forbzy Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hello, Im trying to do my fork seals on a 99 txt 250 i just got, Ive removed everything and am at the point where I think i should just pull hard on the tube and the seal should pop out with the tube, but it wont, it seems to be really stuck in. The forks I have are the ones with a 3" sleeve on the top of the lower fork tube with 4 holes around it, which im guessing have something to do with it?? any ideas???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Try looking on You Tube, quite a few gas gas videos showning various repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forbzy Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I just worked it out after posting this but thanks anyway. I checked the forum and youtube but couldnt find anything that showed the forks that are on the 99 model. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I just worked it out after posting this but thanks anyway. I checked the forum and youtube but couldnt find anything that showed the forks that are on the 99 model. Thanks again I'm assuming you found the spring circlip that retains the seal in the collar. Next time, use a little heat from a propane torch on the upper collar (I think you have the 3-piece lower leg GG forks) as that helps to release the seal. I use a home made tool to insert under the seal and twist/lever it out as the removable collar seals are a little tricky to get the seal out than the one-piece lower legs. Be sure to lube the o-ring inside the collar before putting it back on the leg. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forbzy Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hey, thanks for the helpful posts! I dont think im ever going to forget the spring circlip after I re-assembled the first fork and put it back in place then noticed that I'd left the clip off . but its all sorted now and thanks again for the posts. Although I have another problem now, i took the bike out for a 15min spin today and after a while the front wheel seemed really stiff. This resulted in me going across some concrete and the bike going one way and me the other.. It turns out that the brakes are sticking on and once they get hot I can barely move the wheel. After a quick look at the front disc I can see that there isn't all the bolts there should be holding the brake disc on. But there is little movement in the disc. I also noticed whilst removing the front wheel to do the forks that the disc is a very tight fit into the pads. Whats the solution to this? new pads? new disc? new bolts? Im new to this trials stuff and seem to have gotten off on the wrong foot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hey, thanks for the helpful posts! I dont think im ever going to forget the spring circlip after I re-assembled the first fork and put it back in place then noticed that I'd left the clip off . but its all sorted now and thanks again for the posts. Although I have another problem now, i took the bike out for a 15min spin today and after a while the front wheel seemed really stiff. This resulted in me going across some concrete and the bike going one way and me the other.. It turns out that the brakes are sticking on and once they get hot I can barely move the wheel. After a quick look at the front disc I can see that there isn't all the bolts there should be holding the brake disc on. But there is little movement in the disc. I also noticed whilst removing the front wheel to do the forks that the disc is a very tight fit into the pads. Whats the solution to this? new pads? new disc? new bolts? Im new to this trials stuff and seem to have gotten off on the wrong foot! Don't worry, you're doing fine, all of us have been through the same stuff. First, replace any missing bolts. The most common thing I see for new riders not familiar with hydraulic systems is that they adjust the screw on the master cylinder lever in too far, intuitively thinking (like a cable system) it will give them more travel or better pressure in the hoses. There needs to be some slack where the adjustment screw meets the plunger rod that goes through the rubber boot on the M/C. The piston has to come all the way back to the circlip under the boot or the system will be "closed" and heat from using the brakes will build up pressure and drag/lock the brakes. The piston has to come all the way back to uncover/open the hole that feeds fluid and releases pressure from the system. All three master cylinders need to be adjusted this way. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris morris Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 the 4 holes are there for a pin spanner to unscrew the 3" collar, once unscrewed slide up off the fork leg then then you can remove the seal i've got a diagram if you need one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheels Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Our 1997 JTX 200 has the same forks, these are not the same in any of the videos you can find on line. the four holes are the key. that top part unscrews so you just have a 3" piece in your hand which has the seal in it. you either need the special tool which looks like a "C" spanner or i used a oil filter type wrench which had a rubber belt to wrap round the end bit, i put the bottom end in my work mate and the end bit came off really easily. after that i put the bit in very hot (boiling) water and tapped the seal out. without the water it didn't budge at all but once it was hot, bingo out it came. without removing the piece and just pulling the fork sliders apart won't work as there is a collar there. hope this makes sense but i had the same conumdrum recently and this is the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Our 1997 JTX 200 has the same forks, these are not the same in any of the videos you can find on line. the four holes are the key. that top part unscrews so you just have a 3" piece in your hand which has the seal in it. you either need the special tool which looks like a "C" spanner or i used a oil filter type wrench which had a rubber belt to wrap round the end bit, i put the bottom end in my work mate and the end bit came off really easily. after that i put the bit in very hot (boiling) water and tapped the seal out. without the water it didn't budge at all but once it was hot, bingo out it came. without removing the piece and just pulling the fork sliders apart won't work as there is a collar there. hope this makes sense but i had the same conumdrum recently and this is the way. Heres a photo of the wrench types, from the top: adjustable strap wrench pin spanner made just for the 3-piece GG fork collar adjustable pin spanner Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Heres a photo of the wrench types, from the top:adjustable strap wrench pin spanner made just for the 3-piece GG fork collar adjustable pin spanner Jon You can get the rubber strap thing in B&Q, if your in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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