I got out on my bike today and after a couple of hours of pottering about the bike started spluttering like it was running out of fuel I didn't realise I had it on reserve already I got half way back to the car park and the engine cut out topped up the tank and when I re started it wouldn't idle so I adjusted idle and started to ride off when the bike spluttered and died.

Now the bike won't start and there is no spark new plug or old riders where I was said it might be the stator as is a common problem does anybody know how to check them so can rule this out before I drain the coolant again! I have multi meter and the fly wheels off.

Bikes a 2007 rev3 250

Kill switch first, disconnect and check for spark again.

as above check the kill switch, the beta one as a habit of sticking in

I recently replaced the beta one with a apico kill switch did away with the lighting loom re located the coil earth and kill switch earth on the frame above radiator.

I will check it all out tomorrow make sure it's all connected and check kill switch I was wondering what to do if that was all well.

Make sure you did not lose the new ground. Too many of the new switches are made in china.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/25835-info-on-how-to-test-the-stator-in-a-rev-3-2003-to-2007/

I measured between the black and red I got .283 kohms rather than 321 kohms yellow to earth measures 0.6 ohms.

I'm not sure why I've got a reading of .283 kohms doesn't seem right?

I would say you are close at 281. Reading farther in the post a guy had 291 and had spark. The K might have been a error.

Most auto ranging meters wouldn't say .283 thousand ohms

It should say 283 ohms

You sure the meter had that on it?, or is a not auto ranging

Most auto ranging meters wouldn't say .283 thousand ohms

It should say 283 ohms

You sure the meter had that on it?, or is a not auto ranging

Yes meters auto ranging and definitely reads .283 kohms which is 283 ohms like you say I've triple checked it as I couldn't work it out myself I don't know why it's ranging in kohms when it could read it in straight ohms so either the meters up the duff, or it measures k ohms with a point in front of it? Or there's a short?

I would say you are close at 281. Reading farther in the post a guy had 291 and had spark. The K might have been a error.

Ok I just read that he dosent go on to say if the stator was working ok.

Took rad off and disconnected kill switch and still no spark ground/earth and all the other connections look ok any one got any ideas?

Have you pulled spark plug cap off and checked cap. Also clip plug wire back to some fresh wire. You need to pull flywheel off to make sure the key did not shear. Also being the bike was apart check the stator plate.

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by lineaway

Have you pulled spark plug cap off and checked cap. Also clip plug wire back to some fresh wire. You need to pull flywheel off to make sure the key did not shear. Also being the bike was apart check the stator plate.

Spark plug caps ok I chopped a bit of wire off and re made joint the key hasn't sheared and the plate looks in tact and the stator is clean as it was when I first took fly wheel off with so signs of gunge or corrosion it looks like brand new.

I noticed the coil has 5 kohm marked on it and it measures 9.6 kohms between the cap and spade connection on coil I don't know if it hasn't any relevance.

I was getting up to 19 v AC from the red and black connections on the connecter that connects to the CDI if that has any bearing I'm stumped.

We must be missing something simple, please don't take offence but you are checking for a spark with the plug earthed against a well earthed part of the bike? Also can you spin the engine with a drill, plug out and earthed, turn your garage lights off and look for sparks shorting onto the frame from any wiring.

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by jfc

We must be missing something simple, please don't take offence but you are checking for a spark with the plug earthed against a well earthed part of the bike? Also can you spin the engine with a drill, plug out and earthed, turn your garage lights off and look for sparks shorting onto the frame from any wiring.

I have checked for a spark with the plug insulator up against cylinder head bolt and cylinder and had the lights off but no spark.

How do I go about getting the drill on the engine?

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by southwester