bob Posted October 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 I have a flywheel puller and a woodruff key off a techno so that if they are the same then I can put that one in, I am shocked at how small it is! Do I need to make or can I buy a tool to stop the engine from turning over whilst I try to undo the nut, plus when I put it back on I have marked it, but what torque should it be at, I apolagise for my 'technical numbness' cheers bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beebee Posted October 6, 2005 Report Share Posted October 6, 2005 Idealy an air gun to remove the nut, or put the bike in gear get a friend to press the back brake, if it still moves put it against the wall, nut should loosen. As a general guide I would think that around 65NM or 45Ft/lbs is enough , when refiting flywheel always torque nut to spec, loosen then re-torque to ensure flywheel is properly seated {use a drop of threadlock blue on the thread second time}. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 I have chacked the woodruff key and it is syill there and in tact. I am going to try new fuel and spark plug etc tomorrrow to see if it is any better. I think that the stator looked oh, with no corrosion, except for one point. There are about six big coils, and two black boxes between two coils, one at the front and one at the back(of the bike) the one at the front seems to have quite a lot of corrosion on the tabs on the top of it, what is in there, could this be a problem? It looks like I am going to have to tae it to a dealer Thanks, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beebee Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I work on lots of {Jap} road bikes and corrosion on the pick up coil usually does not cause any problems, clean it up with a brilo pad etc. You can measure the resistance of the pick up coil with a multi meter and check that against factory settings {or another bike}. A white spark plug electrode is a worry {very lean}, over time the fuel and oil mix will have "gone off" get rid of the fuel in the bike and put in a fresh mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 right, I have tried new fuel, new spark plug, checked the HT lead, checked the coil earth, checked the woodruff key, and it is still knocking at high revs. I am going to have a mess about with the mixture some time, should I try moving the needle up one notch, or should I try adjusting the mixture screw first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I've already tried that unforturnately, and it had a brand new in line filter fitted this morning, I don't think that there is any filter on the carb. Rubbers are fine, I think that it might be worth adjusting the mixture a little, but if that fails then I might aswell surrender and take it into a dealer. It could probably do with someone who knows what they are doing looking over it anyway. I have had a look on the beta website and my nearest dealer is about an hours drive away, does anyone know aof any dealers in my area who will service and repair bikes? thanks for your help, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manz Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 does it rev at all? i mean like upto 5-6k and then start pinking? or is it misfiring / pinking just with a little bit of throttle? First one is lean condition, air leak. I'd check the crank-case seal on the magneto side. Second one is a bad cdi unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 it does rev up quite high before any problems develop. I can ride it around at low revs fine, it is just when you open the throttle to about half revs that it starts doing it. How can I check the seal, do I need remove the magneto? thanks, that sounds like abit of good-ish news. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I'm pretty sure now that the stator is the problem (had a chat with a bloke from a stator specialist who thought that this problem would be caused by even a small amount of corrosion on the core of certain coils which were corroded. i am going to Lamkins for help I think, but I had a look on their website and it says that the 2003 stator is one with 4 coils, why does mine have 6?????? has somebody changed it to an older type one, or did the first ones have these stators??? thanks bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewart3871 Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 I could say i told you so....................but i wont. good luck mate, let us know if it cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 (edited) well I didn't disagree with any of your opinions, each one made some sort of sense. I just thought I would look like abit of a muppet if I changed the stator and it turned out that it was a bloked fuel line or something. Only problem was it wasn't a blocked fuel line and it has taken me about three weeks to get round to trying everything, and then I tried to find out if I could have my stator reconditioned which took ages and I found that the only place that could replace all of the required parts was in Spain. Anyway.... I have ordered a new stator and CDI unit and I am going to try the CDI unit first since I figured that this would be easiest and least likely to get marked or anything, and if that isn't the problem then wap on the new stator. Lampkins were really helpful, and I was surprised that they weren't bothered to send me all of this stuff and would take it back if it wasn't needed. oh and the 200 has a different stator to the other bikes for some reason. Thanks folks! Edited October 24, 2005 by bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 sounds like you have many things to check. If you can run the bike in between changes, I would suggest only one thing at t a time. Otherwise you won't know for sure what fixed it, or if it is fixed or just hiding for a moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrev3 Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 There's a firm called West Country Windings who advertise in T+MX News who test and overhaul stators. That's where mine was done, but my bike wouldn't run at all. Their phone number is 01752 560906. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 I have tried West country windings, but because it is a six coil stator they couldn't replace the core part as they weren't able to get these, and I found the only place that could was in Spain (Bradford Electrics I think). I have been riding the bike between changes, and I will do when I start changing electrical components. From what I gather there are two problems which stators suffer from; 1 corrosion which is what is wrong with mine and the bloke at WCW said that this is quite common. In this case you cannot tell that the stator is damaged by testing it with a multimeter, you must put a new one on the bike and see if it still does it. 2 The typical Beta problem when the coils become unwound abit due to vibration and your bike will not run atall. If you have a four coil stator then WCW can do them 'until the cows come home' as the bloke said. Cheers Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 All is fixed now and running better than ever. The Stator was the problem. No any tips on how to stop this happening again, do you silicone your covers on or any other tips such as removing the cover regularly? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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