As far as I know the only adjustment is a two position switch located on the left side frame backbone plastic near the front. Position 1 offers better torque at low rpm very lienier midrange and topend power. Position 2 offers softer low rpm torgue and stronger midrange and topend power.
When i first got my 09 290 evo. The rebound damping adjuster on the rear shock had alot of friction. It was hard to turn and It broke off after a few turns. I think it was cross threaded when it was first assembled. The Importer replaced it under warranty. I believe the shock is rebuildable. I was able to open my Sachs shock to change the oil. It's a pretty easy job. Someone with mechanical savy and some basic shop tools could do it. A shrader valve must be installed to service the shock.
I wouldnt spend the money for a fork swap unless the forks are bent or unrepairable. Fixem so they hold oil and save your money for a newer bike. The way your riding your going to want a more current bike in the near future.
bhima, Your new bike is a lemon and so is that dealer. dont ride it anymore, dont clean it, dont repair it. Take it back to the dealer you bought it from and demand your money back.
Add a smaller outside diameter washer under each spring washer in the clutch to lighten the spring preload. I added a 3mm thick washer used for hex key bolts to the underside of the existing clutch spring washers. This is about equivelent to removing one spring. This will raise each bolt three millimeters when tightened. The clutch lever is now easily half the resistnce to pull in. With a rotory file chucked into a battery drill I had to remove the crosshatch bracing from inside the clutch cover to allow for clearance of the bolt heads. Along with doing the pinned clutch mods at the top of this section this clutch feel is now pretty sweet.
Add a smaller diameter washer under each spring in the clutch to lighten the spring preload. I added a 3mm thick washer used for hex key bolts to the underside of the existing clutch spring washers in my beta evo 290. The clutch lever is now easily half the resistnce to pull in. I dont know if you will need to do this, but with a rotory file chucked into a battery drill I had to remove the crosshatch bracing from inside the clutch cover to allow for clearance of the bolt heads.
It looks like you dont have your legs bent enough. Squat and flex your legs more. Also your weight is too far forward. Your relighing on the throttle to hold up the front wheel. Squat, Flex, and lean back more. It seems that your not using the suspension enough because of the straight leg technique. When you get to the top of the second rock hold pressure and quickly push into the suspension hard enough so that the bike will jump off the ground While blipping the throttle to launch the bike. Maybe yor bars are adjusted too far forward? Go to you tube and lookup Ryan Young videos. Or better yet Buy yourself a set of his DVD's.
In this video look at how the rider drops his knees to get over the rock.
I have Ryans DVD's, and I also took his class last year. I am a new trials rider and I think both are very good. I think the key to getting the information off the DVD is to pick one or two of the technical features explained in the video and work them until you have them learned. Than move on to another feature in the DVD. Also If possible ride with a partener who is a better rider than yourself. The one thing that i noticed about taking Ryans class versus learning from the DVD is that in the class Ryan is there to correct you when he notices you using improper technique. Using only the DVD as a tutorial you must correct youself. It helps if you have a friend watching to give you feedback about your technique or lack of it.
I had two pairs of the Novogar boots. Mine were the dark boots that looked like carbon fiber. Like the others said they took awhile to breakin, and were ok comfortable, but i had a problem with both pairs of boots that caused me to try a different brand. The lowest buckle strap tore off both pairs of boots within 4 months of use. First time was due to a minor tipover and the second was due to only using them. I now have a pair of oiled Garnes. I like them.
I cant believe you would trade your bike off over a leaking rear tire. Dont use silicone or any kind of sealant. Why? Because when it starts leaking again you will have a mess to clean up that will make you want to trade your bike for another. Simply disassemble your wheel and remove and clean the rimband and rim with dish soap. After a thourough cleaning use a product called Ru-glyde. It's designed for mounting tires. It is slippery and drys quick so you can reset the rimband and install the tire in a short amount of time. Use the lube on the tire mount too. After completing this process you will have a wheel that will hold air for more than a month.
I have a 09 evo, and needed to adjust mine beyond what the manufacture provided for adjustments. I found a way to open the damper and change the oil to a different viscosity. It does what i need it to now. I have not ever seen a Techno damper, but if the body is aluminum it might be very easy to open it up and change the oil. If you are going to be at the next RMTA trial at Lyons quarry I could have a look. or if you have a suspension tuner nearby you could take it to him.
Sorry to hear Pat Smage will not be competing in any more world rounds. I know he wasnt riding the top class, but knowing that he would be there soon made world trials was a little more exciting to follow. I was hoping to see him take the world crown from that spanish guy.
I have an 01 Rev3. I found it easyer to remove the right side down tube fraim member. The radiator came out very easy with this piece removed. The thermostat was in the top of the radiator.
Gday -it wont be rings. That will give you no compression. Oily black looking plug means too much oil, a dry lookinh black plug is fuel. Plug fouling in a 2 stroke is -
1. Wrong Plug
2. Too much oil - 70 to 1 in the Techno.
3. Too rich fuel mixture - Air Cleaner blocked, float level wrong, worn needle and needle jet (the ones under the slide) or someone "fixing" it in the past -wrong jetting. Go with standard settings.
4. Leaking Crank seal on the gearbox side - your trans. oil level will drop over a period of time as the engine sucks oil through.
Check it in that order. Clean the exhaust anyway, front to back.
Cheers,
Stork
While it's true that a worn set of rings will lower the compression they will also cause the motor to run rich because of the blowby occuring.
I have the same bike. When new it was ok and progressivly became harder to shift. I use Belray thumper oil for the tranny oil. I fixed it by doing the clutch mod that is pinned at the top of the page. It works better than new now.
Dont use silicone or any kind of sealant. Why? Because when it starts leaking again you will have a mess to clean up that will make you want to trade your bike for another. Simply disassemble your wheel and remove and clean the rimband and rim with dish soap. After a thourough cleaning use a product called Ru-glyde. It's designed for mounting tires. It is slippery and drys quick so you can reset the rimband and install the tire in a short amount of time. Use the lube on the tire mount too. After completing this process you will have a wheel that will hold air for more than a month.
Beta Evo Cdi Mapping Method
in Beta
Posted
As far as I know the only adjustment is a two position switch located on the left side frame backbone plastic near the front. Position 1 offers better torque at low rpm very lienier midrange and topend power. Position 2 offers softer low rpm torgue and stronger midrange and topend power.