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'09 Sherco 320 4T Rebuild Blog


proper
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Project started with this in 2017:
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Bike has been taken apart, the following has been done:
- Powdercoated frame
- Replaced rocker arm
- Lapped the valves
- Polished the intake and exhaust ports
- Adjusted the valves
- Painted the engine (brush + heat gun)
- New exhaust header pipe
- Polished the exhaust silencer (Doesn't deserve that name)
- New gaskets
- New red spark plug cap
- New iridium spark plug
- New OKO 24mm carb, 105 main, 42 pilot
- New red air & idle mixture srews
- Cleaned and greased all the linkage bearings
- Painted the rear shock (Motip white wheelpaint)
- New red rear sprocket 41T and bolts
- New chain (Splatshop said red, but is was actually neon red)
- New front sprocket 10T
- New red chain tensioner S3
- Polished swingarm
- New red snail cams and nut
- New wheelbearings
- New rear spacer hub
- New side stand, the old stronger steel version.
- New red footpegs
- Polished bash plate
- New plastics. (all plastics)
- New graphics
- Painted the tank (Motip white wheelpaint)
- New Galfer 223 red front brake pads.
- New fork seals 
- New fork top/bottom bushes
- Polished fork stanchions
- Repaired black fork tubes scratching with epoxy
- New fork oil, 5wt
- New red fatbar 5.0" handlebars
- New red forged clutch / brake fully adjustable levers
- New red master cylinder covers
- New Domino grips
- New slow action throttle
- New stickers

Bike was exchanged for a Beta Rev3, for which I originally paid about 1000 GBP.
Total investment in parts during two years about 1500 GBP.
Amount of hours invested: too much.

Still, this is way more fun than buying a well cared after used one. This is now my bike. I know every part, know how to reach and service those parts. The bike has been modified to my liking, and even when some things can still be improved, it is now time to ride it. There's probably still some development to do with the carb and suspension, will keep you posted.

Vincent



 

Edited by proper
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48 minutes ago, section swept said:

Great looking machine?Mr Proper from the land of Gouda cheese, you have done?‍? an outstanding job ?I like the way you work, research ?and resolve issues?

Thank you Mister Section Swept from the land of Robin Hood! 

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Some observations after riding it around the neigbourhood for a while:
- Two kicks without choke or throttle and it ran.
- It run for a minute, nice steady idle.
- Applied a tiny bit of throttle, and it instantly died. 
- It was a bitch to start after that.
- I need to workout more.
- Closed the fuel tap,
- No choke, no throttle, a few kicks and it ran again.
- Opened the fuel tap.
- Let it idle for a minute, tiny bit of throttle, it dies.
- This repeated several times.
- I really, really need to workout more.
- Adjusted air mix and idle. 
- Gave some more initial throttle, and it took on revs. Ran perfectly after that. 
- Takes on revs really easy. Clutch slips in fourth on half throttle.
- It died later on while engine braking
- Increased idle.

It's actually easy to kick, with the piston back in just beyond top position afer every kick.
The trick with the fuel switch works great, essential solution learned from kicking the **** out of my original '86 Honda XL350R.

Tried to open the chocke a litle bit while idling, but it instantly lowered the revs.

Need to analyze the behaviour
- It would be nice if the choke can be used.
- It would be nice if it doesn't die on a bit of throttle while still being cold.

Maybe those clutch springs need to go back. Maybe keep them out on the first few sessions, as a life saver. 

Edit: Been reading up on bogs from idle, will try to move the needle up one notch, and adjust the air screw a bit more careful.
The choke seems to be designed for 2stroke operation (yikes!), and is useless on a thumper.   

 

Edited by proper
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Been tinkering with this Excel sheet. 
First setup is current.
Second setup is raised needle. Doesn't do anything for the first 1/4 turn of throttle. (Dashed green line = relative change to current setup)
Third setup is increased pilot jet. (Dashed red line) It does the opposite of raised needle. It ONLY increases fuel mix the first 1/4 turn of throttle.

Will go for the third option. 

 

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The carb tuning manual specifically states: Never change more than one thing at once. So I changed the Pilot to 45, and moved the needle up. 

My OKO runs the original Keihin slide and top-end assembly. To my surprise, the needle clip was at position 2, so I moved it to the middle position for no good reason at all but my curiosity.

More test runs today. 

For those who frequently work their carbs: how do you prevent the mess and smell? There's quite some fuel in the bowl, which only seems to come out when you open here up. Maybe a large bowl filled with granular absorbents? 
What I do now, is use cleaning cloths to absorb the fuel, and put them in a plastic bag with a loose knot. Cloths get added to the bag until work is finished, and the bag gets a tight knot and goes outside. 

Must say: the smell works wonders keeping the missus and kids out of the workshop. 



 

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