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New 2008 290

Featured Replies

Hi

I have picked up my new 290 :rolleyes:

1st new bike i have owned , Got all the usual take it slow stuff from the dealer , but is there any specific way that is best to run it in ?

Anything to watch out for ? Should i run it richer untill beded in ? . I did asked all these questions but just kept getting told to take it easy for 10h then swap the oil and do a check over on the bike.

Hoping to go out sunday and get at least 5h on it :)

Any advice would be nice .

Cheers

James

Seems that is about right! Vary the power ans stay away from the ultra high revs and continuous high speed runs. And always inspect your airbox for water after a wash! Have fun! :rolleyes:

Check the spokes in the rear wheel - BEFORE and AFTER your first ride - Also check the alan bolts on the fork triple crown - just make sure they are tight but do not overtighten. -

Seems that is about right! Vary the power ans stay away from the ultra high revs and continuous high speed runs. And always inspect your airbox for water after a wash! Have fun! :rolleyes:

Check the spokes in the rear wheel - BEFORE and AFTER your first ride - Also check the alan bolts on the fork triple crown - just make sure they are tight but do not overtighten.

Good advice. Probably if you're starting out, one of the best ways to break-in a new bike is to ride reasonably easy sections and concentrating on the basics (like practicing figure 8s on a slight hill) will help you get a feel for how this bike is different from your other ones. The on-off throttle works to bed in the machined parts without causing localized "hot spots" in the engine and you won't get bored riding around in circles :) I like to change the oil after a fairly long first ride which is when there will be normal swarf in the transmission oil from the machining operations.

Jon

  • Author
Good advice. Probably if you're starting out, one of the best ways to break-in a new bike is to ride reasonably easy sections and concentrating on the basics (like practicing figure 8s on a slight hill) will help you get a feel for how this bike is different from your other ones. The on-off throttle works to bed in the machined parts without causing localized "hot spots" in the engine and you won't get bored riding around in circles :rolleyes: I like to change the oil after a fairly long first ride which is when there will be normal swarf in the transmission oil from the machining operations.

Jon

Hi

Thanks , allways nice to get a 2nd and 3rd opion :)

Cheers

Check the spokes in the rear wheel - BEFORE and AFTER your first ride - Also check the alan bolts on the fork triple crown - just make sure they are tight but do not overtighten. -

Gawd, Dave, don't get me started on this just after my recent revamp, yes I have red rims now!!!!!!!!!!!!! Friggin beauties on the '07!!!!!!!!

But since you have done me in already,

Ck the spokes for tension and torque ,but do not overtighten! If you seem to have one that is a bit loose , just snug it up till you get a bit of "ring" out of it. They just need to be basically even with some tension. Not too much.

On the rear, there is an OFFSET! Do not attempt to put as much tension by tone on the left side spokes. The right side is fairly tought, the left a bit just over snug, if you get my drift here. Do not start trying to bring them up to equal tension as the other side, as the length is different! Right Tight, Left Snug, and once again, just try to give any settling ones a nudge or you will get things all screwed up!

This starts me on the latest COPEMECH tech tip,

As NEW, there is likely no corrosion in the nipples, and if you want to keep it that way, take the tires off and pack every threaded niple with either Dow Corning 111 compound or DC4 compound , either of which is a thick silecone based compound. Then dab a bit to cover the tops of the nipples before installing the rim bands. This totally helps prevent water entry and corrosion. Fortunatly, at least the Sherco nipples have a slot on top and most nipples can be done with a simple large screwdriver individually and re torquing the same by hand as to not get anything out of alignment. It just takes time. But just like all the other bolts and such that should be lubed or anti-siezed when new, an ounce of prevention?

Sort of makes me glad I hav not gotton a new one to prep this year, takes me a long time to strip and re do everything just to suit! But you never know how much grief it may save you in the long run!

And thats all I have to say about that! :rolleyes:

Neo, there is no current plan to update the manuals, for the most part they are still applicable. I talked to Ryan Young about it and he does not see any need to update them as the chassis and engine have not had any significant changes.

Wayne

I've had an 08 290 since October last year and have recently cleaned out the tank. Full of swarf from drilling out the fuel tap hole during manufacturing. Shame Sherco!

Put a Cab head and Kiehin on after run in and did notice heat marks on the barrel. Cleaned up well. Thought I took it easy but obviously not enough. Stay away from hillclimbs.

My first tank was 50:1 and 80:1 after that. Have also put a set of boysen reeds in. Even though it's tuned lean just off throttle the power is incredibly smooth. LOVE IT!

You'll notice a big change in the bike (engine and suspension) after a month or two. Last bit of advice, keep checking everything with a thread.

Hope this helped.

Mark.

  • 2 weeks later...

Make sure to waterproof the bike as much as you can if you are going to be riding in wet conditions, water comes spraying from the front wheel up under the tank and straight into the airbox if you dont.

On my 07 I have a plate around the exhaust at the front and have sealed up anywhere I can using silicone sealant as the airbox was filling with water everytine it was raining

cheers

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