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Spark Plug Torque?


toman21
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A lot of spark plugs have a crushable gasket ring which allows a lot of sloppyness in tightening. The basic procedure is to finger-tighten, then about 3/4 of a turn more to crush the gasket. You can feel it happening, as there will be a constant force pushing back, until the crush zone is all crushed, then it will be much harder to turn. Don't go far into the "hard to turn" zone-- most cylinder heads are aluminum and you can strip out the threads if you really horse down on it.

Also this only applies to the FIRST TIME you put in a fresh plug! On subsequent times there will be less crush-zone left, or even none, so you have to be more careful, you may notice only a quarter-turn or less of easy-going before it becomes hard to turn.

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I almost always use a torque wrench on my spark plugs.

I also put anti seize pasta on the threads to protect the threads but also because it contains oil, and to achieve the correct torque value the threads must always be oiled.

By the way, the torque value for the 10mm spark plug of my 4RT is 16 Nm or 12 Lbf-Ft

For 14mm spark plugs it's about 22 Nm or 16 Lbf-Ft

But always consult your bike's manual for the correct value.

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I almost always use a torque wrench on my spark plugs.

I also put anti seize pasta on the threads to protect the threads but also because it contains oil, and to achieve the correct torque value the threads must always be oiled.

By the way, the torque value for the 10mm spark plug of my 4RT is 16 Nm or 12 Lbf-Ft

For 14mm spark plugs it's about 22 Nm or 16 Lbf-Ft

But always consult your bike's manual for the correct value.

Yea, well you may get by with that on a Mont, but one word of caution as anti-sieze can migrate and short a plug! So carefull with the useage.!

On a 2T the threads are lubed by normal operation in most cases, and the best thing I can take on the trial is an adjustable spanner when/ if I need it, so better get a grip on things!

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