bultacoboy Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Hi I am rebuilding a bultaco sherpa 250 with a view to having a go at twinshocking so am keeping it as original as possible but fitting it with practical bits as well. My question is i have just got some weld on big footrests from Dave Renhams to fit before i respray the frame and want to know if they should be fitted in the same position as the original puny items or is there a modification that would benefit the bike and me?ie upwards or backwards slightly? Thankyou in advance. John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fargone Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 (edited) Try this, hope it help's http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....=13&t=11158 Edited February 13, 2007 by 2fargone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutrader1 Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Is your bike a 198 or 198a? if it is 198 with sub frame still in tact, you can lower your pegs further than 198a. I have just welded mine on, welded the bottom corner of bracket inline with bottom of main frame mounting for skid plate, the arc that the section of frame at rear is almost the correct angle placement for sherco pegs,, weld the rear section of bracket as far back as possible keeping that you still can achieve a good penetration of weld. not sure of your type of pegs but make sure your pivot bolt is not lower than the skid plate, could come to one very nasty stop. will post a pic if i can find camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Hello John, I fitted brackets to my 1978 Sherpa (198 model?) to take those stainless Gas Gas footrests. Best to get the brackets as far back as possible and as practically low as possible. Even with the rests low and back, they still feel too high and too far forward when compared to a modern bike. Bye, Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bultacoboy Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Cheers for that everybody. I am now going to weld my pegs as low and as far back as i can while still keeping the whole of the welds on the stong flat plate section of the frame as i am a big six footer! Best to get the position right with good advice before i spray the frame> John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dom1 Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 Any other useful mods for a 199a? need all the help I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 Hello dom1, What country are you from? Is your bike a 250 or 325 - Below applies to both capacities. Best mod to do is to fit a decent carb. I use a DellOrto PHBL 26 BS straight off a modern 250-280-300 Gas Gas. Fit a 95 main jet and the rest of the jets/needle are fine as they are. (D36 needle, second notch off the bottom, 270K needle jet, 30 pilot, 60 slide). It should fit straight on to the existing rubbers. At this stage you can also fit a new Domino throttle assy with a GG t'cable. Set ign points at 15 thou, I usually set the ign timing a bit advanced, around 3 to 3.5mm BTDC. 5 1/2 inch Renthals. The aluminium rear wheel axle from a Gasser goes straight in and saves a bit of weight, also I use the larger eccentric Raga chain cams. Have fitted the Alpina (not sure if this was sold in the UK - it's a trail bike version with wider spaced gear ratios) front wheel as it has a much larger front brake and ideal for nose wheelies - needs a bit of fettling to fit in. Machine up two 25mm long nylon spacers for the top of the fork springs, they always felt saggy, even from new. This should keep you busy for this weekend. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 we always used to move the foot rests back 1/2" or so and work from there. A bing carb set up right is fine no real need to change to dellorto imho. Set the ignition to suit 2 .2 for bottom end 2.8 for zippy (well as much as you can get) rings and piston in tip top condition frontera plates, grind off stops, rod brake shorten clutch cable long arm for brakes grease and bush brake pivots spacer in fork springs integral air filter captive nut in seat ally kick start and just tidy up everything really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 we always used to move the foot rests back 1/2" or so and work from there.A bing carb set up right is fine no real need to change to dellorto imho. Set the ignition to suit 2 .2 for bottom end 2.8 for zippy (well as much as you can get) rings and piston in tip top condition frontera plates, grind off stops, rod brake shorten clutch cable long arm for brakes grease and bush brake pivots spacer in fork springs integral air filter captive nut in seat ally kick start and just tidy up everything really. Nigel with you up to the bit about "shorten clutch cable" Why would i want to shorten the clutch cable? Where do i get an ally kickstart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 OTF actually new mod this one courtesy of bigwigg. imagine a clock and then the original cable pulls through from say 4 to 2ish/ shorter cable makes it 1 to 11 and should help with action. remebering to have lavishly greased the clutch rod and the arm first of course, you can use a longer arm but set right it gives a good feel at the lever, new cale lubed with teflon spray of course but you know that bit. I lost an ally kickstart in hemel hempstead high street in 83 but doubt if its still there............ maybe you could modify a beta one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 OTF actually new mod this one courtesy of bigwigg.imagine a clock and then the original cable pulls through from say 4 to 2ish/ shorter cable makes it 1 to 11 and should help with action. remebering to have lavishly greased the clutch rod and the arm first of course, you can use a longer arm but set right it gives a good feel at the lever, new cale lubed with teflon spray of course but you know that bit. I lost an ally kickstart in hemel hempstead high street in 83 but doubt if its still there............ maybe you could modify a beta one? Thanks for the reply but me still no understandy. Thanks anyway i'm sure it's a good mod. I understand the longer arm so will stick with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 OTF actually new mod this one courtesy of bigwigg.imagine a clock and then the original cable pulls through from say 4 to 2ish/ shorter cable makes it 1 to 11 and should help with action. remebering to have lavishly greased the clutch rod and the arm first of course, you can use a longer arm but set right it gives a good feel at the lever, new cale lubed with teflon spray of course but you know that bit. I lost an ally kickstart in hemel hempstead high street in 83 but doubt if its still there............ maybe you could modify a beta one? Thanks for the reply but me still no understandy. Thanks anyway i'm sure it's a good mod. I understand the longer arm so will stick with that. imagine its shorter and move the arm to where it would be the position of the "sweep" is a tangent to the circle in line with the cable rather than at an angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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