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2004 rev3 clutch cover change

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Following the bike overheating at the end of the last comp, investigation led me to a very nice bodge job by the previous owner around a crack in the water pump housing filled from the inside!

This has now given way resulting in the overheat. I have elected not to repeat the bodge but to carryout a full inner clutch casing change!

Having released all of the bolts, the old casing appears to be catching on a rubber spacer on the lower front edge. The only way I can see of getting around this is that the bash plate needs to come off? Is this correct or am I missing something???

Also any other things I should be aware of / checking??

Rob

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i did mine a couple of years ago. i certainly took the bash plate off.. dont know if it HAS to but mine came off and went on with no real problems..

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I've just done it to renew bearings and yes the sump guard has to come off. Good luck with putting it back!

However I found it not too bad this time. Normally I would fix the front of a guard first then squeeze the rear up to allow bolt fitting ( a heck of a job last time on the Beta) but my subconscious must have been working on this while I was asleep because I had the thought to fix the back then bend the front up.

I laid the bike on its side such that the tank (suitably padded) bore on the end of a wall to prevent the bike moving then used a narrow spade (anchored against a piece of wood bearing on the back door step) to lever the guard in to position whilst my glamorous assistant fitted the bolts. Beat that for agricultural engineering!

But it did make the job easier. Oh, and for the extra tenner it's worthwhile renewing the pump bearings to avoid a repeat performance.

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as above ...bash plate needs to come off. try lifting bike on a car jack under the bash guard to get it back on...worked for me. get some tea and patience ready too, they can be a real pain!

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Yes the guard has to come off, and yes it's a giggle getting it back on. One point worth mentioning to all Rev3 owners though, check the water pump area of the casing regularly. The original casing is magnesium, which the coolant dissolves. The replacement ones are now aluminium to correct the problem.

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Many thanks to everyone who replied.....

Found another bodge.... one sump guard bolt with a nice round head. Luckily it was back corner of the opposite side. Was able to get the other 3 off and lever the sump guard clear enough to do the clutch case cover. Will add the bolt to the list of things to do!

All the repair is complete with the fan kicking back in and no leak's. Just the bash plate to bolt back up now...

On a separate note, the seat/rear mudguard assembly was only held in by one bolt at the front and there should be 3, one in the middle and one each side by the mesh grills. Are these standard off the shelf fittings (if so what size thread etc) or is there a seat assembly bolt kit ?

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Are there any issues with replacing the inner clutch cover (apart from the bash plate) and does anybody have any instructions - or a link to any? Just found this today on the first bike my son bought!

IMG_20201028_184801.jpg

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