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Clutch Drag Questions....... Again!


franky
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I've been looking through the posts and now i'm a little confused!

The bikes a 2002 montesa 315r, the clutch drags on it so how do I sort it, a full set of steel and cork plates or can I put in the correct oil(which is elf? where do I get it!?) and lightly roughen up the steel plates, or is there an aftermarket jobbie that will solve it forever?

I'm a novice so the cluch drag is causing more issues than it would most! I just want to sort it but not waste money if it doesn't need to be spent!

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I've been looking through the posts and now i'm a little confused!

The bikes a 2002 montesa 315r, the clutch drags on it so how do I sort it, a full set of steel and cork plates or can I put in the correct oil(which is elf? where do I get it!?) and lightly roughen up the steel plates, or is there an aftermarket jobbie that will solve it forever?

I'm a novice so the cluch drag is causing more issues than it would most! I just want to sort it but not waste money if it doesn't need to be spent!

I havnt read your other posts,so i dont know what you have done to solve this problem.Have you made sure that there is no fluid pushing past the seals in the master cylinder at the lever??I had this exact fault on my sons 03 gasser.A new piston with seals costs around a tenner.A lot of people say the best oil is dextron 3 ATF,not sure if its good for the mont,but you can buy this in most car shops.If there are any seals at the clutch end,check these also.Sounds like you are losing pressure. B)

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I havnt read your other posts,so i dont know what you have done to solve this problem.Have you made sure that there is no fluid pushing past the seals in the master cylinder at the lever??I had this exact fault on my sons 03 gasser.A new piston with seals costs around a tenner.A lot of people say the best oil is dextron 3 ATF,not sure if its good for the mont,but you can buy this in most car shops.If there are any seals at the clutch end,check these also.Sounds like you are losing pressure. B)

I use the latest dextron 3,it's semi synthetic,change it every 4 trials + maybe 2 practice sessions,i get mine in 5ltr containers at about

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another trick i've been told to do,is tape the lever to the bar when the bike is stood. :banana2:

I wondered about doing that,but i dont think its a good idea because the seals will be under pressure contantly and they might leak.

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I`ve asked around about this problem, and everyone seems to have cured it in a different way.

Some have cured the drag by just using a lighter oil, others have changed the steel or fibre plates.

Sandifords recommend buying a CR 250 clutch kit but only use 5 of the plates (kit contains 6)

Haven recommend buying a fibre plate kit from them.

To try and cure mine, I first changed the oil to a different brand, but that didnt work, so then took the plates out and roughened the steel ones up, that worked a little bit. The next option is to try the fibre plates from Haven, at

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Have had 3 3i5s and now 4rt, ATF definitely worth a try as cost only a few quid, 5 mins to change and no draw backs. Also had a leaky master cyl seal on anew 200 35 so worth checking if the clutch initially clears and then starts to grab as oil leaks past the master cyl seal.

All the best

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its a persistant problem, 99 percent sure its not the clutch m/c. I'll try the dextron 3 and doing the plates and see what that brings, after that i might have to spend some money. thanks for the help

i'll let you know what if any each change brings.

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Hi All,

I had the clutch drag when I bought my 315 also, here are the three things that fixed mine totaly.

1 Drained the gear box oil and refilled the correct amount of Dextron ATF rather than the elf oil. Be warned this is not the specified oil for this bike, it is just my personal view.

2 Bleed the clutch using a long tube into a bottle and getting the bike high as possible and the bottle low as possible sets up a gravity feed and is the best easy way of fast flowing fluid to remove any air, don't be shy with the fluid an extra

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its a persistant problem, 99 percent sure its not the clutch m/c. I'll try the dextron 3 and doing the plates and see what that brings, after that i might have to spend some money. thanks for the help

i'll let you know what if any each change brings.

You need to be 100% sure.Spend a tenner on a new piston/seals,then you can rule it out.I was 99% sure when i had the problem,but the new piston cured it for me.

Hope you get it sorted

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.....................'' the bike is stood ''?????....................what does this mean???

Sorry,forgot this is an international site! I mean when the bike is in the workshop,inbetween rides or just not been riden ie on trailer,e.t.c. :banana2:

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An Update.........

I took the clutch apart, sanded the steel plates with 320 grit paper, couldn't find dextron 3 so used 2 instead.

Started the bike, put it into 2nd while holding on for dear life and nothing! :banana2:

the bike now has about 3% clutch drag, it'll just about tick over with the clutch in.

I've quicky bled the clutch but i'll be giving it a full bleed with new fluid and try adjusting the screw mentioned.

Big thanks to everone for there help, still can't get it in neutral when its running though!? is this a common trait or just because the bike has a tiny tiny bit of clutch drag still?

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To get into neutral got to try tapping the gear lever rather than a full shift. Put it into 1st and then a tap with back of your heel. If it goes to far into 2nd drop it back into 1st then try again. Works for me.

Ta

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