Well it started first kick with the wires in there new position when in the past it's all ways been 2nd attempt so let's hope it stays that way and that's the end of it.

I assume it was earthed when I had the kill switch and Cdi earth clamped on the regulator fixing stud at first then lost its path that's the only reason I can think of why it worked for a short period of time.

Like I mentioned in a previous post I linked out the kill switch and Cdi earth terminals with a separate wire which isn't shown in the wiring diagram yet it sparked without it which I think its a good move as where the Cdi earth tag was located when I got the bike and is again now doesn't seem very good spot to me unless I'm misunderstanding its purpose.

I haven't filed any anodising off or used any heat sink paste or star washers which I will if I got to go in there again.

Anyway I hope that's it and there isn't a intermittent fault lurking and it's just coincidence it's sparking again after moving the Cdi earth.

I think so I don't think it was the new kill switch as much as the brown earth wire coming from the Cdi yet not shown on wiring schematic not being connected to coil where an earth is shown on the wiring schematic whether there using the bracket the coil bolts on to as a earth and the brown gets ground anywhere I'm not sure.

I ran it in the garden yesterday afternoon for a while and all seemed well but it's going to have to wait until Saturday for a real test.

That ll teach me for skimming the post and not paying attention

As a guy who chases pico-amps for a living I maintain you can never have too many grounds. The earth on the coil is probably best as you are not relying on the frame but a direct connection through a wire back to the summing node in the stator. Personally I prefer to ground things in several places so when one fails I don't have to push out of the woods or even know for that matter. I am a strong believer in different grounds for ignition and lighting systems.

Dan..

I had a bike many years ago that had an intermittent head light and instrument lights. The earth was mounted to the fork yolk so the circuit was relying on contact through the steering bearing, I only found what the problem was when it would only work if you turned the bars left or right but not straight ahead.

TLTEL

I like the Japanese way in that almost everything is grounded through the harness, they have far fewer electrical problems that way

Strange though, a bolt on connector with all that surface area should have so much opportunity to ground yet it's prone to failure

Yeah Beta did that on my 08. Really poor grounding scheme as it caused the kill switch and lighting circuits to cross feed when the ground went intermittant.