I'd be surprised if they chose to build trials bikes, I don't see there is any room in the market place for another brand starting out. If so it would have to be something very radical. But you never know!
Interestingly I have heard rumours that KTM off road will be phased out and their off road section will be focused on the current brands Huskies & Gassers. Which would mean there would not be a "KTM" branded trials bike but will remain as Gas Gas. Would be nice if they updated the current gas gas trials bike though. I have owed gas gas's since the first water-cooled version back in the early 90's. I have a 2021 300 one now that is still a great bike but I feel is now a little dated and could do with some improvements.
Have heard that Gas Gas has a new bike due out for 2023
That's the reason I ride the 250 which also has relocated pegs & modified top yoke to get the bars in a more modern position, a friend has a 175 Majesty that I find cramped, he's ridden my 250 & he is trying to duplicate the riding position down to spacing out the footpegs by around 25mm on 1 side & 50mm on the other which brings them out to modern widths & makes the bike feel more balanced
Reprinted manuals for heaps of bikes are available from e-classicbike.com , I've had a couple of different manuals from him. Stephen is a twinshock trials rider here in New Zealand, have ridden against him a few times on his Ossa gripper
Wossner do make a standard size piston, strangely enough TYtrials shows a 1st oversize for a 70.25mm bore then 2nd, 4th, 6th & 8th oversize, aftermarket pistons generally only come in 0.5mm steps so 2nd, 4th, 6th & 8th
Had a time with the OKO install today. First thing was that the fitting on top of the new carb has a fine pitch thread that is different than what was on my TKO throttle cable. That may not sound like much, but I don't have another cable kit to draw parts from, so I had to mill off the old fitting and cable ferrule and keep the inner stranded part of the cable intact. That went well, but not everybody has a milling machine and a lathe, so depending on what threads are on the end of your existing throttle cable, you might have to do some scrounging for parts. The OKO fitting has a large Inner Diameter that fits over the carb end of the cable, so that was a plus, but the main thing is not to have to wait on another delivery.
So with that done I started getting the OKO carb body mated up with the new rubber boot from Claus Studios. This was a bit more of a challenge as the opening on the OKO is larger than the TKO by about 4mm. I ended up making tapered plugs that were oversized for both ends of the new boot. These tapered plugs are inserted and left in the boot while the whole assembly is warmed up and then boiled with a lid on it for about 2-3 minutes. I had more trouble with the carb end than the airbox end and I would say that if you clamp the carb end first and leave the tapered plug in the airbox end till the last second, you stand a better chance of getting everything assembled correctly. I also had to take all the mounting bolts out of the airbox and let it float around as much as possible. After the carb is hose clamped to the boot, and the boot is hose clamped to the air box, you can insert the front end of the carb into the rubber manifold and I'm hoping the airbox will still bolt back down to the frame. The instructions with the kit are OK, but don't say what to do in case you can't get the new boot stretched over the carb intake diameter. I had to take the hot boiling pan and all out to the bike to keep it hot enough so that the boot didn't shrink down before I could get it in place. You only have about 5 seconds to get this done.
There are also a couple of considerations that you might want to think about if you are going to install an OKO on your TY 250 A.
#1 is that with the standard (furnished) metal float bowl- it is large enough that it touches the top of the gearcase. However, if you ordered the clear plastic float bowl, there will be more room under because there is no access plug for changing the jets.
#2- It might be necessary to have on hand another throttle cable kit. _ I was lucky to have the machinery to re-work the one I had- there is another work around - you could re- tap the carb cap to accept the threads of your existing throttle cable.
I should have the bike running tomorrow if all goes well- wish me luck!
What I've done with both my Jarvis & the TY is use the Dellorto threaded adjuster which screws into the OKO carb top perfectly & a Sherco cable for a Keihin carb as I use a modern throttle, it does run a slightly different route to the standard carb due to the cable coming out on a curve rather than straight up. Hopefully we can find some time to build the new airbox over the next month or so & I can get some decent testing done
Don't have it fitted yet as the plan is to make a more modern airbox with a short, straight connection to the carb but ran out of time to get it done before the 75th Kaikoura 3 day this weekend so I'm still running the standard carb with the modified airbox
Looking forward to finishing everything up & getting some testing done in the next couple of months
I've run a OKO on my Jarvis Replica for a large number of years, it's a nice carb that works far better than the original Dellorto down low & doesn't seem to overflow as much as Keihin PWKs do. Well worth the money as long as it's a genuine carb & not a chinese knockoff
The installation instructions from mid-atlantic mention needing to soften the up the hose to make it fit the OKO carb, only modification needed to fit the new carb.
The mikunis used on the TYs are unique to them, small float bowl & I think the airbox side is smaller than a generic new replacement mikuni measures. There isn't much clearance under the float bowl of the OKO but they fit straight in the cylinder side manifold so it's really only the airbox side that is different
Your original hose will have shrunk as well as hardened with age, the clauss studios hose fits perfectly with the standard carb etc so I think it should be able to fit the OKO with the boiling water treatment
It will probably be a good idea to get new airbox connector from clauss studios for the OKO carb, the bellmouth is bigger so you need to expand the rubber to fit & your original has probably gone hard with age & no amount of hot water will make it pliable enough to stretch to fit without splitting
I have the 28mm for mine but the plan is to remake the airbox with a straight hose & modern air filter in the lid design to get rid of all the restrictions
Can't remember what the number ended up being but they're on the the reed block in the 175 now. The 6TR108 look more correct, seem to come up as fitting Fantic on Italian sites
Normally when I bleed both the front brake & clutch I just jiggle the lever & let the air exit back to the master cylinder, takes time but you'd be surprised at how effective it is. Remember that the air wants to rise to the highest point
It's not possible that you folded part of the seal over when fitting the piston?
Watched 2 rims that weren't perfect get sealed using a mountain bike product that looked like thick sellotape last week & it definitely worked, didn't expect it to work when I saw the corrosion in the groove for the rim tape
I have a flanged Akront to fit to my TY250 as soon as I can find someone who can make me M4 spokes to match, already have the lefthand thread short spokes that attach to the rim.
Pressure loss should be very minimal even on your type of rim, my Sherco can sit for a month without going flat, that is with the later integrated valve stem type tape
Is that still Ducati Electronica ignition of Leonelli?
Have a look through the manuals pinned at the top, I'd set the stator back to standard position to start with & see if that helps. Splatshop has the readings for Leonelli stators on their site
Check the condition of the o-rings in the carb, if damaged they'll throw the jetting out
RD350 reed block is the same as TY250, material does need to be removed from intake to fit it, have done it to a friends 175 when I fitted a v-force reed block in my 250. From memory using the RD350 inlet rubber puts the carb central to the reed block which the 175 rubber isn't so it's probably the first step to make
I'd replace the thermoswitch, should come with the rubber gasket & retaining clip. You shouldn't be able to dislodge the switch unless something is wrong/missing
Start it in a dark garage & see if there is a spark escaping from a crack in the plug cap etc, once it's the easiest path due to dampness you lose all spark
Other possibility is blocked vent tube which is 1 piece with a notch cut out at the bottom, try removing the tube from 1 vent & see if a known situation still gives the problem
Jitsie
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Have heard that Gas Gas has a new bike due out for 2023