volcano island trial

Lotus 54, I ve been reading your forum on Your Ossas, and I also read your document that you wrote on your expereince on Ossa TRi series. Your writing inspire me to learn more about Ossa FI bikes. I own a 2014 Ossa Explorer 250, and have been inconsistent in solving the startting problems..and As you know the 2014 model have the original easy start system by ossa which uses 1.5 volt battery to energize the capacitor.. Also I have installed the 12 V lithium ion battery to the diagnostic connector as per your earlier post... I have several questions.. 1. The 12 V diagnostic connector..you can hear the Fuel pump run when you press the momentary switch until the pump stop (fuel press reached ?)..then we release the switch when we kick start it.. Or shall we still press the switch (12 V to the diagnostic connector) while kicking ?...I read in your post, that the 12 V to the diagnostic connector only powered the fuel pump not the ECU..but is it true ? 2. On the older TR Ossas..Nigel Birkett suggested installed 9 V battery to the capacitor behind the headlamp and also connect to momentary switch to energize the capacitor with 9 V battery for the ECU..As far as you know how much is this different to teh original Ossa easy start box installed on the explorer ? 3. Even with the 12V easy start, my bike still hard to start..I suspect the ECU is not properly energized, even i repeatedley use the kill switch to activate it...Do you know how the check if ECU is fully energized before kick starting it ?..so the ossa easy start is working (or not) Thank you for your attention VOLCANO island

I decided to make my own longer kick starter..using aerospace 7075 aluminum, and basically "carved" it using saw and files..it work well.. but as you can notice it had several adjustment to clear the subframe bolts..

Thanks !, i will check with them

I have seen an S3 electric start modification on the S3 website.for montesa 4Rt any model..also an utube video...I emailed the S3 info...after one month no reply. Does anybody knows who sells such modification Kit ???..I am interested to buy

Does anybody know if Gasgas pro kick starter will fit on Ossa ?..it looks like will fit..

My weight is 122 lb, sometime I have trouble kick starting my Ossa Explorer...the kick start do not give enough leverage..too short and slippery. Has anybody know replacement kick start from other bike or custom manufacturer that is has longer arm ?..and fit the Ossa kick start stub ?

Jonnyc21, I have a question, when you check for spark, do you have to have all electrical components installed ?..I have been kicking the kick start without the fuel tank installed, means the fuel pump is electrically disconnected...Also how does a working fuel pump soumd when connected to a 12 V source ?..does it whir for while then stop ?

Thanks Jonnyc21..I will tried that joining the two outside wire together..so basically grounded the Red/white wire...Still no spark on my 4RT...any other suggestion ? Now only component not tested is the ECU..

I have similar problem with my 2005 4RT..the bike have been in storage for over a year...wont start..No Spark!!..change spark plug..still no spark..Checked grounding, kill switch..Coil..etc..with multimeter..everything OK..Next check resistance on 32P connector and alternator/pulser according to the manual..all resistance number are corect..Now when I checked the Tilt/bank sensor there is No contuinity between all pins..at straight position and more than 65 degree...Is that the way to check it ?..how do we check if the bank sensor is good or bad ?..I read that you can by pass the bank angle sensor by joining the two outside wire ( green and wihite ?)..How do you do that ? Thanks

Thanks I will try to get it

I own 2014 Ossa explorer which I used it for difficult track trail riding. It has standard 10 tooth front sprocket. Do anybody know where I can get an 11 tooth front sprocket ?. Most mail order shop only stock 9 or 10 tooth. Or is it the same as some other bike brand ? Thanks

Lotus, I have tried your method, attaching momentarily 12 V power to the power pins of the diagnostic cable. On my 2014 explorer. This will run the fuel pump (you can hear that) before it stop due working fuel presssure is reached. Then when this happens, the bike will start even on the first kick. I was wondering why Ossa did not do this on all the bikes, instead of playing around with AAA capacitor solution. Anyway, I am using this method of starting now. Lotus, I was wondering mow, shall I detach /disconect the AAA capacitor box now .? Or shall I leave them there .?

Could you send us picture as everything installed on your bike ?

Is this 12 V power LiPo battery which you connected to the diagnostic connector ?

I had a 2008 T-Ride, I have been riding it eversince and its been fulfilling my expectation.. The main reason I bought it is because I am a light person (130 lb, 5'7"), so the T-Ride bike size fit me better than a full size enduro bike. Its relatively light weight bike for an electric start 4 stroke !. Of course a CRF 230F or a TTR also small, but they are not a lightweight bike. When it was new the T-Ride weight nearly 100 Kg without fuel. Then the smog stuff removed, blinkers, Horns etc removed, then it weight about 98 kg. Now it weight about 95 kg since I change some of the heavy steel part such as Steering stem axle (2008 is steel, 2009 is aluminium alloy), all wheel axle (steel replaced by titanium), Lead acid Battery into lithium ion stuff. During the early years, I had a lot of help from this forum to de-restrict the bike, For some reason the T-ride had an above average amount of anti-smog, anti-noise equipments. There is a standard Air Injection from Yamaha need to disconnect, Exhaust tip restrictor grind away, ECU need to be drilled, and cable cut, Catalytic converter in the head pipe need to be removed. You need to buy at least a pilot jet from del ortho to adjust the carb to the new state of tune. I dont know if anything else I need to remove, I heard there is an inlet restrictor after the carb.. Is That true ? Now the ride.. so far I have been very happy, I rode strictly off-road, and the bike excells in the track/trails around island of Java, Indonesia. Its mostly steep technical slippery and muddy single track, with tight turns which the bike is really good at this condition. I change the flywheel into 2009 heavier flywheel, and the front sprocket to 11 teeth, which helps to reduce the stalling. I install also a Hydraulic clutch to lighten up the clutch pull.. Ok whats next ?.. I think the bike is a keeper, but I wanted to improve it a little bit more. I wanted to replace the stainless steel Muffler, its heavy (nearly 2.7 kg !) into something less restrictive and lighter. Any ideas ?.. The T-ride is the only bike I ever own (7 total), that if you weigh the front wheel and rear wheel independently, the scale in the front wheel is a few kilo heavier, all other bike usually the scale in the rear wheel is heavier by a few kilo. Dont know why, but I guess this contribute to the nice tighthandling along with the steep rake angle. Suspension ? since I am light and I dont do high speed jumps, the suspension is right on the money. The front fork I did reduce the preload a little by cutting the plastic preload. Viva T-Ride !.

Ok, so Exhaust Muffler is a Back Box...I dont have a SY250F.. but it seems like the muffler is made from aluminium, So if it breaks at the fitting/bracket two times.. then something wrong with the mounting... either Engine Vibration have no where to be dampened or there are internal stresses due to the thermal expansion being held back bay the muffler brackets. Aluminium have larger thermal coefficients and more prone to Metal Fatigue.. Changing it to Titanium will only improve very little. But checking your bracket mounting and probably puttinga all bracket in a rubber grommets will help more.

I have a 250f T-Ride, what is a back box in a SY 250 f ?, show me some pics, Maybe I can help, I have made several Titanium parts for my T-ride replacing steel axles, large bolts etc. I am a Aero Structure Engineer, so I understand various grade of Titanium better than most people.

Hi Sam, Did you ever got that heavier flywheel ?, I also got 2008 T-Ride, and as you said, stall quite easily . Please let me know where to get it, Is it the same as American Product Stealthy Offroad for WR ? Also any suggestion to smooth out the fork action ?.

Thanks alot arnaux, Viva Scorpa !!, I will definitely email you.

dear loonal, Are you sure that the difference in Dyno come from ECU. ?, In the document "optimisation of T-Ride" it tell clearly "All these modification is for racing purpose only". I am definetly not racing, only Enduro riding in extreeme terrain. So I did the stuff that makes sense to me, The air injection, exhaust plug and Air intake modification make whole sense to me, and it runs quite well after these modification without ECU. Sufficient for my purpose (usually I run only up to 8000 rpm). Yes The engine is a bit hesitant in the 3000-4000 rpm range. But after I did change the needle position and change the pilot jet to u33. It run great !. If I need something from the engine, not high rpm power,but I need more bottom end torque, so it doesnt stall as easily. But maybe thats a flyhwheel problem. Could you explain baout the procedure again, Drill the hole, 10 mm from each edge, then cut the orange wire, and ground it ?, means connect to the frame ? Do you know if the process is reversible is I dont like the result ? Could you email me your Dyno result ? (alisjahb@yahoo.com) I have the black Domino throtle tube in my T-ride, I thought its the slow one, white is the fast one ?, is that true ?

Thanks Loonal for the Carb info I will open the carburator and set the needle in the middle clip. I suspect now is in the highest clip position, thus its lean setting. Could you explain to me what did you do for the throtle ?, did you change the throtle tube with a smaller diameter for slower throttle ?Which brand did you use ? I did modify the exhaust restrictor, Air Injection but not ECU. I simply did not have tye nerve to drill hole in the ECU. Also I dont need the moor to run more than 10,000 rpm. Do you know if T-Ride and WRF 250 have the same ECU ?, if it does then the Wire disconnect mod found in many WRF forums should work on the T-Ride too ? For the pictures, I guess you could only attach/post picture location /website, but not the picture itself.

Hi Everyone, Yes I have a 2008 Scorpa T-Ride which now I had for 5 months. I am in Indonesia, where the trails is jungle tight, wet ,slippery and steep. I specially order the T-Ride for this condition where the standard Enduro bike is just too heavy and powerful. So far its fulfill my expectation, The T-Ride is easy to menouver in the tight stuff, the supension is just right with 200 mm travel, and the traction is awesome. The electric start is just so helpful, especially after a spill. The Fuel consumption is also very good, I can ride for 120Km+ without any doubt. Its important in here since fuel pump is scare in the trails Modification I did, of course taking exhaust restrictor, Air Injection and change to Hydraulic clutch !, Yes, the original clutch pull is too heavy, I install a Magura unit. I wish Scorpa listen and made avaiable SY250FR Hydraulic clutch unit. Thing I dont like ?, Its still a heavy bike !, at 96 kg without fuel (thats what I got measured) is heavy, My KDX200 weigh 103 kg, and my Montesa 4RT is 73 kg. I expect the T-Ride will be in the 85 kg range. The potential of weigh reduction is there, I have replaced all wheel axles to titanium also swing arm axle. The stainless steel exhaust is also next to go, I wish Scorpa offer the SY250FR aluminium one fot T-ride. Manufacturing problems ?, the Aibox to Filter seal is faulty, and dust will leak pass filter, its a sloppy airbox manufactring, I have modfied it. The thortle cable routing is not the best, need to carefully route and check everytime you remove the tank, if not its going to have extra friction. Sam, could you share with me the Carb jetting modification ?, mine still stock since I cant get Del ortho jets part in here, only Keihin and Mikuni AA

Hi all, I think I should share my experience to the Forum regarding the topic I started last month. Now my 4RT runs fine, I have great fun using it in the wet and slipeery section around here. Its really works !!. The Montesa I got, I think its a standard Eroupean Version, comes with all regulatory accessories, various Lights, Turn signal Blinker, Horn even rear view mirrors!!. Apparently due probably for the same reason, the bike also come with various restictors. There are three restictors in the exhaust system alone, obviously noise control related. And there are two others, one is an air inlet restrictor and a ECU Software restictor. The last one is I found out to be quite dominant in the performance of the bike. To take out the ECU S/W restictor you have to disconnect a specific wire pin from the Accesory power connector. The instruction to do this can be obtained from the motorgas website (Thanks Martin!). Once this is disconnected, you can feel the difference ! Apparently the connection or disconnection of this pin change a specific ECU S/W program Map from one to another. Most people maybe dont know this since they took out the whole accessory Lighting Harness right from beginning , which in effect does disconnect the ECU map wire pin. My only wish, I wish Montesa include this information or instruction in the already excellent owner manual.

Thanks every body, I never thought about restrictors . Why Montesa did that ?. Or at least they should have shown the procedure in the manuals. I think that could be the problem. The bike is brand new still in original crate, I bought it from a dealer in France, and I Guess, he did not prepare the bike to use since its going for another shipment anyway. Will definetely try open the restrictor tonite !!, Looking forward to try this puppy this weekend. It is rainy season here, everything is slipery and slimmy. Let see if this thing better than my Sherco.

I recently got a brand new 2005 Montesa 4RT. It could be around 5 Months since it leave the factory and shipped to my country Indonesia. I Just started it (following all Manual procdure)and it run at idle perfectly. The problem is, it run very poorly when the accelerator is pulled . It feels like not enough fuel, (or too much fuel ? ). The manual says that it might be the TPS (throttle position sensor) is shorted out. As you know the TPS is part of the ECU.So I cant check any wiring. Anything else shall I check ?, Vaccum line clogged ?, Injector dirty ?. I have not opened anything yet. Thanks