You just drive the flywheel nut with a socket connected to a cordless drill, make sure of direction!

When you say plug insulator in your post above do you mean the metal spanner flats of the plug? Or do you mean the ceramic insulated part of the plug?

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by jfc

cheers I will try the drill out I'll have to check I got the kit to get from that socket size to my chuck size, I had the very tip of the plug touching the cyl head bolts.

Just a side note is the flywheel pickup close enough to the flywheel 0.5/1.0 m. And is the plug brand new out of the box never been used plug!

Just a side note is the flywheel pickup close enough to the flywheel 0.5/1.0 m. And is the plug brand new out of the box never been used plug!

Yes plugs brand new, flywheel pickup close enough to the flywheel, I don't know about that how do I go about checking?

Can't remember on the revs but the evo has a pickup mounted at 10 o'clock outside of the flywheel, it is held in place with Alan headed machine screws,

There's nothing on the outside of the fly wheel there's some threads where the fly wheel weight could bolt in but the bikes never had 1.

Sorry I have just looked at the PDF for the rev and it does not have one external to the flywheel.

Since you had the meter out, did you verify the grounds with the meter? And did you try for spark with the kill switch completely removed?

I think I've found what it is when I took out the original kill-light switch and lighting wires I terminated the brown wire from the Cdi on the 12 volt adjuster stud along with the earth from the new kill switch, the brown wire was originally terminated on one of the fixings holding the coil on.

I thought I read on here that was the best place to terminate the earths so it ran like that for 5 or so hours on two separate occasions until it stopped sparking.

I didn't think that could be the problem because it had been running until I looked on the wiring schematic and it shows a earth either side of the coil and it was like that originally it doesn't show a earth-brown wire coming from the Cdi

I put the bolt through the earth tag and the coil fixing hole held the plug up to the cylinder again and a nice blue spark:)

I've ran a wire linking the earth from the kill switch to the coil earth to make sure there's good contact and it's back together and sparking.

I'm not sure what happened there with it running for a while and then not but that's definitely how the wires were.

Glad you found it!

Hmmm, repairing a ground should not fix a kill switch that is stuck in the kill position

If the the ground was open then the kill being stuck in kill position would result in the bike being unkillable, not a loss of spark

That make sense?

Got your spark back! Good result.

Be more careful with it the next time !

Anything grounded to the frame has to have the anodizing ground off to make good contact. I also use conductive thermal grease to keep the aluminum from reoxidizing.

Well it started first kick with the wires in there new position when in the past it's all ways been 2nd attempt so let's hope it stays that way and that's the end of it.

I assume it was earthed when I had the kill switch and Cdi earth clamped on the regulator fixing stud at first then lost its path that's the only reason I can think of why it worked for a short period of time.

Like I mentioned in a previous post I linked out the kill switch and Cdi earth terminals with a separate wire which isn't shown in the wiring diagram yet it sparked without it which I think its a good move as where the Cdi earth tag was located when I got the bike and is again now doesn't seem very good spot to me unless I'm misunderstanding its purpose.

I haven't filed any anodising off or used any heat sink paste or star washers which I will if I got to go in there again.

Anyway I hope that's it and there isn't a intermittent fault lurking and it's just coincidence it's sparking again after moving the Cdi earth.

Hmmm, repairing a ground should not fix a kill switch that is stuck in the kill position

If the the ground was open then the kill being stuck in kill position would result in the bike being unkillable, not a loss of spark

That make sense?

I think so I don't think it was the new kill switch as much as the brown earth wire coming from the Cdi yet not shown on wiring schematic not being connected to coil where an earth is shown on the wiring schematic whether there using the bracket the coil bolts on to as a earth and the brown gets ground anywhere I'm not sure.

I ran it in the garden yesterday afternoon for a while and all seemed well but it's going to have to wait until Saturday for a real test.