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Help! Tyz 250


jamese.82
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Hello people! i need some desperate help....i'm stripping my bike to change the crank shaft oil seals, i think that is what is wrong with it anyway??? (it's oiling up in the cylinder and killing spark plugs!) i can't get the flywheel off, do i need a special tool and if yes where do i get one! any advice would be of great assistance! the sooner it is fixed the sooner i can ride again!!!! cheers james. :)

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Hello James,

You will need the specific flywheel extractor for this bike. I have not worked on a TYZ so can not comment on the exact nature. The flywheel (magneto) is located on a tapered shaft with a woodruff key, an extractor is needed to break the taper.

As for the oiling up - this would usually occur if the fuel/oil ratio was too oil rich, or the carb was letting in too much fuel, or the exhaust/silencer system was choked or the bore was really worn out or the clutch side crankshaft oil seal was passing - in which case you would not need to remove the flywheel. Bit hard to sort out without seeing the bike.

Bye, PeterB.

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Hello James,

You will need the specific flywheel extractor for this bike. I have not worked on a TYZ so can not comment on the exact nature. The flywheel (magneto) is located on a tapered shaft with a woodruff key, an extractor is needed to break the taper.

As for the oiling up - this would usually occur if the fuel/oil ratio was too oil rich, or the carb was letting in too much fuel, or the exhaust/silencer system was choked or the bore was really worn out or the clutch side crankshaft oil seal was passing - in which case you would not need to remove the flywheel. Bit hard to sort out without seeing the bike.

Bye, PeterB.

cheers peter, well fuel mix has been spot on; and i did wonder about the fuel and air mix but don't know the right settings or which screws do what! i haven't got a manual! some people can do it by ear but i can't, well not with 2 stroke n e ways. clutch side is off, waiting for delivery of the new seals just thought it best do both, any more thoughts please let me know cheers, james

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Hello people! i need some desperate help....i'm stripping my bike to change the crank shaft oil seals, i think that is what is wrong with it anyway??? (it's oiling up in the cylinder and killing spark plugs!) i can't get the flywheel off, do i need a special tool and if yes where do i get one! any advice would be of great assistance! the sooner it is fixed the sooner i can ride again!!!! cheers james. :)

Unless you are made of money, don't pull anything apart till you know what is wrong with your Z.

You need a much better diagnosis. I'll try and help. First off you need to describe the symptoms much more clearly. Why do you think it is "oiling up the cylinder" and what do you mean by killing spark plugs? There are many reasons for losing spark and changing the crank seals is probably the last on the suspect list and the most expensive to do.

If your crank seal on the clutch side has failed, gearbox oil will be getting sucked into the engine so you can easily diagnose this by the gearbox oil level going down with use and the exhaust gas being very smoky and smelling unusual.

Your spark problems may be something much easier to fix so how about some better information about what is happening with the bike.

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Hello people! i need some desperate help....i'm stripping my bike to change the crank shaft oil seals, i think that is what is wrong with it anyway??? (it's oiling up in the cylinder and killing spark plugs!) i can't get the flywheel off, do i need a special tool and if yes where do i get one! any advice would be of great assistance! the sooner it is fixed the sooner i can ride again!!!! cheers james. :)

Unless you are made of money, don't pull anything apart till you know what is wrong with your Z.

You need a much better diagnosis. I'll try and help. First off you need to describe the symptoms much more clearly. Why do you think it is "oiling up the cylinder" and what do you mean by killing spark plugs? There are many reasons for losing spark and changing the crank seals is probably the last on the suspect list and the most expensive to do.

If your crank seal on the clutch side has failed, gearbox oil will be getting sucked into the engine so you can easily diagnose this by the gearbox oil level going down with use and the exhaust gas being very smoky and smelling unusual.

Your spark problems may be something much easier to fix so how about some better information about what is happening with the bike.

basically when laboured it will rev up and then deteriorate until engine has stopped....then not start again until i have put a new plug in it and fine for a while then same again....and again lol on inspection plugs are black and very sooty and wet....smell not like fuel too. not sure bout smell of smoke i'm always at the not smelly end but it definately smokes! lots when laboured. haven't measured the oil so not sure about that...is that enough? cheers oh yeah and definately not made of money otherwise would pay someone else to do it or have a new bike! lol

Edited by jamese.82
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What tools have you got access to ?

how much two stroke do you normally mix per five litres of fuel ?

fuel to oil is 50:1 that is what i run all my two strokes at as for tools got too many to list, why wot do u think i need?

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You should be able to make a flywheel puller fairly easily. From memory, assuming yours is the purple wheeled model, you need a strong plate of metal (ie, one that won't bend under strain) drill a centre hole and tap a thread in it to take a bolt which will screw up against the crankshaft. Ideally, taper the end of it so it doesn't damage the crankshaft thread. Drill 3 8mm in a triangle around the centre hole to match the three holes with 8mm threads that are in the flywheel. Put three equal length 8mm bolts trhough the holes and screw them into the flywheel. Be very careful not to screw them too far into the flywheel as if they protrude through the other side they will wreck the coil windings if you turn the flywheel. Screw the centre bolt through the centre hole and keep on until it touches the end of the crank. Keep on tightening and the metal plate will be pulled backwards away from the flywheel until it comes up against the bolt heads. Keep on tightening the centre bolt and it should pull off the flywheel. It helps to keep tapping the flywheel with a hide or copper mallet when it is under tension to shock it free as if it has never been off it will be very tight.

You'll have to work out lengths of bolts etc. The centre bolt needs to be longer than the other 3 and needs to be a strong enough thread that it won't strip, so 10 - 12mm? and the plate should be 8mm thich as a minimum? Similarly, the 8mm bolts need to be screwed into the flywheel far enough that they won't pull out of the threads under load, but not too far in for the reason above.

This is from memory as it was a long time ago that I made one for mine and have no idea where it is now, but it should give you the idea of what to do.

If you are going to buy one, there were 3 different flywheels fitted during the production run of the TYZ and they all take different pullers, so make sure you give the dealer the engine number so you get the right one.

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You should be able to make a flywheel puller fairly easily. From memory, assuming yours is the purple wheeled model, you need a strong plate of metal (ie, one that won't bend under strain) drill a centre hole and tap a thread in it to take a bolt which will screw up against the crankshaft. Ideally, taper the end of it so it doesn't damage the crankshaft thread. Drill 3 8mm in a triangle around the centre hole to match the three holes with 8mm threads that are in the flywheel. Put three equal length 8mm bolts trhough the holes and screw them into the flywheel. Be very careful not to screw them too far into the flywheel as if they protrude through the other side they will wreck the coil windings if you turn the flywheel. Screw the centre bolt through the centre hole and keep on until it touches the end of the crank. Keep on tightening and the metal plate will be pulled backwards away from the flywheel until it comes up against the bolt heads. Keep on tightening the centre bolt and it should pull off the flywheel. It helps to keep tapping the flywheel with a hide or copper mallet when it is under tension to shock it free as if it has never been off it will be very tight.

You'll have to work out lengths of bolts etc. The centre bolt needs to be longer than the other 3 and needs to be a strong enough thread that it won't strip, so 10 - 12mm? and the plate should be 8mm thich as a minimum? Similarly, the 8mm bolts need to be screwed into the flywheel far enough that they won't pull out of the threads under load, but not too far in for the reason above.

This is from memory as it was a long time ago that I made one for mine and have no idea where it is now, but it should give you the idea of what to do.

If you are going to buy one, there were 3 different flywheels fitted during the production run of the TYZ and they all take different pullers, so make sure you give the dealer the engine number so you get the right one.

Thanks woody that should keep me busy for a while cheers.

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