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beebee

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  1. Ahh, that is a spacer for the wheel spindle. If you put the wheel in the bike and sat the caliper on the disc you will notice there is a gap on one side of the wheel spacers this is where the washer goes. {I think it is the R/H side if you were sat on the bike?} It is there so when you tighten the wheel spindle it keeps the forks at the correct distance apart.
  2. beebee replied to betarick's topic in Beta
    I'm not familiar with the Techno, but from the symptoms it sounds like the clutch thrust bearing is worn {If it has one?} If not it could be: Clutch shaft bearing {you will feel play in the clutch shaft} Clutch basket worn {look for teeth marks where the clutch plate tabs locate in the basket, also check for play in clutch assy.} As long as you have no bad vibration I woulnt worry, it is a common sound on older japanese road bikes {in these it is usually a worn thrust washer}
  3. beebee replied to betarick's topic in Beta
    I have got a 2000 model 250 which got cracks on both sides of the frame, my friend has the same model bike with exacly the same weld problems, easily tig welded just steam clean the tank first!!!! I always put it down to the bike doing the odd cartwheel, but who knows? p.s. I also had a problem with the original swingarm that broke along the weld, fitted the 02 type, much better.
  4. The washers are wheel bearing protectors.
  5. beebee replied to james111089's topic in Beta
    As far as I know the complete exhaust lenth has the following effects, the longer the overall leanth the higher peak power, shorter overall lenth the more botton/mid power. Not sure how much you need to cut down but I once cut about 1" off the end of a carbon can that had split and didnt feel any difference.
  6. beebee replied to bob's topic in Beta
    I work on lots of {Jap} road bikes and corrosion on the pick up coil usually does not cause any problems, clean it up with a brilo pad etc. You can measure the resistance of the pick up coil with a multi meter and check that against factory settings {or another bike}. A white spark plug electrode is a worry {very lean}, over time the fuel and oil mix will have "gone off" get rid of the fuel in the bike and put in a fresh mix.
  7. beebee replied to macdaddy's topic in Beta
    Not quite the same thing, but my mid section rubs on the bolt in the top of the clutch cover if the seat plate comes loose. Last year I had to get the tank/frame Tig welded under the petrol filler cap plastic, it had cracked down the two welds and was leaking fuel. BB
  8. beebee replied to beebee's topic in Beta
    Many thanks, BB
  9. beebee replied to doogle's topic in UK Trials Talk
    "Heidenau" tyres are made in Germany, they are a Michelin copy. Only available in TT at the moment but they are a soft compound and only
  10. beebee replied to bob's topic in Beta
    Idealy an air gun to remove the nut, or put the bike in gear get a friend to press the back brake, if it still moves put it against the wall, nut should loosen. As a general guide I would think that around 65NM or 45Ft/lbs is enough , when refiting flywheel always torque nut to spec, loosen then re-torque to ensure flywheel is properly seated {use a drop of threadlock blue on the thread second time}. BB
  11. beebee posted a topic in Beta
    Hi. Rev3 250 2000 I was checking the carb settings on my bike and the air screw is set at 3 turns out, can anyone confirm this is standard? Thanks,

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