ripa

Check this. It's too light for official trials: http://www.trial-club.com/webzine-trial/actualites/2011/mont-e-sa/ It is used by Hans Zenklusen in swiss adult trials competition. Here is another example, not a major player in trials, but I'm sure you all know KTM: http://www.twowheelsblog.com/post/6761/ktm-freeride-for-2012 Serious electric trials bike will be there much sooner than we expect...and it will change everything.

If the aluminium tube sitting between right and left bearing is too long, like in my bike it is, and you hammer the bearings as deep in as they go, the inner and outer rings are not in line any more. This might shorten their lives? I have a 2009 Evo 4t/250 and I bought these six months ago just to see if it is a question of quality or not: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/9117/SMR6904C2YSC3NB2-20x37x9 A very expensive test, hope they last for years...

I think I found the reason for the water leak. This has nothing to do with the original topic, but maybe good to know, anyway. There is a hole in the bearing housing of the water pump shaft. If the pump shaft oil seal brakes, water goes in the bearing housing and comes out through the hole. Here you can see the hole on the right side of the pic, and the water pump shaft on top of the cylinder head. The head gasket does not block the hole, only half of it, as you can see from the mark on the gasket. If there was no such hole, all water would mix with oil when the water pump shaft oil seal brakes. Ripa

Fpete, did you try cylinder head re-torquing? My 2009 4T/250 does not leak oil, it started to leak water today. Not just a few drops, but it was more like spitting when the engine was hot. Ripa

I have a 2009/250 4T, and I had the very same problem. The inlet rubber slipped off very often and I had to reinstall it at least once a week. Finally it broke. In my case I think misalignment was not the only reason for inlet rubber breakage, but there was a defect in the part, too. You can see it in the pic below; too smooth tear area to be a perfect inlet rubber? At the time it broke I could not get a new inlet rubber for several days. I went to a local technical rubber products selling store and bought a piece of a cooling system hose. I made it almost 10 mm longer than the original inlet rubber to make it sit better in it's place and get rid of the stretch. A beginner like me does not feel any difference in power delivery, how the engine reacts or in anything at all. The only difference is that I don't have to reinstall the inlet rubber weekly any more. I do have the original part now, but I don't put it in until I find the reason why there is such a misalignmet. In the pic You can see how misaligned carb bends the hose. Reckon it's the part between the airbox and the carb that is not perfectly in it's place and misaligns the carb. Maybe it's too far from the carb, too and thus stretching the inlet rubber? I'll fix it when it's too cold to drive in January.

Hi Problems with electrics is always a pain in the ass. I had same problem with my evo 4T. The fan was spinning very slowly. The other symptom was that the engine stopped when the fan started. With high revs the engine did not stop but the fan was not spinning like it should. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=31686 You can find the capacitor on top of the carb in 4t, don

Suddenly the engine stopped in the middle of a forest. It started again with kickstart but stopped almost immediately. After 10 minutes brake the angine started again and ran normally. I was happy I would not have to push the bike home two kilometers through the woods. I was wrong. The engine stopped always when it got hot and the fan started. The other symptom was fan running extremely slowly. Finally I found the reason, a loose lead of a capacitor:

Thanks for all your help in explaining how to set valve clearances. I bought a used Evo4T/250 from BVM a few months ago. Maybe one of you is the previous owner of the bike? It's in Finland now and waits for summer in my garage There is no other manual to find in the Internet than the owner's manual, and it does not help if you want to do anything more complicated than change the engine oil. It does not even tell the clerances. So thank you very much for your help, especially you Fivemeister. I just adjusted valve clearances, both inlet and exhaust, without disturbing the engine. There is plenty of space to operate with the nuts, not so much space to use feeler gauge. For inlet valves I made a special feeler gauge per valve. For both exhaust valves one special feeler gauge was ok. You need three special feeler gauges to do the business without rocking the engine. From left to right: gauge for exhaust valves, right-hand side inlet valve and left-hand side inlet valve. I did the adjusting because of noisy valves. A friend of mine said the noise would be no problem. More dangerous it is if valves make no noise at all. I did it anyway. Somebody said these machines should sound like a sewing machine when valve clearances are set right. Mine sounds like a sewing machine now. And I am proud of myself Thanks.