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Montesa Cota 348 - Sprockets, chain, tyres, tubes, rimlocks


bpilgrim
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Hello,

I'm after new sprockets and chain for my 348, just wondering from your experience, what the best sprocket sizes are (front and back) for riding modern trial sections (and no road use)? Also, what would be a good sprocket make? I've been looking at Talon sprockets, but the front (on a taper) doesn't have a cut out for a woodruff key, do I need to find a special front sprocket?

Chain: I believe it's a 520, any particularly good makes?

Tyres: I've searched for other threads and everyone seems to hate the Pirelli's, but for a novice, would there actually be much difference between the MT43s and the X11s? I was inclined to the Pirelli's because it said they were harder, so they should last longer, do they? The Michelin's are only £25 more than the Pirelli's (for both front and back combined, tube type), so if the Michelin's last longer I'll go for them.

Tubes: I'm looking at the Michelin tubes, but do I need normal tubes (£8 each), 'heavy duty' (£12 each) or 'ultra heavy duty tubes' (£25 each)?

Rimlocks: I'm a little confused, the sizes I've found are WM1(1.6"), WM2(1.85"), WM3(2.15") and WM4(2.5"). I was after 2.75" and 4.00" since I have 2.75x21 and 4.00x18 rims, so what do these sizes relate to? Also I was looking at the fancy aluminium Talon rimlocks, apparently they are the best on the market, any experience with these?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

Edited by BPilgrim
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You don't need a Woodruff key as it does not matter in what position the sprocket is fitted - it is the taper that secures something (be it sprocket or flywheel) on to a tapered shaft, not the key.

Edited by 2/4
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Hello,

I'm after new sprockets and chain for my 348, just wondering from your experience, what the best sprocket sizes are (front and back) for riding modern trial sections (and no road use)? Also, what would be a good sprocket make? I've been looking at Talon sprockets, but the front (on a taper) doesn't have a cut out for a woodruff key, do I need to find a special front sprocket?

Chain: I believe it's a 520, any particularly good makes?

Tyres: I've searched for other threads and everyone seems to hate the Pirelli's, but for a novice, would there actually be much difference between the MT43s and the X11s? I was inclined to the Pirelli's because it said they were harder, so they should last longer, do they? The Michelin's are only £25 more than the Pirelli's (for both front and back combined, tube type), so if the Michelin's last longer I'll go for them.

Tubes: I'm looking at the Michelin tubes, but do I need normal tubes (£8 each), 'heavy duty' (£12 each) or 'ultra heavy duty tubes' (£25 each)?

Rimlocks: I'm a little confused, the sizes I've found are WM1(1.6"), WM2(1.85"), WM3(2.15") and WM4(2.5"). I was after 2.75" and 4.00" since I have 2.75x21 and 4.00x18 rims, so what do these sizes relate to? Also I was looking at the fancy aluminium Talon rimlocks, apparently they are the best on the market, any experience with these?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

Rim locks are the size of the rim, not sure what you need but they are normally WM1 front, WM2 Rear

Go for the michelin or IRC (Far Better tyres than MT43s) Also Vee rubber are good budget tyres :thumbup:

Edited by Monty_Jon
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Rimlocks: I'm a little confused, the sizes I've found are WM1(1.6"), WM2(1.85"), WM3(2.15") and WM4(2.5"). I was after 2.75" and 4.00" since I have 2.75x21 and 4.00x18 rims, so what do these sizes relate to? Also I was looking at the fancy aluminium Talon rimlocks, apparently they are the best on the market, any experience with these?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

Akront rims usaually have the WM size stamped on the rim.

Got Talon rimlocks, no better at securing the tyre (in my experience) but should last longer than standard ones.

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Ideal gearing is a difficult subject because it is a personal taste thing. When I started riding my 348, I thought the standard gearing on it was too high, and fitted a rear sprocket with 39 teeth (33 is standard) but the motor was not running very well (AMAL problems).

Once I got the motor running well, I found that the bike felt too slow in first gear in sections and second was too fast. I then put a standard rear sprocket on and it is wonderful to ride.

The front sprocket was standard size all along.

If you buy a Pirelli and use it till it wears out, you will be regretting your decision for a long time. They take an amazingly long time to wear out but are quite stiff in the sidewalls and are scary on wet rocks. Michelin or IRC tube-type rears are really the only decent rear tyres for that rim. For performance the IRC is better but is more sensitive to tyre pressure than the Michelin. Michelin used to sell a very good tube-type rear but the current Michelin tube-type is not as good.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for all the comments.

I have now finished the rims, with new rim tapes, talon rimlocks (drilled the rear rim and fitted two), heavy duty michelin tubes in them (which are for enduro/mx) but are so thick I'd be very surprised if I ever got a puncture and the tyre still deforms well with these thick tubes in. Tyres, well I'm a student, so I went for Pirelli's and I am so far very impressed with the grip (and the self cleaning). Then again, my first two trials were on the original 30+ year old Pirelli MT13 tyres. The only problem I have had is with the rear tyre unseating at low pressure (4psi), the bead is popping onto the inside of the rim, opposed to sitting on the edge of the rim.

The rim lock sizes were indeed WM1 front and WM2 rear, as you correctly stated.

Sprockets: Haven't yet ordered these, but will go for the standard gearing, 10T and 33T, using talon sprockets, and the Renthal R1 520 chain, as have been recommended. I had some fun getting the front sprocket off a spare engine the other day, I managed to get it off with a puller, but it came off with quite a bang!

Regarding the woodruff key on the front sprocket, since woodruff keys (and other types) are only for locating things on shafts, and are not load bearing (I think), why did Montesa give the front sprocket a key? It doesn't matter what orientation it goes on...

Thanks,

Ben

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Sprocket sizes are certainly a personal choice, so I'll add my two cents. I have three 348's, one with a 10/38 combination and two with a 10/33 combination. I almost always ride the the 348 equipped with the 38 tooth rear sprocket. I just find it fits my riding style better.

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Sprocket sizes are certainly a personal choice, so I'll add my two cents. I have three 348's, one with a 10/38 combination and two with a 10/33 combination. I almost always ride the the 348 equipped with the 38 tooth rear sprocket. I just find it fits my riding style better.

Hi, thanks, I think I'll probably try several rear sprockets, as at the moment (not entirely sure what sizes are on) first is a bit slow and I run out of beans going up a hill. I seem to use second most of the time but sometimes, it runs away, I often find myself changing between first and second during a section, which I don't think you're supposed to do. I have also dropped points before by changing gear, and getting it stuck in neutral... not good when you can't balance!

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Regarding the woodruff key on the front sprocket, since woodruff keys (and other types) are only for locating things on shafts, and are not load bearing (I think), why did Montesa give the front sprocket a key? It doesn't matter what orientation it goes on...

Thanks,

Ben

Maybe Montesa designers were concerned that the taper might be damaged if the sprocket rotated relative to the shaft as the retaining nut was being tightened.

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The only problem I have had is with the rear tyre unseating at low pressure (4psi), the bead is popping onto the inside of the rim, opposed to sitting on the edge of the rim.

Thanks,

Ben

Ben you have just discovered another reason not to fit a Pirelli MT43 on a 348. This is a common problem with tubeless tyres.

I have seen a work-around for this problem - four tyre clamps equispaced around the rim. Another person kept the pressure above 8psi to keep the tyre on the rim.

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