Hi ya, I used to have a Bultaco Sherpa 350 (I Think) that had been modded into a Mono Shock! It was the only one i had ever seen. Not sure what happened to it i will have to check with my Father see if he can recall. He still has a Bultaco Sherpa late model 6 speed which was a Sandiford 370 works bike.

Hi all Sorry to hear you have some prob Tickettoride but good to know im not the only one, and yes keeping in touch would be a good plan.!! BTW plug is dry and sooty. Wet Plug would certainly bring the piston rings into question. Ok Pictures first. TT5th, Yeah spot on with the oil, although I did try it a little leaner to see if that made any difference, but it didn't. Air leaks I will check the rubbers i'm thinking one on the Airbox side might not make to much different but certainly on other side might. If I do end up taking that side of then ill do the reeds at the same time, and rebuild the carb as its a pain to get the PWK back on Airbox side, had to take airbox out and fit carb to airbox and then slide it all back through frame. Which was easy in itself just would be easier if you didn't have to do it that way. Tried warming the rubber etc but wouldn't go on easy. Robbo, Haven't considered DI as the bike runs fine in the timing sense and spark is strong on clean plugs. Stork, The PWK is an "upgrade" (lol) over the original carb! Spoke to Steve at Allens Performance, who supplied the carb and he has given me some ideas, and i have sent him links to pics etc and will chat with him later. Update later! Slide 3.5 Main 118 Idle 40 Needle GFH Airscrew Variable!!

Hi ya, I have a Complete 315 manual in pdf format, on my pc at home, plus also have a full parts catalogue in pdf. If anyone wants a copy let me know and if its ok to put a sticky somewhere on the website or a link to it I can host it on my website or just email me. Cheers Simon

Hi guys, Whipped the slide out, its a GFH 3.5 Clip was in middle so have lifted it one place further up so dropping needle lower in slide. While slide was out I checked it over again and it looks to be to have a "step" or grove acoss it in and arc where it shuts over the Carb outlet. Should it be like this? Or should it be smooth, not looked inside a PWK before, and so im not sure, but it doesn't look right! If it is worn that could be a cause of the rich running! I have taken some pics and will post later. I have looked around the net for pics of a PWK slide but as usual if you want to find something specific the web is virtually useless!!! Anyone got a pic of a PWK slide?? Cheers Simon

I believe one of these venues is our family farm in barbrook. Same place my Monty keeps breaking down!! LOL

I have a Monty 315 fitted with a Keihin PWK 28 carb. This Bike is new to me. Ok guys this is what happens, Bike starts and runs fine, length of time running does seem to make a difference but eveytime i go out it fouls the plug, at first tick over starts to get uneven and its gets a bit smokey and you have to wind tick over thumb screw in. Then you can be pulling up a climb in 3rd, get to the top and then it loses power, and eventually dies, and wont kick over. Take plug out its black and sooty, put in new plug and away it goes first kick fine. At first i thought the plug was faulty BR6 IX (irriduim), fitted new one and off i went again. Next time out almost exactly the same place, died! Was out longer this time. But most had been me riding out across the moor so engine revs where higher, once i got back in to streams and wooden climbs it stopped, again sooty plug. Ok so first thing I did was to strip and Clean Carb and fit new Jitsie air filter, and check air screw setting, which was 1 1/2 turns, I upped this to 2 turns, then on advice of Sandifords I took ignition cover off and cleaned stator, which had obviously got wet and been left to stand at sometime. Ordered new spark plug, original one. BR6ES and fitted. Ok So out again short ride in woods, then blast out across moors, some technical stuff in the rivers and rocks, stop in farm for cup of tea, out back up through valley in and out of rock and trees, 3rd gear climb up out of valley shut of throttle to approach a hedge blipped throttle to hop up the wall, and flat dieing engine! full throttle in neutral bearly keep it running, smoked, but died! Original plug (first irriduim one that failed) brushed clean and back in, ran on tick over for about 4 mins, then died. Spare BR5ES got me back to truck. Called Geoff at Sandifords, suggested Stator rewind, ordered a new one instead, and new plug. Fitted New stator, check all connections, Took exhaust off and cleaned front pipe, Repacked and sealed silencer, Fitted Old Irridium plug to see if it worked with new stator, tick over was poor and it died, so fitted new plug and set out. 2 Mile across moors, down into valley in and out of rocks trees and streams about 30-45 mins, then stopped in farm to check out my old beta zero outfit, which never needed or fouled a plug until they were worn out. Started up rode off up track out across field into a little heavy mud 3rd gear lots of throttle, 4th across field slowed in gate way to hop up stone wall, wooly throttle then died!!! argggggggg Ok so BR5ES back in and back to truck!! Carb is PWK 28 118 main 40 idle Air Screw 2 1/2 turns. Jitsie Air Filter 80:1 premix (silkolene) I am guessing now that I have cleaned up the original spark plugs and they run ok until sooted up that it must be a fuel side problem and not an electrical side problem and as such it is seeming running to rich. QUESTIONS:- What should the Air screw be set at and are the jets the right size? Would fitting a hotter Running plug be a wise move? What else should I take a look at? Any suggestion would be helpfull. Cheers Simon

LOL thats funny... how about bannana skins or may be marbles... or perhaps a Dick Dasterly oil slick... LOL

I total agree with all the comments i have been riding and watching trails all my life in one format or another and the problem with indoor trials is that due to the nature of the material that is used to create section it is generally very consistant to ride and so throws up no variables or suprises, i.e moving stones, slipery roots, smooth wet rocks.. etc etc and there very rarely does there seem to be any variance in the way a section can be riden, which line to take etc and so it seems the only way that the organisers of this event, and i could be wrong but i thought the course was designed by The GREAT Jordi Tarres, thought they could make it hard enough to produce a clear winner and test Toni was to make the entrance to the sections so fffing hard and potential dangerous that only a hand full of them would be riden right through and only a few would even manage to get into the section. It was untterly boring, don't get me wrong Toni was awesome his control of the low down power of the 4rt was used almost faultlessly in obtaining and retaining grip, very rarely did the bike seem to get above a low growl. But Making sections that are so hard all we get to see is riders faling to even enter sections is a sure fire way to keep the sport marginalised in the way it is, which is a shame considering its potential to draw huge crowds. People don't want to see riders failing at every attemped that is not drama or entertainment. Take the world wide audience of WRESTLING a sport which i personally don't get. Millions watch and support and attend and cheer and buy merchandise for a "rehearsed Play Fight" yet despite this it is hugely popular, and that is down to the percieved level of drama and entertainment. Likewise with football it is the possibilty of an upset or suprise result, the drama of a red card or a penalty changing a game that makes it so popular. If trials persists with sections so predicatable and linear and continues down the route of almost totally unrideable design then Euro Sport ( Many Thanks to the programe planners for airing Trials) surely will start to see diminshing returns for their obviousl and considerable investment in televising the sport and so trials will go back to the dark days of no tv coverage. My final thought aptly is for the final section of the trial, introduce a bit of natural uneven surfaced tree trunks and you have argueably the best section of the night, riders got in ok , got caught out and had 5's, riders got through with the odd foot down but in the main it was riderable but took marks!!! Now can anyone tell me who it was who designed that section???? Me Thinks it was a legendary english trials rider!!

Hi all just brought a Monty 315R first solo trials bike i have owned, used to ride sidecar trials with my dad, he was an top class rider when he was younger and i rode with him for 8 years when i was old enough and really enjoyed it. Haven't riden solo much at all and its 15 years since i rode at all. Run a cycle shop here in North Devon Uk so still ride "bikes" . Really looking forward to getting out on it soon, but prepared to be completly rubbish. Would be nice to find out if there are any groups that practice/socially ride locally to me. Just got a couple of things on bike i want to sort, clutch needs a bleed and adjust, and possible clutch oil change as there is a bit of drag, and give a service. Aside from that it is in good condition, has had uprated calipers and wavey disks fitted, hebo footrests, and keihin carb, renthal bars. Cheers Simon