Cub Pvl Electronic Ignition.

[sir trial a lot]

Hi Guys. Ive just got the Miller PVL ignition kit through for my triumph cub and the instructions are quite literally sh*te!! One guy i talked to said you need to split the engine cases to do the modifications needed and others say this is not needed. So basically. what do i do? and how do i do it. the miller instructions are'nt worth having really. thanks for any help.

Edited June 14, 2007 by sir trial a lot

[old trials fanatic]

Hard to help you on this one as i have only fitted one to a B40.

This is one of the reasons, in a previous post about C15 pvl ign, i said "go to a man who knows. He may not be the cheapest but you get what you pay for. Cheapest isnt always the best."

Bit difficult now as you have chosen to spend your money with Mr Miller. Dont say there werent enough warnings on here.

You could give alan Whitton a ring 01246 419805 and see if he is willing to help you but as you did not buy your ignition off him it is down to how philanthropic he feels. all part of the service when you buy off Alan.

Give him a call anyway as he can do the mods for you.

I have no connection with Race Engineering other than being a satisfied customer

[trickymicky]

Hi Guys. Ive just got the Miller PVL ignition kit through for my triumph cub and the instructions are quite literally sh*te!! One guy i talked to said you need to split the engine cases to do the modifications needed and others say this is not needed. So basically. what do i do? and how do i do it. the miller instructions are'nt worth having really. thanks for any help.

The engine needs to be stripped- 3 alloy mounting posts are fitted, and then accurately machined. It a job for a specialist i'm afraid. This subject was discussed elsewhere on here only last week, and the general opinion was that its best to source the parts from someone such as Alan Whitton who will also carry out the machining and provide support afterwards if there are any problems.

Its a good idea whilst it's in bits and the crankcase half set up for machining, tn. have a 'window' cut in behind the clutch, so the gearbox sprocket can be replaced without a complete engine strip dowm

[alan]

Hi Guys. Ive just got the Miller PVL ignition kit through for my triumph cub and the instructions are quite literally sh*te!! One guy i talked to said you need to split the engine cases to do the modifications needed and others say this is not needed. So basically. what do i do? and how do i do it. the miller instructions are'nt worth having really. thanks for any help.

The problem is that you have to somehow mount the stator so that it is concentric to and in line with the rotor.

On bikes like C15 's you can use the alternator stator mountings, but cubs mounted the alternator stator on the primary chain case. You could in theory mount to the primary chain case but you would not be able to adjust the timing or check that the rotor is not rubbing on the stator.

The only sensible way is to mount to the crankcases. This is usually done by welding aluminium pillors in the right places. The pillors have to be 120 degrees apart, in the right orientation (or you will not be able to get the chain case cover back on) concentric to the crank, on the right PCD and the right height.

The way it is usually done is to split the crank cases, put the casing on the milling machine, spot face flat pads to weld the pillors to, drill through the pads in the right place. The pillors are drilled and tapped so that they can be bolted to the case from the inside. After the pillors have been welded on, put back on the miller and machine all the pillors to the correct height.

While you are at it you may as well mod the back of the housing so that you can change the engine sproket without a massive strip down job.

Then all you have to do is rebuild your engine !!!!

Once again Alan Whitton can do all this for you.

I have heard of this been done from the outside with the engine assembled, using a dremel to create the pads, threaded pillors locktited in, but a lot of skill is required to get this right and there is a risk of swarf in the crankcases.

I beleive someone is selling ignition kits designed for cubs that does away with the crankcase mounting, i have not seen one yet so cannot comment

But in my opinion, do it right first time !!

[totalshell]

well the good news is that once fitted and working you won't believe the difference. On the other hand the machining probably would be better done with the engine on the bench at least. insitu in the frame it probably could be done with a dremel or something like that. I didnt fit mine originally but i have had it in bits a couple of times when messing with the clutch.

i'd get someone to do it who has done it before or do it with them or at least take one apart that has been done to understand how much and where.

sorry if thats a bit vague..

Edited June 14, 2007 by totalshell

[subira]

This might help

http://www.cubsite.com/cubforum/viewthread.php?tid=212

[charlie prescott]

Hi Guys,

All the above is right, DON'T Forget if you try to fit yourself and make a mess of it, You have got to start looking for a pair of new crankcases. The late ones with two bearings are getting few and far between, This is the problem people sell them just to make money and dont care how you fit them. I agree with the other guys Contact Alan Whitten. or may be Terry Weedy for down south.

Regards Charlie.

[b40rt]

Have you got it fitted yet ?

[jack_the_lad]

Hi Alan and Charlie

All is not correct above . Before you give advice make shure what you say is correct. The posts are not all spaced at 120 degrees. I know that because I also machine the crankcases and fit the posts.

Jack