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Suspension Linkage Bearings

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Hi guys been looking on this forum for a while now and just registered up tonight dont know why i didnt do it sooner its a great site,people and plenty of useful information and very welcoming

I Just want to ask what the difference is between these bearings as I'm wanting to replace the dogbone bearings and found some on eBay for a couple quid each

Hk16162rs and Hk14162rs are the ones fitted and

the ones on eBay are

Hk1616 and Hk1416 but haven't got the 2rs

Does the 2rs matter?

Thanks in advance Les

  • Author

The RS means rubber sealed.

Ahhh right :) so really there no good as they need to be sealed for use on a trials bike due to the conditions there ridden in

Thanks for the answer stiller

Les

The bearings are cheap, It's the bushings that are expensive and normally wear with the bearings so just replacing the bearings will only take up some of the play.

There is no cheap way around this, I need to do mine but have to convince myself that I have to spend money on something you can't see and isn't shiny!!!.

The bearings are cheap, It's the bushings that are expensive and normally wear with the bearings so just replacing the bearings will only take up some of the play.

There is no cheap way around this, I need to do mine but have to convince myself that I have to spend money on something you can't see and isn't shiny!!!.

Makes your rear end feel good!:)

Edited by copemech

Personally I'd buy a all balls/moose racing kit for the linkages/swingarm mount, bearings are the same but their sleeves are much better quality & I wouldn't be sure the complete kit is not cheaper than the genuine parts.

Kit number is 27-1165 & is easily found on ebay especially from the states, I lent my kit to a clubmate for his new bike that was nowhere near what it was advertised as & he was able to replace it in about a week from the states for a lot less than he expected

Makes your rear end feel good! :)

My rear end is tight as a ducks, The poor Sherco's like a worn out rent boy!!!

It's got bad very quickly, 3 Trials ago it had a little play now it's hanging, Will be changing in the next week or so.

I can't believe the price of these things, I will be cleaning and lubing my rear end after every trial from now on.

My rear end is tight as a ducks, The poor Sherco's like a worn out rent boy!!!

It's got bad very quickly, 3 Trials ago it had a little play now it's hanging, Will be changing in the next week or so.

I can't believe the price of these things, I will be cleaning and lubing my rear end after every trial from now on.

It does pay to keep your rear end clean, as otherwise it can become quite painfull! :blush:

All joking aside, at the cost of the HK bearings and such, one might consider changing over to the "11 dogbone links with the plain bearings, or as some, just go with the bronze bushes.

Sandiford off road are doing sets on Ebay for £62.50 plus £4 postage ive just ordered some as they seemed to be the cheapest.

Can any one explain how to set up the shocker with the top of spring and the little screw on the bottom???

Can any one explain how to set up the shocker with the top of spring and the little screw on the bottom???

No, as we do not even know what year bike or what you are trying to accomplish.dot dot dot!

  • Author

Just ordered some allballs ones from motomerlin for under

Doh!! Sorry it 290 sherco 2008 2t

I want to set up the shocker for me so needed to know what does what on the shocker.

I know you can twis the top bit round one way or the other but the little screw at the bottom of the shocker, which way does what for adjustment?

I want to set up the shocker for me so needed to know what does what on the shocker.

I know you can twis the top bit round one way or the other but the little screw at the bottom of the shocker, which way does what for adjustment?

There are only two adjustments available on the stock shock, spring preload and damping rate. The preload would be set using the threaded lock rings on the end of spring Static sag(weight of bike only on its wheels) would normally be 20-30 mm range depending upon rider weight and prefs.

Little screw on bottom would be return damping speed and should have 15-20 detent clicks and travel 2-3 turns round. Set somewhere in mid range to start, and if you want it quicker for hopping and such back off a few clicke untill you get it where you desire.

If your shock has a knob on top, it is not the stock Olle and has been changed for something else like TRP so adjustment is done on the knob and the screw is for the nitrogen charge port as I recall so don't mess with it!

Edited by copemech

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