If the big end bearing is knackered then both the con rod and crank pin will be as well, they are designed to be replaced with the bearing. If you intend to keep the bike for 3 or 4 years do the job properly and buy a rod kit, if you don't then you will have it in bits again before long.

yeah,

as said, i will go for the conrod kit, so now i am expecting the crank 'pin' ? to be there as well.

i shall stop moaning now, the initial cos was just over

Did you get the crank pin with the kit then?

As for the flywheel torque setting, I know sherco should be done up to 100Nm but can't help with the exact figure for your bike, you could try scribing a line on both the nut and thread that way up should get it to the same torque as it is at the moment but chances are its been off before and not torqued up to the correct amount anyway.

Have you tried ringing Gas Gas they might be able to give you the correct value.

Here is another two stroke building webpage for you to look at www.macdizzy.com, I think you'll find it usefull.

Cheers

Chris

Excellent,

Cheers Chris,

had a really good read of the other site, the bottem end rebuild article wasvery helpful,

and yes you do get the pin in the kit, but i dont have the kit yet on order from GasGas

BUT

-i have the magneto back after its rewire!!

Case split,

and crank now at the shop, having the rod kit put on and truing was

Curious, How hard is it to split the case and replace the bottom end bearings on a

Gasser, does it take special tools?

Its fairly common practice to remove some of the bolts from the clutch but not normally that way. Either...

a) refit ALL bolts... more expense unless you have them or

remove another bolt so that they are spaced equally.

There are four springs in atm.

i havnt taken the other two out,...that pic was before i took the clutch apart. there are only four springs in there, quite even distribution. in the pic you can just see the spring of the forth one at the bottom.

Regarding splitting the case,

--i used a flywheel puller to....remove the flywheel cost about

i meant knock out the bearing not know it out ....

Thank You Matt,

That is very helpfull

Your missing clutch springs would have probably been taken out to allow the clutch to slip a bit more, it makes it easier for beginers learning to ride.

yeah i thought that,

just thought the ease of the hydrolic clutch meant you wouldnt have to remove the springs.

see how the clutch copes with the newly beefed engine !

My dad has decided to clean my casing while im away....

..

hmm..... i appreciate it, but now the 'tube' that the selector forks runs in has fallen out

i have pictures and stuff, so is it a problem? ie. its shimmed in ?

or can i just pop it back in?

Thought id get some wider advice before i go back and assess the damage !! lol

Right,

Quite a big update to come,

I will include pictures, but need to get them off my mobile as digi camera is broke !!

There is one concern that i have....well two acually.

1 - the piston, the orginal one is 'windowed' meaning there is a window in the side so that i can see the little end bearing,

--- my new piston does not have this new window, IS this a problem ?

My train of thought is that, becuase the intake is not into the crankcase and is into the bore, Could two things happen with my new piston?

A.....- my little end bearing does not get lubricated due to no window?

b..... my brother tells me that windowed pistons help with crankcase pressures, and if a windowed piston is std. then not having one could blow my gaskets !!!

ive just spent nearly

OH

btw,

ive had the bore replated, looks good, but the surface is pitted, i mean there is pitting on the top of the bore and the actual barrel where the chrome is.

Is this normal ? is it ok??????

Thanks Matt