Sorry to bring this subject up again, but...

 

I have relatively small feet for a bloke, just size 8 boots.

 

I like to stand on the rear of the pegs.

(to weight the back of the bike for more grip and to lighten the front of what is supposedly a front heavy bike).

 

If I do, I can't reach the brake pedal, which means I have to have my feet further forward than I like, to use the rear brake.

 

I know there are shorter alloy brake pedals available (expensive ones at that), but I have read that they are tucked in.

I would hate to purchase one only to find that I then have to hug the frame with my boot to operate the pedal.

I like to stand towards the outside of the pegs for better manoeuvrability.

 

I have read that the Sherco pedal fits well and works better.

 

Is it shorter than standard but not tucked in like the alloy jobs?

What year / model Sherco one fits the 2015 4RT?

 

Any tips?

 

 

 

 

I bought a short alloy one & couldn't get on with it

Went back to the original one

I ride like you, so just moved foot forward

The short one was almost impossible to find

Sorry to bring this subject up again, but...

 

I have relatively small feet for a bloke, just size 8 boots.

 

I like to stand on the rear of the pegs.

(to weight the back of the bike for more grip and to lighten the front of what is supposedly a front heavy bike).

 

If I do, I can't reach the brake pedal, which means I have to have my feet further forward than I like, to use the rear brake.

 

I know there are shorter alloy brake pedals available (expensive ones at that), but I have read that they are tucked in.

I would hate to purchase one only to find that I then have to hug the frame with my boot to operate the pedal.

I like to stand towards the outside of the pegs for better manoeuvrability.

 

I have read that the Sherco pedal fits well and works better.

 

Is it shorter than standard but not tucked in like the alloy jobs?

What year / model Sherco one fits the 2015 4RT?

 

Any tips?

 

At the risk of attack from Nigel, I solved the problem completely using the Clake set up so rarely use the foot pedal.I have the dual control unit with the foot pedal retained. I have Raptor hangers and pegs that are about15mm further rearset from standard and tend to ride more on the balls of my feet, so works for me !!

 

I have a friend that wanted his closer for the same resion, though it tucked it in a small amount he was happy with it in the end.  

 

He took the stock and flexed the folding portion of the brake in and bending the back portion of the tip tell it held in place.  It put it back about 3/4" and tucked it in about 1/4" or so I believe. 

 

Hope that makes sense...

That Clake setup is very interesting, relating to the MTB, rear brake lever on the handlebar has much more delicate control.

I do like the sound of a finger operated rear brake.

But...

What about the balance of clutch and brake?

I can understand it working nicely to stop endos, but what about control in...for example...slow full lock turns up and down a steep camber.

It is also very pricey!

johnnyc...

Sorry pal, I can't picture what you mean.

any chance of a picture?

I have thought about cutting the lever shorter and having the end welded back on.

Good idea or not?

I have size 8s too (about average for a male of my generation?). My 4RT came with what I think is an Apico pedal which may be a bit less exposed than the standard but gives enough leverage and easily reached.

I ride with my instep on the rest and lift my toes, as it were, to put the weight on to the back of the rest to get grip if necessary. I then have no need to lift my foot to reach the brake, but it should be possible to get used to doing so - we all need to lift the other foot off to change gear in a section, as is occasionally done, after all.

You'll never get a trials bike absolutely perfect in this regard. I'm sure an ergonomist would be aghast at our set ups.

I have not heard of a dual control device can you give us more info Oz T?

I also find the standard brake pedal is a little to far away so I cable tie it back on it self and bend the front edge back, makes a big difference.

I have size 8s too (about average for a male of my generation?). My 4RT came with what I think is an Apico pedal which may be a bit less exposed than the standard but gives enough leverage and easily reached.

I ride with my instep on the rest and lift my toes, as it were, to put the weight on to the back of the rest to get grip if necessary. I then have no need to lift my foot to reach the brake, but it should be possible to get used to doing so - we all need to lift the other foot off to change gear in a section, as is occasionally done, after all.

You'll never get a trials bike absolutely perfect in this regard. I'm sure an ergonomist would be aghast at our set ups.

I have not heard of a dual control device can you give us more info Oz T?

Hi 2s4s,

I'm a little like you, I ride on my instep but nearer the front of it than the middle, I do roll back onto the rear of the footpeg to weight it.

But my boot does not reach the lever.

I understand we all lift the foot, gear etc, but gear changes are not usually at crucial moments like using the rear brake when weighting the rear end.

I nearly endo'd yesterday because my boot missed the lever by a few millimetres.

I know a bike will never be perfect, but my pedal could be lot better than it is.

 

As for the dual control thingy...www.clake.com.au/

 

Thanks for the ideas.

Duggan.

 

Spot on.

 

I have just tried that myself.

I didn't strap it all the way back, because it looked a little tucked in.

I strapped it about 1/3 to 1/2 way back.

It is nigh on perfect.

 

A brilliant idea, should have thought of it myself.

 

My foot is now a little further back on the peg, how I like it, and the pedal is right under the front of my boot.

 

Simple and free!

 

Thanks chap.

 

JohnnyC,

 

Reading your post again after having done the Duggan suggestion, I think that is exactly what you meant, eh?

 

I can't believe the difference it makes.

 

Its given me much more confidence that the brake is going to be there when I need it.

I don't have to keep looking down anymore to see if it is with in reach, and I don't have to keep shifting my foot forward.

 

Like they say, the simple fixes are often the best.

 

JohnnyC,

 

Reading your post again after having done the Duggan suggestion, I think that is exactly what you meant, eh?

 

I can't believe the difference it makes.

 

Its given me much more confidence that the brake is going to be there when I need it.

I don't have to keep looking down anymore to see if it is with in reach, and I don't have to keep shifting my foot forward.

 

Like they say, the simple fixes are often the best.

 

 

Yes this is what my friend did, however he forced a large round punch through the center of the folding portion of the peddle to open it up a bit more so it wasn't as tucked in.

Edited May 28, 201610 yr by jonnyc21

That Clake setup is very interesting, relating to the MTB, rear brake lever on the handlebar has much more delicate control.

I do like the sound of a finger operated rear brake.

But...

What about the balance of clutch and brake?

I can understand it working nicely to stop endos, but what about control in...for example...slow full lock turns up and down a steep camber.

It is also very pricey!

Hi TB, I see you have the website link, I haven't checked lately but there was a good trials demo video on there with Matt Newlan.

I have used the unit for last 8 years and has been the best thing I have had on a trials bike. When correctly set up slow full lock turns etc are one of the main advantages of the unit, I find it much smoother than using the foot brake against the clutch.

If you would like more detailed feedback pm me and I will share my experience with you.