I got busy and forgot.

Here are a couple, I'll make up a little wiring diagram also- but very simple.

I have not taken a pic of the diagnostics connector. I'm still trying to get more- I did find the pins, just not the propery connector.

Momentary switch

And the LiPo battery under the seat, just wrapped in some packing foam at the moment. I'll get a little fireproof pbag like suggested, but unless there is a wiring failure (certainly a possibility) it epseems unlikely any issues would happen.

Please excuse the mud

Lotus, I have tried your method, attaching momentarily 12 V power to the power pins of the diagnostic cable. On my 2014 explorer. This will run the fuel pump (you can hear that) before it stop due working fuel presssure is reached. Then when this happens, the bike will start even on the first kick. I was wondering why Ossa did not do this on all the bikes, instead of playing around with AAA capacitor solution.

Anyway, I am using this method of starting now. Lotus, I was wondering mow, shall I detach /disconect the AAA capacitor box now .? Or shall I leave them there .?

I left the box in place. I'm not sure it is really required now- but it wasn't getting in the way or anything so I left it.

  I charged the lithium battery the other day, it was still fine and it had been months since I charged it last.

    I installed my 'Super Easy Start' on my 'new' 2014 Factory 300 R.

the little battery is strapped along side the Capacitor behind the headlamp- 

+ from the battery goes to the button on the handlebar- other end of the switch goes back down, then to the diagnostics port.

- from the battery goes right to the diagnostics port.

No charging or anything, only works while holding the momentary button down.

This bike started for me pretty easily, but I like the potential trailside troubleshooting capabilities, MUCH easier starting if I were to run out of fuel and easier starting if I don't give it a good kick.

 

I'll try to take pics tomorrow- I STILL never made a diagram but I'll try to get on that.

Mark

I made a very basic block diagram for the 'Super Easy Start'.

 I'll take some pics on the Factory 300 and where I put the battery etc. If I could find a decent source for the connectors, I could make these up ready to plug in.

Ask any questions- I'll get the battery I'm using also. I only rarely charge it, since it only has a draw when the button is held down, it lasts a very long time. 

OSSA super-easy start.pdf

I did roughly the same on my 2012. Built a 12v battery using cells from an old laptop battery. Killswitch button to activate it. Chargecontroller pluggy for recharging.

Hi Guys,

Happy New Year!  Fellow rider in Hawaii.  I just picked up a 2013 Ossa Explorer and yes it is very hard to start!  It seems this one has been retrofitted with the easy start kit w the AAA battery and the capacitor.  Not sure if it is working or not. The battery measures 0V even after running the bike for a while. Okay been studying this thread about the LIPO setup. I just ordered a 3S 20C 1800mah as well as an intermittent switch.  Can you guys help me locate the Diagnostic port on my bike?  And connect to the red (+) and black (-) connectors right. Thanks in advance! Also do you know of any sources are available for replacement plastics? Thanks!

12 hours ago, Viper808 said:

 Can you guys help me locate the Diagnostic port on my bike?  And connect to the red (+) and black (-) connectors right.

I'm not sure about the Explorer, but on the trials bikes the connector is near the cylinder head.  The connector should have a "blanking plug" installed to keep dirt out.

You are correct about the wire colors and polarities.

If you have not seen it already, there's some relevant information here: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69622-efi-ossa-notebook-formerly-tr280i-wiring-diagram-annotated-in-english/

 

Just BTW, the fuel pump does not run initially when using the Easy-Start system.

Noticed Mark used 3 lithium-ion cells.  These have a nominal cell voltage of 3.6 to 3.7 (a 3-cell series pack gives 10.8 to 11.1 V).

I used a different battery chemistry (lithium-iron-phosphate) which has a nominal cell voltage of 3 to 3.4 (a 4-cell series pack gives 12 to 13.6 V).

The advantage of LiFePO4 is that it may be charged directly from the OSSA's electrical system.

 

Edited January 1, 20197 yr by konrad

Thank you konrad! I will order some lifepo4 cells. I like the recharging capabilities. Any thoughts on mah? 4 x 400mah should be plenty?

I used IRF18650 cells rated at 1100 mAh.  It's certainly possible you could get by with less, I did not do an analysis. 

One other thing... Mark has had very good luck with 1-kick starting, whereas my bikes require 2 to 2.5 kicks.  I'm wondering if there is any correlation between kick-starting and fuel pump voltage/pressure?

The ECU assumes a particular fuel pressure when it decides how much fuel to inject. The fuel pressure does not stabilize until the engine has run for, I'm guessing, a second (it's some short non-zero time, anyway). 

A higher battery voltage would cause more fuel to be injected.  I don't know if there is anything to this, but I'm throwing it out as a possibility.  Seemingly small changes have had a big impact my OSSAs.

37 minutes ago, konrad said:

I used IRF18650 cells rated at 1100 mAh.  It's certainly possible you could get by with less, I did not do an analysis. 

One other thing... Mark has had very good luck with 1-kick starting, whereas my bikes require 2 to 2.5 kicks.  I'm wondering if there is any correlation between kick-starting and fuel pump voltage/pressure?

The ECU assumes a particular fuel pressure when it decides how much fuel to inject. The fuel pressure does not stabilize until the engine has run for, I'm guessing, a second (it's some short non-zero time, anyway). 

A higher battery voltage would cause more fuel to be injected.  I don't know if there is anything to this, but I'm throwing it out as a possibility.  Seemingly small changes have had a big impact my OSSAs.

That is interesting about the actual voltage. I’ll try the 11.1V LiPo first since the battery is already on the way. I’ll also order some 14450 LiFePO4 (Same as AA) and a battery holder to compare ease of starting between the 2. Will report back findings. Thanks for you feedback.

Happy New Year!

So I cleaned up the wiring on my bike and removed the existing easy start with the AA battery. As a a result I was able to remove a mile of stray wiring (don't need headlight nor horn) and a dozen connectors.  I also removed the small black box marked "CDI Ignition" which has 2 wires going to it.  Is this part of the easy start retrofit?  The bike runs perfectly without it.  Also would anyone advise from not re-installing the small storage box under the seat?  Yes, I am an OCD minimalist!  Saves 4 ounces! Thanks!

 

That's the filter capacitor.  Because you removed the Easy-start, I would not remove the filter capacitor.  It's possible the life of the ECU and fan could be shortened without it.

Holy crap. I hope I can remember how it was wired! Here is all what I removed! 

On 1/1/2019 at 12:45 PM, Viper808 said:

I’ll try the 11.1V LiPo first since the battery is already on the way. I’ll also order some 14450 LiFePO4 (Same as AA) and a battery holder to compare ease of starting between the 2. Will report back findings.

When you do this, may I suggest adopting a standardize testing methodology.

I would suggest testing a fully-warmed bike, and letting it sit 5 - 6 minutes between tests.