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2010 Evo 250 Set Up Tweaks?


duggan
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Forgive my short memory, but did Beta not change over to the Kiehin carbs on the Evo's?

Reguardless, on the jap carbs, the normal ideal effective range on the airscrews is between .5 and 1.5 turns out in order to obtain best idle and response.

Getting outside this range could be an indication that a change of primary jetting is needed. Add, as they can be fairly sensitive and vary upon the day and the temps, small changes of 1/4 turn or so on the screw may be needed for optimal operation. :thumbup:

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Maybe not it, but If you only tried going richer by 1/4 turn from your original setup, I would try going in (less air = richer) some more (at least 1/2 turn in from your original) just to see what happens. 1/4 turn can be hard to notice. 1/2 turn usually obvious to most folks if you dont have other issues. Do you notice any lean bog if you wack the throttle wide open quickly? I usually lower the idle and adjust the AS unitl i can detect a lean bog when quicklt opened full, then go richer by 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

I wouldnt take the weight off unless your sure (verify) the jetting is correct. Is there another 2010 you can compare it to? Dealer have one? Have you tried a different batch of gas? Sorry if this AS setting is wasting your time, but have had this work well for several folks.

Best regards

In the uk most bikes come with jetting that is near enough. Jetting is an issue in the states because of poor quality pump gas. Take it back to the dealer and get it checked over.

Edited by Nigel Dabster
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Forgive my short memory, but did Beta not change over to the Kiehin carbs on the Evo's?

Reguardless, on the jap carbs, the normal ideal effective range on the airscrews is between .5 and 1.5 turns out in order to obtain best idle and response.

Getting outside this range could be an indication that a change of primary jetting is needed. Add, as they can be fairly sensitive and vary upon the day and the temps, small changes of 1/4 turn or so on the screw may be needed for optimal operation. :thumbup:

My buddy's 08 rev 3 came with a Keihin. Doesn't even p*** gas.. :thumbup:

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The carb is set to the standard settings as recommend by beta, 4th needle notch and 1 1/4 turns on the air screw. It seems to be

slow to pick up from tick over when the throttle is opened fully, just seems to lack response?

Also when revved then the throttle closed it seems to take a

while for the rpm to drop back to idle? Anyone found simular or got any ideas?

Hanging idle usually is a sign for a lean condition on the pilot circuit. Are you sure that the setting you use is the "race" setting? In some countries Beta's come street legal with a very lean emission compliant "road" setting. This was LKK needle, 4th notch, 42 pilot, 105 main on the 09 bikes - very lean. Maybe your bike came with these settings for some reason? The correct needle would be a JJH which I'm running in 4th position (comes from the factory in 5th for break in), 48 pilot, 125 main on the 09 250 EVO. Just a guess.

Michael

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Set to sorting out the bike today

Hit it with a load of tweaks from junking my fuel and buying more from a different garage just incase I'd got some bad fuel, changed the plug from a br7es to a br6es, beta Uk recommend using a 5 for the colder Uk climate but couldn't find one so a 6 is halfway. Checked the float level and checked all the correct jets and needle were fitted which was all good, Stripped and cleaned the rest of the carb while it was apart again, re adjusted the air and idle screws and finally worked out which map is which on the map switch (number 2 is the full power map) ( 1 is the soft map). After all this hey presto it's now running crisp and responsive! :thumbup:

personally think the fuel change and plug made the most difference as the carb was set almost identical from start to finish.

Cheers to everyone for your comments and advice

Ed

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what position the switch need to be for power switch #2 ?

The rear position is selected. This is the high power map on my 09 290.

Oh, i did not notice Duggan answered this comment.

Edited by Liviob
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The 125, 250 and 290 run the Keihin PWK 28mm.

The 200 still runs the Mikuni VM26/208.

That is basically what I thought, which also opens up the possibilty of the direct usage of the OKO's in smaller bore of 24 and 26 for them.

As there does seem to be better controllability and progression than the rather quick 28.

I have been on this 24mm thing with the Sherco 2.9 and am liking it, as it seems much more progressive and linear in response in the low range, and I could really care less about how full throttle operation works, yet I really cannot tell much difference. Oh well just a thought!

Thoughts being that a clubman rider that finds the 290 a handful may well like the 24 and the same with a 250 rider, but may like the 26 as well, as this is closer to Beta basics with the VM26.

All in all, just things for some to consider, as some may want to!

Cheers, MC

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