I'm guessing you already know this, but If you didnt know it is a two position switch which on position one should provide slightly more bottom torque and pickup and a flatter mid to top pull. Position two is slightly softer on the bottom until the midrange where the motor pulls harder thru to the top. Where I ride is mostly dry and plenty of grip so our U.S. spec bikes dont have an extra flywheel weight bolted on to the main flywheel. Like the previous poster mentioned if you remove the extra flywheel your motor will spoolup quicker. If your riding conditions require the extra flywheel you can install a Boyeson power wing in the carb intake and it will make the motor much stronger below 3/8 throttle. You can also remove a tooth from the counter shaft sprocket or add the titanium torque pipe. I hear that V-force reeds perk up the Beta motor very good from bottom to top. If you dont slip the clutch much you can also learn to slip the clutch more while holding the RPM up a little. You have many options availiable to add more pickup and power to the motor.
So out it comes, engine removed. Is there a manual for this bike available? 92/93 beta synt.
Hope you have some motorcycle repair savy because I think Beta sent their repair manual builder person out to pick figs and olives. The information book or disk that came with my EVO is the same as most other bike manufactures sales promotion lituature.
Chances are the 09 fender will be Spot on anyways they could be bent in all directions without snapping
I have a 1 1/2 years on my 09 fender and tore it halfway across yesterday. While 09 may be better than 2011. I have never seen any japanese plastic as brittle as Beta's. The new Sherco plastic is very flexible. Beta may have a problem with their supplier, but Beta seems to have always specked brittle plastic on their trials bikes. It's sad to think they might do this just to create revenue. I'm curious to know if their enduro bikes have brittle plastic too. Bet they dont.
I have seen someone at a local trials use zip ties wrapped around the sub fraim struts and thru the screw holes. He said the zip ties yield before the plastic. His bike is an 09.
It is unfortunate, but if you do the clutch mod thats pinned at the top of the Beta section and lower the trans oil to 425cc the clutch and trans will work better than new.
If you have a torque wrench. Check the setting of the bolts before you remove them. If your trying to soften the power of the motor some why not retard the ignition a few degres. You may get the drop in power that your looking for without taking the motor apart.
When the forks bottom on an EVO the tire will make contact with the exhaust header. You could lower the fork tubes some. Check your fork oil level and make sure its at least set at the factory setting. Mine was low on both sides. If it is set at the fatory setting raise it 3-5mm for more bottoming resistance.
I didnt know Toni Bou was on Beta before his Montesa ride. He had Beta setup the suspension very bouncy just like his Montesa. I wonder if Beta misses Toni just a little bit.
Nice videos. Thanks for posting them. I would love to be able to see the event live. I just noticed the TC tag at the begining of the videos. Thanks Andy. Really appreciate this section too.
I had a similar problem with my 09 290 evo. I solved the problem by doing the clutch mod pinned at the top of the Beta page. I also lowerd my transmission oil level to 425cc. I use a light viscosity oil. I know alot of riders like the clutch lever adjusted so that the clutch will begin to engage as soon as the lever begins to leave the top of their fingers. Adjusted this way the clutch will still drag when the lever is pulled tight to your fingers preventing a transmission shift or if you can get the transmission to shift you have used enough force that the transmission will move right past neutral into the next gear. This may not be for everyone but I have my clutch lever adjusted so that the clutch is fully disengaged when the lever is resting on the top of my fingers. The transmission will shift with the motor running while the bike is stopped with the clutch setup this way and neutral will be easyer to find. Mobster may be onto somthing about the weak selector spring.
Living in the U.S. I dont always hear how the trials scene plays out in Europe. I thought that the Sheffield event was the first round of the WITC. Hopefully Ossa and Mr. Fajardo will make it to the second round. I think that their are many people who would like to see him ride the bike in the company of other champ class riders. Best of luck To Mr. Fajardo and Ossa.
The transmission fluid is not getting out of the clutch pack after shutdown. If you perform the Dan Williams clutch mod thats pinned at the top of the Beta forum and refill your transmission with 425cc of your favorite transmission lube. The problem you describe will go away unless you have another issue with your clutch.
While any reason will do just fine if you plan not to show up at the first round of a series championship. It seems that Mr. Fajardo has just lost his oppertunity for a fourth place or better finish repeat. I would think for him as a young up and coming rider in the world champ class He would definitly want to be riding the event. Personaly I questioned his logic for leaving Beta for an unproven bike company. Hopefully he didnt burn his ties to Beta should Ossa not be able to provide a bike for him. Missing the second round too would surley mean Mr. Fajardo will be riding the rest of the series for exibition.
Since Jeroni Will be riding the Ossa??? who will be riding factory Beta in Jeroni's spot? I heard that U.S. champ Cody webb will be on Beta for 2011, and may have some kind of involvment with factory Beta in europe.
Try this link. This chart will take most of the guess work out of suspension tuning. I found approxamatly 1 1/2 to 2 centistokes change equals one click adjustment on japanese forks.
I think the manual says Bardahl or Bel-Ray 5wt. All 5wts are not the same. They all have a different centistoke value even if the bottle says 5wt. Use this chart to get an oil thats close to the oem oil.
Is this a new bike to you or is this a recent condition. Have you recently installed new brake pads. The pads may not be the same as oem pads. Some metallic pads are very quick to bite especialy when wet. Try a new set of oem pads. This condition might go away. Also do they drag. If so maybe your brake lever is not returning all the way out not allowing the master cylinder piston to return to its resting position.
Is the disc bent?
Eddy Lejuene
in Trials Videos
Posted
It's like slow motion supercross.